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Dress and Dress Code in Medieval Cairo
A Mamluk Obsession
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In this book, Doris Behrens-Abouseif responds to the Mamluk chroniclers whose loquacity regarding clothing matters demands our attention. Using a multiplicity of sources including chronicles, European and Muslim travel narratives, popular storytelling, legal treatises, literature, and poetry, Behrens-Abouseif delves into the details of Mamluk dress. Whether as a vehicle for the sultanate’s self-representation both internationally and domestically or as an expression of religious and social identities, status and wealth, female assertion, urban culture, and artistic creativity, clothing personified the broad Mamluk social spectrum. Replete with colorful anecdotes and copious illustrations,
Dress and Dress Code in Medieval Cairo offers a lively and comprehensive study of this fascinating topic.
Doris Behrens-Abouseif (Professor Emerita at SOAS), is an art and cultural historian who has many publications on Islamic culture, architecture, urbanism and the decorative arts of the Mamluk and other periods of Islamic Egypt and Syria and the Arab world in general.
Acknowledgement
List of Figures
Note to the Reader
1 Introduction: Subject, Sources, and Terminology
1 Studies
2 Material Evidence
3 Archival Sources
4 Narrative Sources
5 Visual Sources
6 Terminology
2 Religion, Traditions, and Customs
1 Religion
2 Sufism
3 Dreams
4 Urban Customs
5 Manners and Rituals
3 The Sultanate and Its Historians
1 The Sultans’ Perspective
2 The Historians’ Perspective
4 The Designer Sultans (1250–1380s)
1 Al-Ẓāhir Baybars (r. 1260–77)
2 Al-Manṣūr Qalāwūn (r. 1278–90)
3 Al-Ashraf Khalīl (1290–3)
4 Al-Nāṣir Muḥammad (1293–4, 1299–1309, 1310–41)
5 Al-Ashraf Shaʿbān (r. 1363–77)
6 Al-Ṣāliḥ Hājjī (r. 1389–90)
5 The Circassian Revision (1380s–1517) and the Ottoman Termination of the Mamluk Dress Code
1 Al-Ẓāhir Barqūq (r. 1382–9, 1390–99)
2 Al-Nāṣir Faraj (r. 1399–1405)
3 Al-Ashraf Barsbāy (r. 1422–38)
4 Al-Ẓāhir Jaqmaq (r. 1438–53)
5 Al-Ẓāhir Khushqadam (r. 1461–7)
6 Al-Ashraf Qāyṭbāy (r. 1468–96)
7 Al-Ashraf Qānṣuh Al-Ghawrī (r. 1501–16)
8 The End of the Mamluk Dress Code
6 The Khilʿa: Institution and Ritual
7 The Khilʿa as a Garment
1 The Caliph and the Sultan
2 The Military Establishment in the Bahri Period
3 The Military Establishment in the Circassian Period
4 The Civilian Dignitaries
5 The Kāmiliyya: A Circassian Innovation
8 The Dār al-Ṭirāz and Mamluk Art
1 Production
2 Administration
3 Tirāz and Mamluk Art
9 Dress and Dress Code of the Mamluk Aristocracy
1 The Sultan (Fig. 16)
2 The Mamlūks
3 The Headdress
10 The Dress Code of the Civilian Elite and the Commoners
1 The Civilian Elite
2 The Sufis
3 The Commoners
11 Women’s Clothing
1 The Palace
2 The Street
3 Wardrobe Miscellenia
4 Fashions
5 Regulation and Transgression
6 European Eyewitnesses
12 Mamluk Dress between Text and Image
1 Artefacts
13 Social Order and Mobility
14 Industry, Trade, and Assets
1 The Markets of Cairo
2 Hoards, Assets, and Security
15 Epilogue
Bibliography
Index
List of Figures
Note to the Reader
1 Introduction: Subject, Sources, and Terminology
1 Studies
2 Material Evidence
3 Archival Sources
4 Narrative Sources
5 Visual Sources
6 Terminology
2 Religion, Traditions, and Customs
1 Religion
2 Sufism
3 Dreams
4 Urban Customs
5 Manners and Rituals
3 The Sultanate and Its Historians
1 The Sultans’ Perspective
2 The Historians’ Perspective
4 The Designer Sultans (1250–1380s)
1 Al-Ẓāhir Baybars (r. 1260–77)
2 Al-Manṣūr Qalāwūn (r. 1278–90)
3 Al-Ashraf Khalīl (1290–3)
4 Al-Nāṣir Muḥammad (1293–4, 1299–1309, 1310–41)
5 Al-Ashraf Shaʿbān (r. 1363–77)
6 Al-Ṣāliḥ Hājjī (r. 1389–90)
5 The Circassian Revision (1380s–1517) and the Ottoman Termination of the Mamluk Dress Code
1 Al-Ẓāhir Barqūq (r. 1382–9, 1390–99)
2 Al-Nāṣir Faraj (r. 1399–1405)
3 Al-Ashraf Barsbāy (r. 1422–38)
4 Al-Ẓāhir Jaqmaq (r. 1438–53)
5 Al-Ẓāhir Khushqadam (r. 1461–7)
6 Al-Ashraf Qāyṭbāy (r. 1468–96)
7 Al-Ashraf Qānṣuh Al-Ghawrī (r. 1501–16)
8 The End of the Mamluk Dress Code
6 The Khilʿa: Institution and Ritual
7 The Khilʿa as a Garment
1 The Caliph and the Sultan
2 The Military Establishment in the Bahri Period
3 The Military Establishment in the Circassian Period
4 The Civilian Dignitaries
5 The Kāmiliyya: A Circassian Innovation
8 The Dār al-Ṭirāz and Mamluk Art
1 Production
2 Administration
3 Tirāz and Mamluk Art
9 Dress and Dress Code of the Mamluk Aristocracy
1 The Sultan (Fig. 16)
2 The Mamlūks
3 The Headdress
10 The Dress Code of the Civilian Elite and the Commoners
1 The Civilian Elite
2 The Sufis
3 The Commoners
11 Women’s Clothing
1 The Palace
2 The Street
3 Wardrobe Miscellenia
4 Fashions
5 Regulation and Transgression
6 European Eyewitnesses
12 Mamluk Dress between Text and Image
1 Artefacts
13 Social Order and Mobility
14 Industry, Trade, and Assets
1 The Markets of Cairo
2 Hoards, Assets, and Security
15 Epilogue
Bibliography
Index
Medievalists in general and specifically of the Muslim world. Scholars and students of Middle-Eastern social history, culture, material culture and art.