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The diverse components and decoration of peasant costumes in the north and south of Russia are the focus of this examination of the materials, stitches, and colors of textile arts. The identification of the wearer’s stage of life, village, kinship, and local traditions is analyzed through the sartorial elements and embroidered designs of garments and headdresses. Other textile work, especially embroidery on towels and bed linens, with repeated patterns and stylized motifs, shows formal similarities with designs on wooden distaffs, suggesting shared historical origins of certain forms. The essay emphasizes both the conservative nature of peasant clothing and the adaptability of textile arts to new materials, techniques, and functions.
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See Ivan Bilibin, “Narodnoe tvorchestvo russkogo severa,” in Mir iskusstva (St. Petersburg: 1904), vol. 12, no. 6, pp. 267-302 (album of photographs) and 303-18 (text).
See M. N. Shmeleva and L. V. Tazikhina, “Ukrasheniia russkoi krest’ianskoi odezhdy,” in Russkie: Istoriko-etnograficheskii atlas (Moscow: 1970), pp. 89-123, for a systematic summary of peasant costume; L. N. Molotova and N. N. Sosnina, Russkii narodnyi kostium (Moscow: 1984); I. Ia. Boguslavskaia, Russkoe narodnoe iskusstvo (Moscow, 1984); and the State Historical Museum handbook, Russkii narodnyi kostium (Moscow: 1982).
Isabel Florence Hapgood, Russian Rambles (Boston and New York: 1895, reprint New York, 1970) p. 256.
See Efimova and Belogorskaia, Russkaia vyshivka i kruzhevo, pp. 11-19, plates 1-28. Stasov, Russkii Narodnyi Ornament: shit’e, tkani, kruzheva one of the first studies of embroidered ornament, covered historical development, regional styles, and four basic types of motifs: geometrical, forms from the plant world, animals and birds, and human figures.
Shmeleva and Tazikhina, “Ukrasheniia russkoi krest’ianskoi odezhdy,” p. 94.
Shmeleva and Tazikhina, “Ukrasheniia russkoi krest’ianskoi odezhdy,” p. 93. The “white-eye” style meant the following arrangement of threads: one red, three white, two· green, three white, one red; the “red-eye” pattern was three red, two white, four red, three green, two red, three white.
Shmeleva and Tazikhina, “Ukrasheniia russkoi krest’ianskoi odezhdy,” p. 106.
Zharnikova, “Some Archaic Motifs,” pp. 3, 5. See G. S. Maslova, Ornament russkoi narodnoi vyshivki, kak istoriko-etnograficheskii istochnik (Moscow: 1978).
Kalmykova, Narodnaia vyshivka tverskoi zemli, pp. 31-32. On earlier embroidery, see T. Manushina, Khudothestvennoe shit’e drevnei Rusi v sobranii Zagorskogo muzeia (Moscow: 1983).
Efimova and Belogorskaia, Russkaia vyshivka i kruzbevo, pp. 22-23 and nos. 112-115, 121.
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The diverse components and decoration of peasant costumes in the north and south of Russia are the focus of this examination of the materials, stitches, and colors of textile arts. The identification of the wearer’s stage of life, village, kinship, and local traditions is analyzed through the sartorial elements and embroidered designs of garments and headdresses. Other textile work, especially embroidery on towels and bed linens, with repeated patterns and stylized motifs, shows formal similarities with designs on wooden distaffs, suggesting shared historical origins of certain forms. The essay emphasizes both the conservative nature of peasant clothing and the adaptability of textile arts to new materials, techniques, and functions.
All Time | Past Year | Past 30 Days | |
---|---|---|---|
Abstract Views | 1284 | 384 | 20 |
Full Text Views | 289 | 12 | 1 |
PDF Views & Downloads | 118 | 35 | 4 |