General Index
‘Afife Kadın, wife of Sultan Mehmed IV
coffee allocations of
71
“Barbaria” (as descriptor of the Romanian Principalities)
429, 432, 454
Abdülaziz, Sultan
81, 93
Abdülhamid I, Sultan
315n, 317
Abdülhamid II, Sultan
81, 85
Abdülmecid, Sultan (1839–1861)
Banquets and Europan-style food during the reign of
93
Kitchens at Beşiktaş Palace during the reign of
80
Abtsdorf, Rom. Mănăștur, Hung. Kolozsmonostor
Water mills at
276
Ádám, Lázár, baker in the city of Cluj (Transylvania)
Bakery of the Saint Elisabeth almshouse and
281
Adrianople, Edirne
Imports of okra from
87
Reference to ~ in Ami Boué’s work
464
Aegean, Sea
6, 11, 462
Olive cultivation and
39, 47
Viticulture in
35
Agârbiceanu, Ion, Romanian writer
The myth of Jewish drink-poisoning in the work of
500, 500n, 506
Ahmed II, Sultan
And food allocations in the Divan
57, 59, 60, 60n, 61
Ahmed III, Sultan
And food allocations at the palace
60, 61
And the Ottoman monopoly on (Wallachian) Romanian grain exports
314
And the use of nahils at circumcision ceremonies
440n
‘Aispurh’, see Ausbruch (Austrian wine)
And imports of wine to Oltenia (in Wallachia)
322
Aiud (Hung. Enyed, Ger. Straßburg am Mieresch), city in central Transylvania
And expulsion of Jews in 1843
498
Wine-making in
165
Akkerman, see Bilhorod-Dnistrovskîi, Cetatea Albǎ
‘Akkerman wine’
504
Alba Iulia (Hung. Gyulafehérvár, Ger. Weissenburg), city in Transylvania
And 17th-c food purchases for the princely court
20, 301
And early Transylvanian railways
420
And official banquets
174
And purchases of oil for Wallachian nobility
325
And wine production
165
Alecsandri, Vasile, Romanian poet
And coffee-drinking in Moldavia
121–2
And the myth of Jewish drink poisoners
484, 484n, 485, 485n, 498, 498n, 499n, 506, 507
Aleppo, town in Syria
‘Aleppo pepper’ in Transylvanian cuisine
105
Alexandria, Orthodox Patriarchate of
228n
Gifts of food to Patriarchs in the Romanian Principalities
226
Alonso de Herrera, Gabriel, Spanish agriculturist and writer
352
Alparéth (Hung.) (Ger. Alberecht), village in central Transylvania
Grain mills at (16th c)
274, 274n, 275, 275n, 277
Also Torja, see Turia de Jos
Aman, Dimitrie, Wallachian merchant
334, 316, 316n
Amasya, city in the northern Turkey
And exports of apples to Istanbul
86
And exports of dry okra to Istanbul
87
And bread imports in Transylvania
103
America (Central America)
3, 15, 20
And herbal remedies
368n, 375
And the adoption of turkey at the Ottoman palace
84
And the introduction of haricot beans into Europe
83
And the introduction of potato to the Ottoman Empire
86–7
And the introduction of spices into Ottoman cuisine
86
coffee-houses in
143
and the production of cochineal dye
365
Amphissa (Salona), town in Greece
As olive-growing region
66
Anatolia, region of Turkey
10, 10n, 27, 34, 76, 82n, 109, 218n
And the use of honey, pekmez and sultanas as sweeteners
108
Introduction of butterfat into
46
Mediaeval food culture in
36, 36n, 37n, 49, 51n
Olive cultivation in
42
Production of nan-ı nohud (chickpea bread) in
60, 60n
production of rice in
304
Andrinople (Fr.), Adrianople (Eng.), see Edirne
464
Angelos, Christophoros, Greek scholar
230
Anghel, Athanasie, Metropolitan of Transylvania
And use of bread in Eucharist
229
Antim, Monastery in Bucharest
And tax on coffee
136
Antioch (Antakya), town in Turkey, Orthodox Patriarchate of~
226
Apafi, Mihály I, Prince of Transylvania
105, 151, 151n, 157, 158
Apahida (Hung. Apahida, Germ. Bruckendorf), village in central Transylvania
Water mill in
276
Apicius (Marcus Gavius), Latin gourmet
104, 359, 369n, 445
Apor, Farkas, Transylvanian (Székely) noble
159
Apor, István, Transylvanian count, treasurer of Transylvania
153–4, 153n, 155
Apor, Lázár (1595–1643), Transylvanian (Székely) noble, army commander of Ciuc district
158
Apor, Péter (1676–1752), Transylvanian baron, royal judge of Székely Land, historian and gourmet
18, 152, 155, 155n, 157n3, 159n2, 160, 160n, 165n, 166n, 168, 184
Description of peasant wedding
159, 159n
On coffee
164, 164n
On dining utensils used by Transylvanian nobles
153–4, 154n
On the use of ‘extendable’ tables in Transylvanian manors
150, 150n
On the use of lard in cooking
161, 161n
On the use of portable cutlery among Transylvanian nobles
155–6, 156n
On rank and table seating
158
Apostol, cattle dealer (Rom. gelep) in Wallachia
315
Arabic Peninsula
127
Arad (Hung. Arad, Ger. Arad), city in north- western Transylvania
416, 420, 488
Ardeal, see Transylvania
Argeş, town and county in Wallachia
235n, 259
~ Monastery in Wallachia
329
Argetoianu, Constantin, member of Wallachian gentry
Purchases of food in 1774
330
Argetoianu, Mariuţa, gentry lady from Wallachia
Dealings with merchants
313, 332n
Asia
451
Asia Minor
460, 471n, 472, 478
Central ~
9, 65, 77, 110, 121n
And dairy produce used by Turkic peoples
117
And origins of çorba
109
And the use of Sal ammoniacum
356
Asiye Sultan, daughter of Sultan Ahmed II
60n
Aş Kapısı (Food Gate), Gate in the district Beşiktaş of Istanbul
81
Athos, Mount, mountain and peninsula in north-eastern Greece
179
Monastic establishments at
179, 244, 476
Attica, historic region in Greece
67, 460
Augsburg, town in Germany
~ dinnerware
106, 196, 197, 252
Ausbruch, Austrian wine, see ‘Aispurh’
Austria
322
Austrian administration of Oltenia (Wallachia)
220, 220n, 314, 314n, 319
Austrian representations of the Romanians
125, 219, 219n, 255, 255n, 485
Impact of Austrian cuisine in 17th-c Croatia
22, 348, 348n, 369
Impact of Austrian cuisine in 19th-c Bulgaria
383, 397
Austrian influence on the use of sugar centrepieces in Wallachia
441
Austrian ‘sphere of influence’ in Romania
452, 452n
Austrian Empire, Habsburg Empire
223
Austro-Hungarian, Empire
xxiii, 405
Aydıncik (Edincik), town on the Mediterranean coast of Turkey
olive cultivation around
40, 41
Aydonat (Paramythia), town in Greece
42
Aynalıkavak, district along the Bosphorus in Istanbul
87
Ayşe Fahriye, Ottoman lady writer, author of Ev Kadını [The Housewife]
79, 79n, 90n, 92n, 96
Ayvalık, port and district on the Aegean Sea, Turkey
68
Bacci, Andrea, Italian philosopher and physician
352n, 354n
Bad Borseck, see Borsec
Baia Mare (Hung. Nagybánya, Ger. Frauenbach), town in northern Transylvania
Trade and
298, 302
Bajmóc, see Bojnice
Baksić, Petrus Deodatus, Catholic bishop of Sofia
91, 245n
Abundance of exotic food on Wallachian princely tables (1640) described by
250n
Blessing of food in the Romanian Principalities (1640) described by
225n
Fasting in the Romanian Principalities (1640) described by
240–1, 240n, 241n
Balkan Peninsula
304, 312n, 462
Flight of peasants in the
220
Trade routes in the
295–6
Settlement of Slavs in the
461
Balş, Iordache, Great Vistier (treasurer) of Moldavia
Coffee-drinking and
136
Banat, region in western Romania
xvii, 109–10, 110n, 125, 243n, 247, 260, 388
Jewish lease-holders in
488n, 509
Bandinus (Bandini), Marcus (Marco), Catholic Bishop of Marcianopolis
176n, 184n, 208, 237n, 259
On fasting among 17th-c Moldavian Catholics
139n, 192n
on frugality among the Romanians in the 17th c
183, 183n, 428n
On gifts of food to travellers in Moldavia
189n2, 191n
On Moldavian wines
186n
On the consumption of horse meat in 17th-c Moldavia
173n
On the consumption of mare’s milk in 17th-c Moldavia
174n
Bánffy, Anna, Transylvanian noblewoman, wife of Székely Ádám
Wedding banquet of
156, 156n
Barasch Iulius, Romanian (Jewish) physician and scholar
On taverns and drinking habits in Moldavia (1842)
496, 496n2, 506
Bargrave, Robert, British traveller
235, 235n, 259, 407, 423
On beer in Transylvania
415, 415n
On bread in the Romanian Principalities (1652)
183, 183n
Basil the Great, Saint
193, 242, 242n, 253, 482
On fasting
240, 240n
Bassetti, Bartolomeo, Franciscan missionary in Moldavia (17th c)
225
Prayers for food
226, 226n
Bayezid II, Sultan (1481–1512)
53
Bălaş, kahvecı in Moldavia
140, 140n
Bârlad, town in southern Moldavia
502
Beci, see Vienna
Bekken, Hans, baker in Cluj (Transylvania)
282
Belgrade (Beograd)
ix, xxii, 14n, 22, 67, 219, 376, 377, 386, 386n2, 387, 387n, 397, 398, 399, 451
Bellanger, Stanislas, French diplomat and traveller
444, 444n, 456
on banquet in Bucharest (1836)
445-6
Bengescu, noble family from Wallachia
242
Food purchases of
330
Bengescu, Stoica, Wallachian boyar
242
Bentham, Jeremy, British traveller
On coffee-houses in Bucharest
141, 141n
Beograd, see Belgrade
Berger, Florence British writer
406, 411, 411n
On food and coffee in Bucharest (1877)
410, 415, 417, 423, 423n
Berzenczei, Márton, Transylvanian (Székely) cook of Prince Apafi Mihály I
157
Bessarabia, historic region of Moldavia (Romania), now Republic of Moldova
384, 499
Beszterce, see Bistrița
Beşiktaş, district and palace in Istanbul, former residence of Ottoman sultans
81
Kitchens at
80
Bethlen, Gábor, Prince of Transylvania and King of Hungary
xxii, 100, 155, 271, 282, 309
‘Master of spices’ court office created under reign of
108
Purchases of foodstuffs for
293, 298, 304, 306
Tableware in the house of
154, 154n
Wedding banquet of
157
Bethlen, Miklós, Transylvanian count, chancellor and historian
And coffee-drinking
164
And food during military campaigns
159, 167, 167n
Dining habits of
152
Dining hall of
151, 151n
On preparing fish in aspic
161, 161n
Beuthelt, Imre, citizen of the city of Cluj (Transylvania)
And ownership of bakery (17th c)
279, 280
Beykoz, district in Istanbul
‘Beykoz flour’
82, 82n
Beylerbeyi Palace, former Istanbul summer palace of the Ottoman sultans
93
Bilhorod-Dnistrovskîi, town in Ukraine, see Akkerman
Bistriţa (Hung. Beszterce, Germ. Bistritz), town in north-eastern Transylvania
172, 209, 410
Bistritz, see Bistrița
Bitola, city in south-eastern Macedonia
465, 472
Black Sea
xxiii, 6, 37, 44, 105, 116, 129n, 412, 418n, 424, 472, 478
Blancardus, Nicolaos (Blankaart Nikolaas), Flemish doctor and scholar
230, 230n
On blessed bread (17th c)
231
Bogorov, Ivan, Bulgarian traveller and writer
On the ‘modern Bulgarian housewife’ (19th c)
283, 283n
Bohemia
312, 445
Bojnice (Bajmóc), town in Slovakia
Trade and
298
Boner, Charles, British traveller (1863)
24, 406, 407, 408, 408n, 409, 409n, 410, 410n, 412, 418, 418n, 420, 420n, 423, 424
On mineral baths in Transylvania
414, 414n
On Transylvanian wines
413, 413n
Bonfini, Antonio (Bonfinus Antonius), Italian humanist
424
On Transylvanian wines
412, 412n
Bordeaux (wine)
354, 411, 445
Bornemisza, Pál, Catholic Bishop of Transylvania and writer
And supposed acclimatization of tobacco in Transylvania
164
Bornemisza, Anna, Princess of Transylvania, spouse of Apafi Mihály I
100n, 111, 111n, 113, 117, 117n2, 123, 158, 158n, 159n, 161, 163n, 168, 301, 302, 308
Recipes for rice in cookbook of
304, 304n
Recipe for roast meat in cookbook of (1680)
114, 114n
Recipe for squid and snails in cookbook of
306, 306n
Recipes for stag meat in cookbook of
160, 160n
Borsec (Hung. Borszék, Ger. Bad Borseck), town and spa resort in Transylvania
412, 414, 414n
Bosnia
xxii, xxiv, 14, 15, 34, 373, 387, 393, 455, 465
Hardali and muselez wines in
360, 360n
Bosphorus
87, 143
Botero, Giovanni, Italian geographer
283n
Boué, Ami, French writer and traveller
24, 382, 382n, 453, 453n, 462, 463, 463n, 473, 474
Ethnographic method of
466
On maize gruel
464, 464n
On pasta and rice
465, 465n
On types of meat consumed across the Balkans (1840s)
463–4, 464n
Brandenburg, von, Katarina, Princess of Transylvania, wife of Prince Bethlen Gábor
Food centrepiece at wedding banquet of
147
Brassó, see Brașov
Brașov (Hung. Brassó, Ger. Kronstadt), city in south-eastern Transylvania
138n, 142, 145, 153,196, 239, 239n, 243n, 249, 272, 277, 309, 310, 327, 328n, 410, 420
And spice trade in Transylvania
297, 297n, 305
Customs tariffs of (1654)
304, 306, 306n
Brăila, Romanian port on the Danube
436, 501
Brăiloiu, Constantin, Wallachian boyar
And purchases of medicine and foodstuffs
327
And purchases of wine in the year 1800
323
Brăiloiu Elenca, gentry lady, wife of ~ Constantin
Orders of foodstuffs
326, 327n
Brăiloiu, gentry family of Wallachia
And criteria for hiring a cook
331
Brâncoveanu, Constantin, Prince of Wallachia
22, 26, 123, 219n, 229, 239n, 243, 260, 313, 320, 321n, 334, 337, 342, 372, 373
And oldest cookbook in Wallachia
182
Influence of Italian culinary culture at the court of
255, 255n, 347, 347n, 369
And use of forks
255, 255n
And purchases of food
324n, 330n
Brâncoveanu, noble family from Wallachia
330
Brâncoveanu, Ştefan, Prince of Wallachia, son of ~ Constantin
255n
Brillat-Savarin, Jean-Anthelme, French lawyer, politician and gastronome
1, 381n, 400, 433, 445–6, 460n, 476
Broos (Rom. Orăștie; Hung. Szásaváros)
In Charles Boner’s travel narrative (1865)
410, 410n, 413, 413n
Brukenthal, Samuel von, Baron, governor of Transylvania
327, 327n, 408
Bucharest, capital of Wallachia (var. Bukarest, Buchorest; Rom. Bucureşti)
xxiv, 136, 221, 226, 228, 248, 256, 315n, 317, 327n, 329n, 332n, 406, 434, 439, 442, 445n, 489, 495, 499
Coffee-houses in Bucharest
142
In travel literature
137, 141, 245, 254, 406, 410, 411, 412, 415, 417, 418, 420, 423, 438, 442, 443, 444, 447, 448–9, 450, 452, 455
Bucioc, Costea, Moldavian boyar
190
Bucovina (Bukovina), historic province in northern Romania and Ukraine
247, 482
production of raki in
504
Buda (the eyalet of ~ , the vilayet of ~) Budapest
xxii, 100, 101, 106, 119, 272, 273, 291, 312n
Buda Law
285, 285n, 292
Budapest (Buda, Budim, Pesta, Peşta), capital of Hungary
13n, 120, 325, 405, 407
Bulcsesti Sára, Transylvanian noblewoman, wife of Székely Laszlo
Tableware in the testament of
155, 167
Bulgaria
xxiii, xxiv, 4n, 12, 12n, 22, 26, 34, 377, 378, 395, 396, 400, 401, 446, 451, 461, 475
Census of 1880 in
383
‘National cuisine’ in
393–4
Burmov, Todor, Bulgarian writer
383, 383n, 398
Bursa, town in Turkey
48
Bread from
103
Butterfat from
41, 41n
Consumption of olives in
37, 38
Burton, Nathanael, British missionary
406, 420, 421, 421n, 422, 424, 452, 454, 456
In Bucharest
423, 423n
On food and wine in Wallachian inn
411, 411n2, 416, 416n2, 417, 417n
On food in the Romanian Principalities
434–5, 434n, 435n, 453
On Romanian polenta (mămăligă)
416, 416n
On Transylvanian inns (1837)
409–10, 409n, 415, 415n
Burzenland, see Țara Bârsei
Businello, Pietro, Venetian diplomat
219, 219n
Byzantine Empire, see Byzantium
Byzantium
218, 221n, 232n, 235n, 240n, 242n, 246n, 249, 262, 262, 264, 265, 266, 267, 311, 338
Caffa (Kaffa, Kefe, Feodosia), city in Crimea
41, 116, 116n
Cahul, town and county in Bessarabia (Republic of Moldova)
129
Caillat, Joseph, French physician and traveller
430, 430n, 431n, 454, 456
And sharing food with the locals in Wallachia
446–7, 447n
On eating habits in the Romanian Principalities
433, 433n2
On the therapeutic virtues of fruit preserves
434n
Canta, Ioniţă, Moldavian chronicler
136, 136n
Cantacuzino, Moldavian and Wallachian noble family
100n, 209, 321n, 330, 333, 342, 349, 359, 487
And 18th-c cookery book
244, 257
Cantacuzino, Constantin, Wallachian nobleman and historian
22, 342, 342n, 359, 360, 368, 372
And links with Italy
22, 347, 349, 349n, 369
Cantacuzino, Dumitraşco, ruler of Moldavia
177, 177n
And fasting
192–3
Cantacuzino, Radu, Wallachian nobleman and scholar
349
Cantacuzino, Şerban, Voivode (ruling prince) of Wallachia
118, 130, 130n, 238, 238n, 261
Cantacuzino, Ştefan, Voivode (ruling prince) of Wallachia
224n
Cantemir, Antioch, Voivode (ruling prince) of Moldavia and poet, son of ~ Constantin
135, 135n
Cantemir, Constantin, Voivode (ruling prince) of Moldavia
130, 130n
And coffee-drinking
134, 134n
Cantemir, Demetrios, Voivode (ruling prince) of Moldavia, scholar, son of ~ Constantin
110n2, 124, 130n, 131, 131n, 134n, 135n, 144, 171, 171n, 173, 174n, 175, 175n2, 190n, 193n, 194, 194n2, 208, 248n, 258, 258n
On Jewish tavern lease-holders in Moldavia
488, 488n
On Moldavian hospitality
189, 189n
On Moldavian wines
186, 186n, 187, 187n
On the drinking habits of the Moldavians
188, 188n
On the eating habits of the Moldavians
184, 184n
Caracaş, Constantin, chief medic in Wallachia
145
Bread recipe described by
234n
On coffee-drinking in Wallachia
132, 132n, 136, 136n, 141–2
Caragea, Gheorghe Ioan, Prince of Wallachia
316n
Caragea, Constantin, administrator of a county (ban) in Moldavia
And coffee-drinking
135–6
Caragiale, Ion Luca, Romanian writer
501, 502n, 507
Author of novella about Jewish tavern-keepers in Moldavia (1889)
500, 500n
Carpathians, mountains
104, 108, 112, 180, 222n, 245, 293, 415, 417
Round about the Carpathians by Andrew F. Crosse (1878)
406, 414n, 417n, 424
Carra, Toma, Greek jurist
236
Cato (Marcus Porcius), Latin historian
352
Călărași, town and county in Wallachia
491
Călugăru, Ion, Romanian writer
On poisoning with essential vinegar in Moldavia
504, 505n, 507
Cârstea, Wallachian cattle dealer (gelep)
315n
Čakovec (Hung. Csáktornya, Ger. Tschakturn), estate of the Zrinski family in Croatia
12n, 29, 343n, 350, 373, 374
Çelebi, Evliya, Ottoman scholar and traveller
33n, 34, 35, 35n, 36, 37, 40, 42, 47, 49, 75, 103, 103n, 123, 184, 184n, 372
On ‘floating’ water mills on the Danube
238
On muselles wine
360, 360n
On pastrami
108, 108n, 112, 112n, 317n
On tea-drinking in Istanbul
63n
On the consumption of olives and fat in the Ottoman Empire
41, 41n2, 42
On Wallachian celery
245, 246n
Cernăuţi (Czernowitz), capital of the province Bukovina (Ukraine)
409
Çeşme, coastal town and district in Turkey
Production of olives in (16th c)
39
Cetăţuia, Monastery in Moldavia, near Iaşi
213
Kitchen at
179, 179n
China
128, 360
And origins of pilau rice
116
And origins of sugar table figurines
440
Chishull, Edmund, British diplomat
218n, 260, 407, 421, 421n, 424
On banquet at Bucharest court (1702)
253–4, 254n
On eating habits in the Romanian Principalities
412–13, 413n
Çırağan Palace, former Istanbul residence of the Ottoman sultans on the Bosphorus
80, 89
Cluj (Hung. Kolozsvár, Ger. Klausenburg), town in Transylvania
13n, 19, 28, 99, 107, 107n, 122n, 125, 126, 162, 177, 186, 197n, 213, 215, 271, 272, 272n, 291, 292, 293, 309, 310, 373, 409, 410, 419, 420, 423, 498
Bakeries in
278–84, 278n, 280n, 281n, 282n, 283n
Bread provision in (16–17th c)
273
‘cabbage à la Cluj’
116, 116n, 119
Customs accounts of (17th c)
296, 300, 303, 307
Lack of bakers’ guilds in
284
Lack of millers’ guilds in
278
Meat provision in
284–90, 284n, 286n, 287n, 288n, 289n, 290n
Mills in and around
273, 274, 274n, 275, 276, 276n, 277, 277n
Regulations on slaughterhouses in
285, 285n
Coler, Johannes, Protestant priest and scholar
Author of Oeconomia, ruralis et domestica (1591–1606)
348n, 352, 355, 355n, 368, 370
Columbus, Cristopher, Italian navigator and explorer
95
The Columbian Exchange
17
Columella (Lucius Iunius Moderatus), Latin agronomist
351, 357, 358, 358n3, 368, 370
Constantinople, Istanbul
23, 88n, 96, 97, 137n, 141n, 218n, 226, 227, 234, 234n, 246, 249, 260, 262, 324, 406, 408n, 424, 425, 431, 434, 438, 439, 439n, 443, 450, 450n, 456, 462, 489
Earliest coffee-houses in
128
Demand for Romanian livestock in
314
Romanian grain exports to
237, 311, 318, 419
Corinth, historic region in Greece
465, 465n
Corvinus, Mátyás I, King of Hungary (Corvinus, Matthias)
xxii, 107, 167, 167n, 419n
‘Hungarian meat loaf’ served at the court of
103, 103n
Costa, Petru Ianuş Hagi, Wallachian merchant
313, 326, 328, 329n
Costa, Petru Polihronie, Wallachian merchant
328, 329, 329n
Costin, Miron, Moldavian boyar and historian
171n2, 190n, 194, 194n, 208
Cotnari, town and vineyard in Moldavia
175, 186, 186n, 211, 216, 225
Cotroceni, Monastery in Bucharest
131, 246n, 334, 337
Inventory of
332n
Purchases of coffee at
324, 324n
Craiova, city in Oltenia county (Wallachia)
134, 316, 323, 326, 328, 334, 337
Craven, Elisabeth Lady, British aristocrat and traveller
218n, 260, 405, 406, 408, 408n, 417, 418n, 424
Creangă, Ion, Romanian writer
502, 502n, 507
Crete
6, 11, 42, 45, 462, 471n, 491
Neophytos of Crete, Metropolitan of Ungrovlachia
507
Crimea
xxii, 54, 54n, 218
Crimean linen
445
Crimean War
93, 406, 408, 424, 435, 436n, 437, 438n, 451, 452, 457
Keffe, port in Crimea
116, 116n
Crișana, historic region in western Transylvania
118
Croatia
8, 12, 18, 22, 24, 29, 350, 374, 388, 397
Crosse, Andrew F., British amateur scientist and traveller
406, 410, 414, 414n, 417, 417n, 424
Csáktornya, see Čakovec
Csanádi, Ferenc, citizen and mayor of the city of Cluj (Transylvania) 16th c
275, 275n
Csehi, András, Transylvanian, servant of Prince Bethlen Gábor
155
Csikpálfalva (Păuleni-Ciuc)
165
Cuza, Alexandru C., Romanian politician
498n, 509
On Jewish tavern-keepers in Modavia
486, 486n
Cuzi, Hagi, Balkan merchant
324n
Cyprus
73, 230, 424, 445, 456
Czernowitz, see Cernăuți
Čakovec (Hung. Csáktornya, Ger. Tschakturn), Croatian town
12n, 29, 343, 373, 374
Pomiculture at the Zrinski court at
350
Da Cortona, Benedetto, Franciscan missionary in Wallachia
And debate around the sacramental host
229
D’Haussez, Charles, Baron, French politician
406
And impressions of Transylvania
413, 414, 416, 416n, 420, 424
Damascus, city in Syria
Apricots from
86
Danube, river
7, 115n, 129, 129n, 247, 297, 314, 314n, 337, 406, 410, 447, 457, 461
And trade
259, 312n, 315n, 317n2, 318, 332, 436, 436n
Baron d’Haussez, Alpes et Danube (1837)
416n, 424
Fish sourced from (17th c)
172, 438
‘Floating’ water mills on
238
Steam navigation on
429
Danubian Principalities (Romanian Principalities, Moldavia and Wallachia)
xxiii, 6, 19, 170, 410, 424, 429, 478
Alcoholic beverages in
416
Patrick O’Brien, Journal of a residence in the Danubian Principalities in the autumn and winter of 1853
436, 436n, 456
Sherbet in
415
De Marcellus, Marie Louis, French diplomat
328n, 438, 438n, 444, 446, 458
And impressions of Bucharest
443, 443n2
On wedding banquet in Bucharest (1820)
439, 439n, 442, 453
Del Chiaro Anton Maria, Italian writer and court secretary in Wallachia
260
On agriculture in the Romanian Principalities
219n, 222n
On bread in Wallachia
227, 227n, 249, 249n, 250, 250n
On coffee-drinking in 17–18th-c Wallachia
130n, 132n2, 139n, 324n
On court banquet in Wallachia
253, 253n
On Easter food offerings in Wallachia
232, 232n
On fasting in Wallachia
243, 243n2
On gifts of food to visiting dignitaries in Wallachia
226, 226n, 329n
On Jewish inn-keepers in Wallachia
488
On the consumption of escargots and snails in Wallachia
244, 244n, 320
On wedding banquet in Wallachia
250, 250n
Dernschwam, Hans, merchant and writer from Bohemia
102, 103n, 108, 123
On boza
121, 121n
On çorba and breakfast soups
109, 109n, 111, 111n
On eating with one’s fingers
105, 105n
On tarhana
110, 110n
On the eating habits of the Hungarians (16th c)
106, 106n2
On the preparation of meat dishes in the Ottoman Empire
112, 116, 116n2
Desjardin, Ernest, French historian and geographer
On Jewish liquor retailers in Moldavia (19th c)
495, 495n, 498
Dezsö, noble family from Transylvania
And mill ownership (16th c)
276
Digby, Kenelm, British diplomat and philosopher
346n, 371
Dimaras, Konstantinos, Greek scholar
468, 468n, 475
Döbel, Ernst, German traveller`
447, 447n, 448, 448n, 456
And impressions of Bucharest and the Romanians
449, 455
On Romanian polenta (mămăligă)
438, 449, 453
Dobrudja, Romanian historic province
xxiv, 116, 120
And watermelons as gifts
247
The preparation of kŭtmi in
395
Dolmabahçe Palace, former Istanbul residence of the Ottoman sultans in the 19th century
96
Banquet at (1856)
93
Kitchens at
80, 81n, 90n
Donáth, Klára, Transylvanian noblewoman
Wedding purchases for (1691)
166
Dositheos, Patriarch of Jerusalem
252n, 266
And the debate on the Eucharist
229, 229n
Draganovich, Jerotei, Serbian friar
380n2, 398
Dubrovnik, see Ragusa
Dumitraşco, Cantacuzino, Voivode (ruling prince) of Moldavia
Famine during the reign of (17th c)
177, 177n
Non-observance of fast
192–3
Edincik, see Aydıncik
Olives from
40, 41
Edirne (Adrianople, Andrinople), district and city on north-western Turkey
34, 38, 312n, 317
And trade in dry okra
87
Milanese-style sweets made in
465
Treaty of (1829)
490
Edremit, district and city on the western coast of Turkey
Olive production in
42, 42n, 43, 45, 46, 48, 66, 66n, 76
Egypt (Misir)
73
Capers and rock candy from
246
Mehmet Ali, Paşa of
45
Milk supplies from
83
Okra consumption in
433, 447
Rice imports from
83
Sugar imports from
326
Elliott, Charles Boileau, British traveller
429, 429n, 437, 454, 454n, 456
And food-sharing in Wallachia
430, 432, 432n
Fruit preserves in Wallachia described by
431, 431n
Emen, see Yemen
Eminescu, Mihai, Romanian poet and journalist
And antisemitic stereotypes in Romanian culture
483, 483n, 491
On Jewish tavern-keepers in Romania
491, 491n, 494, 494n, 499, 499n, 500, 500n, 507
On the drinking habits of Romanian peasants
484, 484
England
138n, 218n, 260, 341n, 342n, 368n, 369n, 373, 376, 400, 406, 407, 413n, 424, 425, 450, 456
And trade with the Romanian Principalities
302, 302n, 309
Enyed, see Aiud
Epirus, historic region in Greece and Albania
461, 462n
Erdély, see Ardeal, Transylvania
Esigmacher, Leibiş, vinegar producer from Piatra Neamț (Romania)
503–4, 504n
Estienne, Charles, French humanist and physician
Author of Praedium rusticum (1554)
352, 353, 353n, 354, 354n, 360n, 365n, 368n, 371
Ethiopia
127
Eustratie, Dabija, Voivode (ruling prince) of Moldavia
196
Evelyn, John, British writer and gardener
352n
Eyüp, district of the city of Istanbul
Yoghurt from
83
Fallmerayer, Jakob Philipp, Austrian traveller, journalist and historian
467, 467n2, 476
Fatma Sultan, daughter of Mehmed IV
Coffee allocations for
71, 71n
Făgăraş (Hung. Fogaras, Ger. Fogarasch, Fugreschmarkt), city in Transylvania
417
Cafés at
423
Sugar miniature of
156, 156n
Fălcoianu, Dumitrache, Wallachian boyar
Purchases of tableware in 1781
331
Feodosia, see Caffa
Feridün, Ahmed Bey, Ottoman chronicler
129
Feriye, district along the Bosphorus in Istanbul
Vegetable gardens in
87
Ferrari, Giovanni Battista, Italian agronomist
Author of Hesperides (1646)
358n, 371
Fethiye (Mekri), city in south-western Turkey
42
Filimon, Nicolae, Romanian writer
507
On taverns in Bucharest
495, 495n
Filstich, Johann, Transylvanian scholar
218n, 232n, 260
Filstich, Lőrinc, Comes (Sheriff) of the city of Cluj (Transylvania)
280
Fioravanti, Leonardo, Italian doctor and alchemist
371
Influence of ~ on 17th-c elite cookbooks in Wallachia
348, 348n, 349, 349n, 366, 366n2, 367, 367n, 368
Flachat, Jean-Claude, French traveller
On the use of dark flour in 18th-c Romania
235n
Florence
347
And the origins of alkermes
366
Council of
229
Florina, town in north-western Greece
471
Macedonian culinary traditions in
472, 473, 473n, 476
Focșani, town in southern Moldavia (Romania)
449, 487, 502
Fogaras, see Făgăraș
Fogarasch, see Făgăraș
Frankfurt
158n, 285
Frauenbach, see Baia Mare
Friedel, Johann, Austrian traveller
239
Frontali, Giovanni Bartolomeo, Franciscan missionary in Moldavia
241, 241n, 244n
Frontignan, town and district in southern France; variety of wine
322
Fugreschmarkt, see Făgăraș
Gál Szabó, miller in Cluj (Transylvania)
274n
Galata, district of Istanbul
103, 440
Night-bars in (16th c)
122
Pubs in
35
Restaurants and cafes in (19th c)
94
Trade in (17th-c)
42
Galata, Monastery in Moldavia, near Iaşi
Orchards of
175
Galați, town and port on the Danube in Romania
129n, 171, 229, 312, 313n, 333, 488, 502
Bread in (1652)
183
Galen, Greek physician and surgeon
352
Galeotto, Marcio, scholar, head librarian of King Mátyás Corvinus
167–8, 168n
Galicia, historic province in the Polish Kingdom
491, 494, 498, 506
Gallo, Agostino, Italian agronomist and humanist
352n
Gaşpar Graţiani, Voivode (ruling prince) of Moldavia
190
Gellyén, Imre, chief judge of the city of Cluj (Transylvania)
Owner of bakery
282
Geoagiu de Sus (Hung. Felgyógy), village in central Transylvania
And allegations of drink-poisoning by Jews (1846)
496
Gérando, Auguste de, French writer and traveller
13n, 26, 123, 407, 424
On Romanian polenta (mămăligă)
416, 416n
On the preparation of popcorn (kakas)
118n
Gerard, Dorothea, Gerard Emily’s sister
407
Gerard, Emily, Scottish novelist and journalist
23, 24, 405, 407, 407n, 417n, 420, 422, 423, 424, 425
Germany
224, 352, 409n, 410n, 414, 415n, 416n, 423, 424, 447
Sugar table decorations in
441
Gernyeszeg, see Gorneşti
Gheorgachi, “the logothete” (secretary) of a Voivode (ruling prince) in Moldavia
131n, 145, 254
On court table manners (1762)
133
Gheorghe Duca, Voivode (ruling prince) of Moldavia
Distilleries and breweries owned by (17th c)
188, 188n
Ghica, Ion, Romanian politician and writer
507
On Jewish tavern-keepers (1884)
499, 499n
Ghica, Raliţa, wife of Ban Constantin Caragea
And coffee-drinking in Moldavia (1760)
136
Girardin, Saint-Marc, French politician and writer
494, 494n2
Giurgevo, see Giurgiu
Giurgiu (Giurgevo), port on the Danube (Romania)
312n, 411, 438, 438n, 451
German influence on cuisine in
452
Glykis, Nikolas, Greek publisher
225
Goar, Jacques, French liturgist and theologian
On the origins of coliva (Rom. cake of the dead)
252, 252n
Golescu, Constantin, Wallachian boyar
Orders of food for (1780)
326n
Golescu, Iordache, Wallachian boyar
483, 483n, 507
Golescu, Radu, Wallachian boyar
And criteria for hiring a cook (1807)
331
Gorneşti (Hung. Gernyeszeg), village in Transylvania
169
Castle inventory (1689) from
151, 152n
Govora, Monastery in eastern Wallachia
487
Grataroli, Guglielmo, Italian doctor and alchemist
Author of De vini natura (1565)
353n, 354n
Graz
319n, 348
Greceanu, Maria, noble lady from Wallachia
336
Purchases of sugar for (18th c)
326, 326n
Greece
xxiii, xxiv, 10, 12, 18, 34, 42, 44, 228, 252, 321, 369, 381n, 439n, 443n, 446, 457, 460, 460n, 461n, 466, 467, 468, 469, 471n, 473n, 474, 475, 476, 477
Grekov, Michail, Bulgarian writer
382n, 384, 384n, 400
Griselini, Francesco, Italian traveller
243n, 260
Grosswardein, see Oradea
Gülnuş Sultan, Ahmed III’s mother
Allocations of food for
60
Gyerőffy, Gáspár, mill owner in Cluj (Transylvania)
277
Gyulafehérvár, see Alba Iulia
Gyulaffy, László of Ráthoth, Transylvanian counsellor and commander-in-chief of the army
Testament of (1589)
167
Habsburg Empire (Austrian Empire)
xxii, 5, 6, 8, 24, 100, 104, 150, 151, 219, 275n, 288n, 314n, 378, 380, 397, 441n, 453, 478, 488
Annexation of Oltenia by
314
Gulyás (goulash) as anti-Habsburg symbol
115
Habsburg, dynasty
100, 102, 104, 106n
Hacı, Mehmed Ağa (Müridoğlu), notable of Edremit
48
Olive trade of
42, 42n
Hasdeu, Bogdan Petriceicu, Romanian historian and writer
481, 498, 507, 509
On the adulteration of drinks by Jews in Moldavia
498, 498n2
Halkidiki, Peninsula in Greece
461
Haller, János, Transylvanian noble, counsellor and member of the government
152, 152n
Purchases of tableware (1694)
154, 155
Haller, Petru, Transylvanian nobleman
106, 106n2, 125
Hamard, Pierre-Jean, French traveller
424
On the sherbet kiosks in Bucharest (1885)
412, 412n
Hamic, Turkish kahvecı in Bucharest
131, 131n
Harmenopoulos, Constantine, Byzantine scholar and legal scholar
236, 236n
Haskovo, town in south-eastern Bulgaria
383
Hăbăşescul, Ioan, Moldavian boyar
184
Henry II, king of France
366n
Heresbach, Konrad, German reformer and humanist
352n
Hermannstadt, see Sibiu
Herșcu (Hershku), Jewish tavern-keeper in Focșani (Moldavia)
488
Herzegovina
14, 373, 465
Heynod, see Huedin
Hiltebrant, Conrad Iacob, Swedish envoy
174, 174n
Hippocrates, ancient Greek physician
352
‘Hippocrates’ sleeve’, device for filtering water
362, 364, 365
Hogaș, Calistrat, Romanian writer
507
On the poisoning of drinks in Moldavia (19th c)
500, 501, 501n
Hozzw, István, citizen of the city of Cluj (Transylvania)
Wife of ~ as baker of bread
278n
Hranislav, Gavril, Serbian writer
380n, 398
Huedin (Hung. Bánffyhunyad), town in Transylvania
423
Hunter, William, British traveller
On coffee-drinking in Bucharest (1792)
137, 137n, 138, 138n, 139n
Hunyadi, János, see Iancu of Hunedoara
Hüseyn, Mirza Bayqara, Sultan of Khorasan
129
Iancu of Hunedoara (Hunyadi, János), Voivode of Transylvania, regent of Hungary
xxii, 103n, 419, 419n
Iași, city and county in Moldavia
xiii, 122, 131, 134n, 136n, 137, 137n2, 138n3, 139n, 142, 142n, 144, 145, 171, 172, 175, 179, 179n. 180n2, 181, 188, 196n, 208, 210, 213, 225, 411, 412, 435, 439, 443n, 445n, 484, 486, 491, 493, 499, 504
Hungarian bread-makers in
183
Jewish tavern-keepers in (1654)
487
Ritual bread in (17th c)
192
Sherbet served in (1820)
414
Taverns in (19th c)
498
Tax registers of (1755)
140, 140n2
Ibn Māsawaih, Yūhannā, Persian physician and scholar
On alkermes
366
Ioannina, town in Greece
Coffee shops in
465
Ionescu de la Brad, Ion, Romanian agronomist
507
On wine additives used in Romania (19th c)
502–3, 503n
Ionescu, Take, Romanian politician
On the sale of spirits in Romania (19th c)
486, 486n
Iovipali, Nica (Nicoliţă), Balkan merchant from Wallachia
And purchases of food for the Wallachian elite (18th c)
320, 330
Irby, Adelina, British traveller
462
And food-sharing in Bosnia (1866)
455, 455n
Islam
And fasting
242n
And the consumption of alcohol
88, 89, 360
And the consumption of olives and olive oil
33
And the use of animal fat in cooking
65
The influence of Islamic cuisine
345n
İsmail (Izmail), city on the Danube in Ukraine
129n
The production of butterfat in
44
Istanbul (Tsarigrad, Constantinople), capital of the Ottoman Empire
7, 11, 11n, 12n, 13n, 14n, 22, 26, 29, 30, 33, 35, 35n, 44, 45, 45n, 46, 47, 48, 49, 53, 56, 64, 65, 73, 74, 75, 78, 80n, 81, 95, 95n, 96, 97, 98, 102n, 103n, 105, 105n, 116n2, 123, 126, 129, 230, 233, 234n, 266n, 296, 306, 317, 321, 324n, 332n, 376, 377, 377n, 384, 385, 387, 390, 393, 398, 399, 442
Allocations of food in
54n
Coffee-houses in
18n, 465
Dairy in the markets of (19th c)
83
The adulteration of butterfat in (18th c)
44
The consumption of fish in (19th c)
85, 90–1, 91n, 92n
The consumption of haricot beans in (19th c)
83
The consumption of olive oil by elites in Istanbul
17, 38, 39, 40, 40n, 41, 42, 43, 43n, 44, 45, 69n, 84, 84n
The consumption of oranges in
86–7
The consumption of tea in
63n
The consumption of turkey in
68
The consumption of wheat in (19th c)
82, 82n
The consumption of vegetables in (19th c)
87–8
The culinary culture of
16, 17, 30, 34, 77n, 79, 79n, 80, 80n, 82, 83, 84, 85n, 88n, 89, 89n, 95, 121n, 381, 384, 384n, 388, 396n, 397, 399
The impact of the Columbian Exchange on the cuisine of
17
The kitchens of elites in (19th c)
81, 81n
Prices and wages in
53n
Pubs in
35
Beverages in
88–9, 89n, 122
Egg dishes in the cuisine of (19th c)
90
Sweets in the cuisine of (19th c)
91
Pasta in the cuisine of (19th c)
91
European influences on the cuisine of (19th c)
93–4
Soups in the cuisine of
111, 111n
Romanian sheep exports to
112
The introduction of maize in the cuisine of
118n
Moldavian butter exports to
174
Romanian pastrami-makers in
185, 317n
Sugar table decorations in
440, 440n
Italy
46, 118n, 257, 346, 346n4, 352, 370n, 373, 392n, 400, 413
And exports of figs and chestnuts to Transylvania (17th c)
298
And the impact of Italian cuisine in Wallachia and Croatia (17th c)
347, 348, 348n
And the use of forks in the 14th c
431n
Sugar sculpture in
440
Ivaz, Turk, kahvecı in Bucharest
And ownership of coffee-house
131, 131n
Ivireanul, Antim, Metropolitan of Wallachia
137n, 143, 224, 224n, 245n, 248, 248n, 252n
And prayers for food in Wallachia (17th c)
225–6
Izmail, see İsmail
Jerusalem
9n, 30, 72n, 76, 131, 226, 229, 317, 406, 424, 456
Jerusalem artichokes
87, 88, 347n
Jianu, Stan Hagi, Wallachian boyar and merchant
442n
And food purchases from Transylvania (18th c)
322, 322n
And table decorations in Wallachia (18th c)
323, 323n, 441, 441n
Jianu, Zamfir, Wallachian boyar
And orders of food from Transylvania (1781)
330n
Joseph II, Habsburg emperor
xxii, 408
Juster, Moise (Moses), vinegar and ethyl alcohol producer from Piatra Neamț (Romania)
504
Kádár, Márton, baker in Cluj (Transylvania)
282
Kakavélas, Jeremia, Orthodox theologian and professor
110, 110n
Kálnoky, Borbála, Transylvanian countess, wife of of Kálnoky Sámuel
159
Kálnoky, Sámuel, Transylvanian (Székely) count, Vice-Chancellor of Transylvania
151n
Dining-room in the manor of
151
Hunting at the manor of
159
Kamil, Mehmet, professor at the Ottoman medical school
78, 78n, 90n, 92n, 96
Kanuni, Sultan Süleyman (the Magnificent)
xxii, 129
And ceremonial table decorations
120
Karavelov, Liuben, Bulgarian writer and journalist
398, 398n
Katsaitis, Markos Antonios, Greek scholar and geographer
488
Kălimănescu, A., Romanian antisemitic writer
509
On the ‘corrupting’ influence of Jews in Moldavia (1865)
499, 499n
Kefe, see Caffa
Khmelnytsky, Bogdan (Bohdan), Hetman of the Zaporozhian Cossacks in the Polish
Kingdom (Ukraine)
487
Kiepert, Heinrich, German geographer
462
Klausenburg, see Cluj
Kogălniceanu, Mihail, Romanian writer and politician
188n, 208, 499
Kolozsmonostor (Rom. Mănăștur, Ger. Abtsdorf), suburb of Cluj
294
Mills at
276, 276n
Kolozsvár, see Cluj
Kondoidis, Anastasios, Greek scholar
And coffee-drinking in Moldavia (18th c)
131
Konstantas, Grigorios, Greek scholar
461, 461n, 474
Köröspatak, see Valea Crişului
Košice, town in Slovakia
157, 272
Kronstadt, see Brașov
Küçük Kaynarca, village in Bulgaria
Treaty of (1774)
xxii, 315
Kunisch, Richard, German folklorist and traveller
On table manners in the Romanian Principalities (1861)
431, 431n
Kŭrdjali, town in central Bulgaria
Kŭtmi as cooked in
395
Kütahya, town in Turkey
Pastrami from (17th c)
108
Kuun, Géza, Transylvanian count, Orientalist scholar
101, 102n
La Varenne, François Pierre (de), French cook and author
346n, 371
And culinary culture in Croatia
348, 348n, 368
Lambru, Gheorghe Hagi, Balkan merchant from Pest
314
Landerer Füskuti, Mihály, Hungarian publisher and librarian
99n, 100n, 109
Larisa, town in Greece
465
Lazor, The Jew, tavern-keeper in Focșani (Moldavia)
487
Le Cler, Gustave, French diplomat
498, 498n
Leake, William Martin, British antiquarian and topographer
461, 461n, 474
Leipzig (‘Lipţa’)
140, 383n
Tea from ordered by Wallachian boyars (18th c)
319n, 325n
Lejean, Guillaume, French ethnographer and traveller
462
Lesbos (Mitylini, Midilli), Greek island in the Aegean Sea
66
Olives from
41, 65
Levant, historical name for a large area in eastern Mediterranean
10, 67, 88n, 96, 415, 423
Balkan-Levantine merchants
296, 296n
Coffee trade via Levantine ports
17
Levantine
5, 244, 259
Levantine merchants in the Romanian Principalities
20
Levantine trade routes in Hungary
297n2
Levantine trade
298, 299, 302, 302n2, 309, 310
Venetian-Levantine culinary style
234, 235n, 253
Liebig, Justus von, German scientist
And Transylvanian wines
413
Lithgow, William, Scottish traveller
407, 420, 424
On Transylvania
421, 421n, 422
Locadello, Bartolomeo, Venetian merchant
218n
Lorántffy, Zsuzsanna, Princess of Transylvania, wife of Prince Rákoczi György I
And sending lemons to her husband
164
Louis II, King of Hungary
100
Louis XIV, King of France
363n, 372
And drinking wine cordials
362
And eating with fingers
431n
Lupașcu, Dimitrie P., Romanian folklorist
502, 502n, 509
Lupu, Vasile, ruling prince of Moldavia
225n, 267
Wedding banquet of daughter (1645)
185, 194
Macedonia
xxiv, 14, 18, 24, 28, 221, 222, 259, 459, 461, 462, 462n, 466, 469, 469n, 470n, 475, 476
Macedonian culinary culture
471, 471n, 472, 473, 474
Macedonian regionalism vs. Greek hegemonic culture
453n
The consumption of red peppers in
472, 472n, 473
Mackenzie, Georgina, British traveller
454, 455n, 462
Macmichael, William, British traveller
406, 414n, 424
On fruit sorbet in Transylvania (1817)
414
On mutton stew in the Romanian lands
417
Magalotti, Lorenzo, Italian scientist and diplomat
363
Mahmut Nedim Bin Tosun, Turkish military commander and writer
80, 80n, 90n, 92n, 96
Makarios III, Patriarch of Antioch
And gifts of food to the Moldavian ruling prince (1653)
176, 185
Food allocation for
234n
Manisa, province and port on the Aegean Sea in Turkey
And consumption of olives at the palace
39, 39n, 40
Manisa melons
86
Manouk Bei, Wallachian merchant
410
Maramureș, county in northern Romania
503, 503n, 506
Maria, daughter of Voivode (ruling prince) Vasile Lupu
Wedding banquet of (1645)
185, 194
Marosvásárhely, see Târgu Mureș
Martial, Latin poet
Epigram of
450
Martinique
Coffee from
138
Matthaios (Matei), Metropolitan of Lycian Myra
And the debate on Eucharist bread (1621)
227–8
Maurer, Maria, Romanian schoolteacher and writer
Cookbook of (1849)
380n, 399
Mavrocordat Nicolae, Prince of Wallachia and Moldavia
314n
Mavrocordat, Constantin, Prince of Moldavia and Wallachia, son of ~ Nicolae
131n, 134n, 144
And coffee-drinking
134
Mavrogheni (Mavrogenis), Nicolae, Prince of Wallachia
Maxim of Peloponnese, Greek scholar
Mănăștur, see Kolozsmonostor, Abtsdorf
Mediaş (Hung. Medgyes, Ger. Mediasch), town in Transylvania
Wine and vineyards in
413, 413n
Medici, Catherine de, queen of France
And the origins of alkermes
366n
Mediterranean (sea and region)
6, 9, 105, 137n, 179, 380, 429, 440
Cuisine in
76, 234n, 243n, 267
Culinary traditions of
379, 470
Olive cultivation on the coast of
34, 65
Thyme grown in
108
Mehmed Ali (Muhammad Ali) Paşa, governor of Egypt
45
Mehmed II the Conqueror, Sultan (1441–1446) (1451–1481)
38, 39n, 48, 106, 106n
Mehmed IV, Sultan
71, 71n
Food allocations for mother of
60, 60n
Mekri, see Fethiye
Menochio, Giovanni Stefano, Italian Jesuit scholar
351, 351n, 371
Mera (Hung. Méra), village in Cluj county (Transylvania)
Three-wheeled mills in
276
Methoni (Modon), town in Greece
42
Mexico
Chocolate from
127
Mickiewicz, Adam, Polish poet
483, 484n
Author of Pan Tadeusz (1834)
496, 496n, 505, 507
Middle East
42n, 48, 52, 89, 96, 234n, 266, 315n, 336, 437
And exotic imports to Moldavia (17th c)
177
And origins of rice
116
Butterfat used for cooking in
65
Midili, see Lesbos
Mihai, Tudoran, Wallachian merchant
326n
Pepper purchased by (1786)
330
Milcov, river, historic frontier between Moldavia and Wallachia
486
Misir, see Egypt
Mitylini, see Lesbos
Mohács, town in Hungary
Battle of (1526)
xxii, 100
Moldavia, Romanian historic province
xiii, xxii, xxiii, 14, 16, 110, 119, 124, 129, 131, 131n, 134n, 135n, 143, 144, 145, 165, 169, 171n, 195, 208, 209, 210, 211, 212, 213, 214, 215, 216, 221, 236n, 241n, 248n, 258n, 259, 261, 262, 263, 265, 267, 310, 311, 406, 407, 409, 415, 416, 420, 421, 424, 425, 439n, 443n, 447, 449, 478, 483, 484n, 488n, 490
Allocations of food to visiting envoys in
177, 182
And the spice trade
105, 107
Bee-keeping in (17th c)
177–8, 211, 313
Beverages in (17th c)
186–9, 188n, 215, 412, 502
Cattle exports from (16th–18th c)
112
Cereal exports from
171, 234
Coffee-houses in
141, 141n2, 142, 142n
Coffee- and tea-drinking in
17, 121, 127, 128, 128n, 130, 130n, 131, 132, 134, 136, 137, 139, 140, 143
Consumption of sugar in
109
Corn cultivation in
118
Culinary practices in
18, 171, 174, 175, 184, 185, 194, 197, 198, 325n, 502
Dairy consumption in (17th c)
174
Fasting in (17th c)
192, 242
Food and dishes from (19th c)
120
Food imports in (17th c)
176
Food trade in (17th–18th c)
312n
Fruit grown in (17th c)
175
Hospitality in (17th c)
189
Hunting in (17th c)
173
Jewish population in Moldavia
479, 505n, 506, 509, 510
Jewish tavern-keepers in
486, 487–9, 491, 492, 493, 496, 498, 499, 500
Myth of ‘poisoning of beverages’ by Jews in
495, 496, 504, 504n
Myth of ‘poisoning of wells’ by Jews in
494
Kitchen- and dining-ware in (17th c)
197
Lack of cookery books in (17th c)
182
Pastrami consumed in (17th–18th c)
185, 317
Prayers and blessings of grain in (17th c)
225, 233
Ritual food in (17th c)
247
Sweeteners used in (17th c)
175
Table manners in, viewed by travellers
449–50
The consumption of millet in (17th c)
184
Monastir, see Bitola
Montenegro
xxiii, xxiv, 14, 446, 465
Moravia
312
Moria, village in Lesbos island (Greece)
Olive oil production in (16th c)
66
Moruzi, Alexandru, Prince of Wallachia
332
Moscu, Ioan Hagi, Wallachian merchant and boyar
Food purchases of
323n
Moscu the Jew, tavern-keeper in Iaşi county (Moldavia)
487
Moselle, wine-producing county in eastern France
360
Mount Athos, see Athos
Movilǎ, Moldavian ruling family
184n, 195, 211
Dinnerware in inventories of
196
Mülbach, see Sebeș
Müridoğlu, see Hacı Mehmed Ağa
Mustafa II, Sultan
57, 60, 62n2
Allocation of bread for
61, 61n
Nagybánya, see Baia Mare
Nagyszeben, see Sibiu
Nagyvárad, see Oradea
Naima Efendi, Turkish historian
218, 261
Nasi, Joseph, Duke of Naxos, Ottoman statesman of Jewish origin
487
Neale, Adam, British physician and author
406, 409, 409n, 415n2, 416n, 424
On alcoholic beverages in Moldavia (1820)
415
On refreshments in Moldavia (1820)
414
On the Romanian polenta (mămăligă)
416
On ‘wine-houses’ in the Romanian Principalities (1820)
411
Neculce, Ion, Moldavian boyar and chronicler
145, 171n, 177, 177n, 191n, 196, 223, 223n, 261
And coffee-drinking in Moldavia (16th c)
128, 128n, 129, 135, 135n
On fasting
193, 193n, 248n
Neofit Rilski, Bulgarian monk and teacher
387
Neophytos (Neofit) of Crete, Metropolitan of Wallachia
507
On Jewish tavern-keepers in Wallachia (1740s)
491
Neumarkt am Mieresch, see Târgu Mureș
Nicolantin, Antonie, Wallachian merchant
320n
Orders of luxury food of
325, 329
Niculiţă-Voronca, Elena, Romanian folklorist
190n, 214, 481n, 482n2, 504n, 510
On the adulteration of drinks in Moldavia (1903)
504
Notarás, Chrysanthos, Patriarch of Jerusalem
131, 229
Noyes, James Oskar, American physician and traveller
406, 410, 417, 424, 453, 456
On conviviality in Wallachia (1856)
437–8, 437n, 438n
On plum brandy (ţuică) in the Romanian Principalities
416, 416n
On the Romanian polenta (mămăligă)
416, 416n
O’Brien, Patrick, Irish barrister and traveller
435–6, 452, 456
On Russian quarantine stations on the Danube
436, 436n
Odorhei (Hung. Udvarhely), town in Szekely Land (Transylvania)
Oltenia, Romanian historic province in eastern Wallachia
219, 219n, 220n, 221n, 251, 313n, 314, 441
Merchants in
313, 316, 328, 329, 334
Purchases of food by boyars in
320, 322, 326, 330, 441, 441, 456
Oradea (Hung. Nagyvárad, Ger. Großwardein), vilayet of ~, town in Transylvania
114, 119, 409, 420
Jewish lease-holders in
488, 496
Orăştie (Hung. Szászváros, Ger. Broos), town in Transylvania
Inns in
410
Otetelişanu, Constantin, Wallachian boyar
Purchases of (1794, 1803)
320, 322, 327
Ottoman Empire (Sublime Porte, Ottoman Porte)
xxii, xxiii, xxiv, 5, 6, 6n, 7, 7n, 8, 13, 14n, 16, 19, 20, 24, 27, 29, 30, 33, 43n, 48, 52, 74, 75, 77, 100, 101n, 125, 126, 127, 128, 150n, 171, 196, 217, 220, 221, 226, 231, 254, 258, 265, 266, 288, 296, 304, 310, 311, 311n, 314, 337, 360n, 371, 380, 384, 426, 442, 443–4, 444n, 447, 458, 489
And ‘Balkan cuisine’
4n, 16, 17, 22, 23, 24, 113, 124, 138. 139, 141, 197, 259, 262, 350, 350n2, 368–9, 369n, 370, 378–9, 380, 381n, 384, 385, 388, 389n, 390, 393, 394, 395, 396–7, 397n, 454, 460, 465n
And exports of coffee to the Romanian Principalities and Transylvania
138
And exports of food items to East-Central Europe
246, 295, 296, 297, 299, 300, 302, 303, 304, 307–8, 323–4, 387
And the Ottoman impact on Transylvanian cuisine
99, 100, 101n, 102, 103, 104, 107, 109–11, 112, 115, 116, 119–20, 122, 162n, 165n, 166
Beverages in the
88, 89, 89n, 96, 121, 122, 411n
Coffee-houses in
143
European influences on Ottoman culinary culture
92–5, 94n, 98, 381
Ottoman culinary culture
9, 9n2, 10, 10n, 11, 11n2, 16, 17, 22, 29, 30, 33, 34, 35–6, 41, 50, 50n, 51, 51n4, 52, 57n, 64, 72, 74, 75, 76, 77, 77n, 78, 78n, 79, 80, 82, 82n, 83, 84, 84n, 85, 86, 87, 87n, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 96, 97, 98, 105, 106, 108, 111, 113, 113n, 114, 116, 117, 118, 118n, 123, 124, 125, 129n2, 145, 146, 381, 381n, 382, 387, 399, 400, 477
Romanian trade with
112, 174, 175, 239, 312–13, 313n, 314n, 315, 315n2, 316, 316n, 317, 317n, 318, 335, 336, 490, 490n
The consumption of olive oil in the
64n, 66–7, 392
Ozanne, James William, British aristocrat and journalist
406, 424
On cafés in Bucharest (1878)
411–12, 423
On eating schnitzel in the Danubian port Giurgiu (1878)
411, 411n
Paget, John, British agriculturalist and traveller
406, 406n, 407n2, 420, 420n, 422, 422n, 423, 424, 425
And inns in Transylvania (1839)
408–9, 409n, 418–19, 418n
On coffee in the Romanian Principalities
415, 415n
On Gypsy music at dinners in Transylvania
418
On meat dishes in Transylvania
417, 417n
On the Romanian polenta (mămăligă)
416, 416n
On wine-making in Transylvania
413, 413n
Pahomie, Abbott of Hurezi Monastery
And purchases of caviar (early 19th c)
321
Pann, Anton, Romanian poet, folklorist and musician
483, 483n, 507
Papazoglu, Dumitraki, Balkan merchant in Wallachia
317, 317n, 336
Papazoglu, Andrei Nicolae, Balkan merchant in Wallachia
And the trade in luxury items in Wallachia (18th c)
327n
Paris, capital of France
Congress of
xxiii
Passarowitz (Požarevac), Serbian village
Treaty of (1718)
219
Paton, Archibald Andrew, British diplomat
406, 422, 422n, 424
On inns at Sibiu (Transylvania) (1850)
410, 410n, 416, 416n, 420, 420n
Paul of Aleppo (Paul de Alep), Syrian archdeacon
209, 261
On beverages and drinking habits in Moldavia
187, 187n, 188, 188n
On dinnerware in elite households
196, 196n
On fasting in the Romanian Principalities
192–3, 192n, 193n, 244, 244n
On fishing in Moldavia
172, 172n
On fruit trees in Moldavia (17th c)
175, 175n2
On funeral feast in the Romanian Principalities
225–6, 226n, 227n, 251, 251n2
On gifting rituals
226, 226n
On gifts of food to visiting dignitaries in Moldavia
176, 176, 176n2,183, 183n, 185n,188, 188n
On kitchen stoves in Moldavia
179, 179n
On official banquets in the Romanian Principalities
254, 254n2
On ritual bread in Moldavia
192, 192n
On the baking of bread in the Romanian Principalities
234, 234n
On the blessing of food at Easter
193, 193n, 225, 225n
On the slaughter of pigs at Christmas
256, 256n
Pătrășcanu, Dumitru D., Romanian writer
501
Păunica, wife of Transylvanian merchant Hagi Constantin Pop
323, 327n
Pârşcoveanu, Ştefan, Wallachia boyar
And acclimatizing lemon trees in Wallachia (18th c)
328
Peloponnese, peninsula in south-eastern Greece
xxiii, 218n, 460, 461, 471
Maxim of Peloponnese
228, 261
Pera, district of Istanbul
465
Cafés at (1850s)
94
Night bars run by Christians at (16th c)
122
Pesta, see Budapest
Peşta, see Budapest
Petki, István, Transylvanian (Székely), district captain in Székely Land
And seating order in noble manors (18th c)
158
Petru, German gardener in Wallachia
328
Phanar, Greek Christian quarter of Istanbul
Phanariot regimes in the Romanian Principalities
101, 253n, 264, 439, 439n2, 441, 442–3, 443n, 444
Philippidis, Daniel, Greek scholar
461, 461n, 474
Philippopoli (Plovdiv), town in Bulgaria
395, 400, 464, 464n
Pilat, the Jew, Jewish guild master in Bucharest
489
Pliny the Elder (Gaius Plinius Secundus), Latin historic and naturalist
352, 359, 361n, 413
Plovdiv, see Philippopoli
Poland
211, 221, 225n, 311, 415n, 441, 478
Jewish inn-keepers in
24, 479n, 489, 495, 496, 508
Politis, Nikolaos, Greek diplomat and scholar
466–7, 466n, 467n, 468, 468n, 474
Pop, Constantin Hagi, Wallachian merchant
320, 320n2, 321, 322, 323, 324, 325, 326, 326n2, 327, 327n, 328, 328n, 334, 442, 456
And the trade in luxury items in Oltenia (Wallachia) (18th–19th c)
329, 330, 331, 441, 441n
Popovici, Cernea, Wallachian merchant
324, 326
Popovič-Midžina, Katarina, Serbian writer
381n, 390n, 399
Požarevac, see Passarowitz
Praid (Hung. Parajd, Ger. Salzberg), salt-mine in Transylvania
408
Probota, Monastery in Moldavia
176, 179, 179n, 215
Provence (‘Provenţiia’), region in south-eastern France
Olive oil from
323, 441
Qahve Bashi, (unlocated) place name in Moldavia
129
Quintinie, Jean-Baptiste de la, French lawyer and gardener
352n
Rabi‘a Sultan, mother of Prince İbrahim and Prince Selim
Allocations of food for
60n
Racoviţă, Mihai, Prince of Moldavia
135, 135n, 165
Radvánszky, Bela, historian
124, 153n2, 154n, 168, 169, 306n, 309
Author of cookery books
99n, 104n, 107, 111, 114n2, 115n, 116n, 117n
Radziwiłł, Janusz, Polish magnate, son-in-law of Voivode (ruling prince) Vasile Lupu
Wedding banquet of (1645)
185, 194
Ragusa (Dubrovnik), port in Dalmatia (Croatia)
8, 259, 315n, 360, 406
Raicevich, Stephan Ignaz, Austrian diplomat in Wallachia
261, 489
On Greek merchants in Wallachia (18th c)
315n
Rákóczi, György I, Prince of Transylvania, father of ~ György II
164, 220n, 267, 275
Rákóczi György II, Prince of Transylvania, son of ~ György I
164
Rákóczy, Ferenc II, Prince of Transylvania
xxii
Rákóczy, Hungarian noble family
Rákóczi Inn in Transylvania
419
Rålamb, Claes Brorson, Swedish diplomat
254n2, 257
Ramsay, Gustaf Adolf, Finnish officer
449, 449n
Rebreanu, Liviu, Romanian writer
507
And reference to Jewish inn-keepers (1920)
482, 482n
Reclus, Jacques Elisée, French geographer and writer
462
Renan, Ernest, French linguist, philosopher and writer
468n, 474
Rhine Valley (‘Renu’), region in Germany
Wine from, imported to the Romanian Principalities (18th c)
322
Romanian Principalities; see Danubian Principalities, Moldavia and Wallachia
Roumelia (Roumeli, Turkey-in-Europe), historical name for the Balkans
246, 247, 470
Russia
Russian quarantine stations and officials on the Danube
23, 436
Russian influence in the Romanian Principalities
xxii, xxiii, 128, 140, 223, 234, 239, 318, 318n, 319, 325, 336, 436, 448, 451, 452, 490
Rycaut, Paul Sir, British scholar and traveller
231, 231n, 261, 371
On the Bosnian drink hardali
360n
Sadoveanu, Mihail, Romanian writer
508
And drinking habits in Romania
482, 482n
Šafárik, Pavel Jozef, Slovak linguist and Slavist
462
Safranu, Manicati, Balkan merchant from Transylvania
And the trade in luxury items in the Romanian Principalities
323n, 327n
Sagiaxis, Georgios, Greek ethnographer and linguist
469
Saint Sava, Monastery in Iași (Moldavia)
And petition against coffee-houses in Moldavia (1790)
142
Saint Spiridon, Monastery in Moldavia
And food purchases in 1772–1800
137
Salona, see Amphissa
Salzberg, see Praid
Sarajevo
14, 14n, 22, 377, 387, 390
And influence on Bulgarian cuisine
397
Bosnian culinary culture in
360, 387, 388
Sava, Ioan Tetoveanul, Wallachian merchant
And the coffee trade in Wallachia
325
Saz, Leyla (Leyla Hanimefendi), Turkish composer and writer
On consumption at Çirağan Palace (Istanbul) (19th–20th c)
89–90, 90n
Scappi, Bartolomeo, Italian cook
371, 374
And influence on Romanian gastronomy
349–50, 350n, 361, 361n, 368
Author of Opera dell’arte del cucinare (1570)
346, 347, 347n, 348n
European influence of
347, 347n2, 370n
Schässburg, see Sighișoara
Schmidl, Adolf, German traveller
On Jewish-run taverns in Transylvania (19th c)
485, 485n
Schwanz von Springfels, Friedrich, German traveller
On the Romanian polenta (mămăligă)
238, 238n
Sebeş (Hung. Szászsebes, Ger. Mülbach), town in Transylvania
Vineyards around (1865)
413
Segesvár, see Sighișoara
Selim I, Sultan
53, 60n
And coffee ritual
129
Serbia
xxii, xxiii, xxiv, 14, 34, 103n, 378, 380, 388, 388n, 397, 446, 465
Serbian cookbooks
379, 381, 386, 386n, 387, 390n, 393n, 397, 398, 399
Serbian influences on Bulgarian cooking
383, 387, 393, 394
Șerban, Constantin, Voivode (ruling prince) of Wallachia
226, 249n, 257
Serres, Olivier de, French author and soil scientist
352
Sestini, Domenico, Italian traveller
47, 261
On the Romanian polenta (mămăligă)
239, 239n
On food in funerary rites in the Romanian Principalities
251, 251n2
Sibiu (Hung. Nagyszeben, Ger. Hermannstadt), town in Transylvania
19, 20, 106n, 144, 295, 297, 301, 301n, 302, 307, 308, 310, 328n, 330n, 334, 337, 405, 407, 408, 410
And the spice trade
298, 298n2, 299, 299n, 302, 302n, 308
And the trade in luxury foodstuffs
320, 322, 323n, 326, 327, 327n, 328, 456
Coffee and tobacco in the customs registers of
305
Citrus fruit in the customs registers of
305
Customs accounts of (17th c)
295, 295n, 296, 296n, 297, 297n, 298, 310
Ginger in the customs registers of
301
Olive oil in the customs registers of
305, 305n
Raisins in the customs registers of
303, 303n
Rice in the customs registers of
304, 304n
Saffron in the customs registers of
300, 300n
Snails in the customs registers of
306
Siebenbürgen, see Transylvania
Sighișoara (Hung. Segesvár, Ger. Schässburg), city in southern Transylvania
Millers’ guilds in (16th c)
278
Tablecloths made in
153
Simeon, Bishop of Thessaloniki
And the origins of the Romanian funerary cake coliva
252, 252n
Skene, James, Scottish traveller and writer
410, 410n, 424
Slaveikov, Petko R., Bulgarian poet, journalist and folklorist
12n, 30, 377, 377n2, 399
As author of Bulgarian cookbook (1870)
384, 384n, 385, 385n, 386n, 387, 397, 398, 399
Smith, John, British mercenary and traveller
407, 417, 424
On sherbet in Transylvania (1601)
414, 414n
Smrikarov-Samokovec, Dimitri, Bulgarian writer
21n, 377, 377n
As author of Bulgarian cookbook (1874)
377, 378, 379, 380, 384, 386, 387, 387n, 388, 388n, 390n, 391, 392, 392n, 393, 394, 394n, 396, 397, 397n, 398, 399
On akitma
395
On tarhana
389
South and Central America, see America
South-East Asia, see Asia
South-East Europe, Europe
3, 4n
Soutsos (Suţu), Ruxandra, Wallachian Princess
439n
Sugar centrepiece at wedding banquet of
439, 442, 443, 444
Spain
322, 346, 440
Staszic, Stanisław, Polish politician
And negative views on Jewish-run taverns in Poland
495
Stefani, Bartolomeo, Italian cook
Author of L’Arte di ben cucinare (1662)
348, 370n
Influence of on Romanian culinary culture
348, 350, 361
Steriady (Colonelu), Ecaterina, Romanian writer
Author of Buna menajeră (1871)
381n, 399
Stoenescu, Milco, Wallachian merchant
313
Stoker, Bram, British writer
23, 24, 417, 417n
Strassbourg, Paul, Alsatian diplomat and traveller
220, 249n, 254n
Straßburg am Mieresch, see Aiud
Sublime Porte, see Ottoman Empire
Suceviţa, Monastery in Moldavia
170, 172, 174, 175, 180n, 183, 184, 195, 196, 199, 200, 201, 202, 203, 204, 205
Sulzer, Franz Joseph, Austrian historian and ethnologist
261
On Jewish-run distilleries and taverns in the Romanian Principalities (1781)
489, 489n
Szalay, Pál, Transylvanian court cook, ennobled (1580)
157
Szatmár (Rom. Sătmar, Ger. Sathmar), county in Transylvania
Jewish brewers in (1723)
488
Széchenyi, István, Hungarian count and entrepreneur
410n
Székely Land (Ţara Secuiască), historic region in eastern Transylvania
101, 112, 149, 150n, 151n, 152, 152n, 153, 153n, 161, 162n, 168, 169, 422n
The production of beer in (16th–17th c)
165, 165n
Székely, Laszlo, Transylvanian (Székely) noble
155
Székely, Ádám, count, chairman of the Transylvanian treasury, son of ~ Laszlo
156, 156n
Széki, István, Transylvanian General Tax Collector
Wedding banquet of (1691)
166
Szenczi Molnár, Albert, Transylvanian Protestant priest and scholar
168
On the use of paprika in Hungarian cuisine (17th c)
163n
Ştirbei, Barbu, Prince of Wallachia
And purchases of food (1781)
322, 326, 328, 328n, 331
Ştirbei, Dumitrana, Wallachian boyar lady
And purchases of food (1780)
325, 327n, 328n
Tanara, Vincenzo, Italian agronomist
348n, 350, 352, 358, 371
Thasos, island (Tr. Taşöz)
And the production of olive oil (16th c)
66
Tăutu, Ioan, Great Logothete in Moldavia
And the beginnings of coffee-drinking in the Romanian Principalities
128, 128n, 129, 146
Târgu Mureș (Hung. Marosvásárhely, Ger. Neumarkt am Mieresch), town in central
Transylvania
1 ,
2
Teleki, Emma, Hungarian countess
118n, 407
Teleki, Mihály, Transylvanian count, chancellor
Castle inventory of (1689)
151–2, 151n
Temeschwar, see Timişoara
Temesvár, see Timişoara
Teodosie, cattle dealer (gelep) from Wallachia
And the trade in livestock in the Romanian Principalities
315n
Thessaloniki
312n, 460n, 461, 462n, 469, 469n, 475, 476, 477
Sweets and coffee-shops in
465
Thessaly, historic region in Greece
259, 460, 461, 462n, 466, 471n
Thúry, József, Hungarian Turcologist
102, 102n
Timișoara (vilayet of ~) (Hung. Temesvár, Ger. Temeschwar), city in western Romania
119, 260
Jewish distillery and brewery in (1717)
488
Tiraqueau, André, French jurist
351, 351n, 371
‘Toader from Braşov’, kahvecı in Moldavia
142
‘Tocaia’, see Tokay
Tokay, wine-producing district in Hungary
322, 323n, 441
Tököly, Imre, Voivode (ruling prince) of Transylvania
100, 114
Topkapı Palace, first Istanbul residence of the Ottoman Sultans in the early modern period
41n, 47, 50n, 52n, 53n, 72, 73, 75, 80
Tótfalusi Kis, Miklós, Transylvanian publisher and writer
99n, 100n
Author of cookbook (1798)
100n, 104, 104n2, 107, 109, 110n, 111n, 119n, 124, 342n, 373
Townson, Robert, British traveller
424
And impressions of conviviality in Transylvania
406, 409, 409n, 415, 415n
Trabzon (Trebizond)
xxii, 129, 245
Transylvania (Transilvania, Erdély, Siebenbürgen)
xxii, 6, 7, 8, 14, 15, 18, 19, 20, 23, 24, 26, 100, 102, 103n, 105, 106, 106n2, 119, 138, 138n, 148, 151n2, 153n, 154n, 156n, 157n, 168, 169, 174, 180, 197, 215, 218, 219, 229, 239, 242n, 247, 256, 259, 262, 267, 271, 272, 273, 275n, 278n, 291, 292, 296, 328n, 397, 406
And the import of Habarnicza (squid) (16–17th c)
306
And the origins of goulash (gulyás)
115, 115n
Beverages and drinking in
175, 187, 450n
Boza and braga consumed in
121
Coffee-drinking and tobacco in
164, 189n, 305n, 310
Eating habits in
150, 150n2, 151, 152, 153, 154, 155, 164, 165, 166, 167, 183
Food and gastronomy in
13, 18, 100n, 103, 108–9, 112, 117, 118, 120, 120n, 121, 150, 157, 158–9,158–59n, 161, 162, 163, 164, 167, 182n, 245, 293, 343n, 348, 369, 374, 380n, 389n, 405
Gifts of food among nobles in
160
Guilds in
192
Jewish inn-keepers in
485, 488, 492, 494, 496, 503
Merchants and trade in
138, 138n, 140, 186, 239, 249, 293, 296, 298, 303, 305, 306, 307, 309, 310, 312, 320, 322, 325, 325n, 327, 330n, 331, 337, 441
Mills in (16–17th c)
277, 277n
The consumption of meat in (17–19th c)
112, 113, 115, 158–9, 284
The Ottoman impact on the cuisine of
16, 17, 31, 99, 101, 102, 103–4, 105, 107, 108, 109, 110–11, 113, 116, 116n, 119, 121, 122, 162n, 165n, 308, 393n
The pané cooking technique used in
114
The spice trade in
295, 296, 297, 298, 298n, 299, 301, 302, 308
West-European travellers in (18th–19th c)
405–25, 428, 433n, 434, 434n, 450
Trebizond (Trabzon), city in Turkey
xxii, 129, 245
Tsarigrad (Rom. Ţarigrad,), see Constantinople, Istanbul
Tschakturn, see Čakovec
Türabi Efendi, Ottoman gentleman and writer, translator of The Refuge of Cooks (1864)
79, 79n, 90n, 92n, 96
Turia de Jos (Hung. Also Torja), village in Székely Land (Transylvania)
Curia of Apor Lázár at
158
Kitchen at the manor of the Kálnoky family at
159, 165
Тŭrnovo (Veliko ~), city in northern Bulgaria
383
Twardowski, Samuel, Polish writer
On wines in Transylvania (1622)
412n
Țara Bârsei (Ger. Burzenland), region in south-eastern Transylvania
Millers’ guilds in
278
Țara Românească, see Wallachia
Țara Secuiască, see Székely Land
Ümmügülsüm Sultan, daughter of Mehmed IV
Allocations of coffee for (1692)
71
Valea Crişului (Hung. Köröspatak), village in Székely Land (Transylvania)
Dining room in the house of Count Kálnoky Sámuel at (1689)
151
Váralja, mediaeval suburb of the city of Cluj (Transylvania)
Mills at (late 16th c)
274, 274n
Varlaam, Metropolitan of Moldavia
180n, 190n, 191n, 192n, 209, 262
On fasting (1643)
242, 242n
Varna, city in Bulgaria
And trade routes in the Balkans
312n
Akitma served at table near (1826)
395
Varro (Marcus Terentius), Latin author and agriculturist
351
Văcărescu, noble family from Wallachia
334
Dinnerware of (1771)
326, 331
Venice, city in Italy
11, 105, 225, 234n, 252, 257n, 267, 348, 348n, 349
And trade with the Romanian Principalities
246, 265, 298, 309, 326
Vienna (Beci, Wien),
11, 67, 138n, 151, 151n, 405, 424, 436, 447, 478, 488
And trade with the Romanian Principalities
312n, 326, 330
And Transylvanian trade
138n, 154, 272, 298, 299, 299n, 302, 312
‘Little Vienna’, nickname for the Danubian port Ruschuk
452
Sales of Transylvanian mineral water in (1878)
414, 414n
Viquesnel, Auguste, French traveller
462
Voiculescu, Vasile, Romanian poet and writer
And the myth of drink poisoning by Jewish inn-keepers
501
Vojvodina, region in Serbia
Culinary traditions in
378, 388, 393, 394, 397
Walker, Mary, British traveller
425
On Transylvanian hotels (1888)
410, 410n, 411, 412, 412n
Wallachia (Ţara Românească), Romanian historic province
xxii, xxiii, 14, 17, 18, 19, 21, 54, 54n, 118n, 124, 130n, 134n, 135n, 136, 142n, 144, 145, 169, 208, 209, 210, 214, 216, 406, 407, 421, 424, 425, 439n2, 442, 454, 478, 490, 506
And food trade
112, 185, 185n, 311–38, 441–2, 456
And Jewish inn-keepers
488, 489, 491
And the concept of a ‘Balkan cuisine’
466
And the spice trade
105
Beverages and drinking in
165, 215, 412, 416n, 486, 495
Coffee-drinking in
127, 128, 128n, 136, 137, 139, 140, 141, 141n3, 142, 143
Cookery books in
182, 342
European influences on the food culture of
22, 422, 438, 454
Exports of salt from
86
Farming and food culture in
107, 109, 118, 177, 217–67, 359, 411n, 464
Hospitality and conviviality in
409, 410, 411, 430–1, 432, 434, 434n, 435, 437, 439, 448, 451
Ottoman influences on the gastronomy of
119, 141, 452
Tea-drinking in
140
Walsh, Robert, Irish priest and traveller
406, 425, 456
On akitma (kŭtmi) served in Bulgaria (1827)
395
On pub landlord in Transylvania (1827)
450, 450n3
On the drinking habits of Bucharest residents (1827)
450
Wesselényi, noble family from Transylvania
282, 282n, 291
Wesselényi, Polixena, Hungarian countess
406, 406n
Whyte-Melville, George, British writer and traveller
451, 451n, 453, 456
And perceptions of German influences in Wallachia
452
And perceptions of French influences in Bucharest
452
Wilkinson, William, British diplomat
406, 419, 419n, 425
On ‘brandy shops’ in the Romanian Principalities (1820)
411
On social inequality in Transylvania (1820)
421, 421n
On the Romanian polenta (mămăligă) (1820)
416, 416n2
Wolf, Andreas, German doctor in Wallachia
132n
On coffee-drinking in the Romanian Principalities (1784)
136n, 325n
Yankel, Jewish tavern-keeper in Adam Mickiewicz’s poem Pan Tadeusz
479n, 484, 484n, 496, 505, 508
Yemen (‘Emen’)
Coffee from
138, 246, 324
Yıldız Palace, former Istanbul residence of the Ottoman Sultans in the 19th century
80, 82n, 95
Dairy at
83
Kitchens at
81
Ypsilantis Alexandros, Prince of Moldavia and Wallachia, see Ipsilanti, Alexandru
Zamfirache, Gheorghe Hagi, Wallachian merchant
330
Zápolya, János, Voivode of Transylvania, King of Hungary
100, 286, 286n
Zrinski, Nicholas VII, Croatian nobleman
8, 12n, 29, 30, 341, 343n, 344, 356, 358, 369, 373, 374, 375
Manuscript recipe collections in the library of
351, 352, 353, 355, 357, 358, 358n, 359, 363n, 367, 368
Vineyards and cellars on the domains of
350, 350n
West- and Central European influences at the court of
22, 342n, 347, 347n, 348, 348n, 368
Zygabenos, Euthymios, Greek scholar
Against the use of unleavened bread in the sacrament (1710)
228–9, 228n