Figures

1 Padum, August 2012 6

2 Overview of Padum from the top of old Padum. July 2017 7

3 Stratification of Zanskari Buddhist and Muslim society 9

4 “Scheduled tribe” certificate of a Muslim from Padum. 2007 15

5 Zanskar valley from Penzi La pass. July 2017 26

6 Stone carvings of Stupas and Buddhas in Padum – July 2009 30

7 King of Padum, Puntsok L’Dawa. 2004 33

8 Main bazar in Padum, 2017 36

9 Meme Abdul Aziz and his wife Abi Fatima Bemo, a Muslim–Buddhist marriage, 2005 38

10 Mother and children from Padum. July 2015 41

11 Kinship terminology (G+1, G+2 and G+3) in Zanskar with phonetic transcription as pronounced in Zanskar 41

12 Padumpa child doing homework – Padum. August 2005 44

13 Secretary working in Urdu language in tehsildar office, 2011 46

14 Main bazar, Padum. July 2017 52

15 Woman carrying barley, August 2009 54

16 Working the fields in Karsha, July 2011 55

17 Woman making roasted barley, September 2011 56

18 Woman sifts the roasted barley, September 2011 56

19 Water mill, July 2007 57

20 Churning butter, July 2017 58

21 Butter churn, July 2015 58

22 (1–2) Lumps of fresh butter, July 2015 59

23 Circulation of agricultural currency and cash 61

24 Circulation of currencies since 1980 65

25 Police check-point in Abran-Zanskar. July 2015 68

26 Seasonal workers – main bazar, Padum. August 2009 70

27 Tourism in Zanskar between 1990 and 2019 72

28 Foreign and Indian tourists in Zanskar between 2013 and 2019 72

29 Tourist taking a selfie with young Buddhist boys. Karsha festival. July 2017 73

30 (1–2) New D Yak guest house – rooms with en-suite bathrooms. Padum. July 2015 74

31 Drawing of the first floor of Meme Abdul Aziz’s house in 2004 74

32 Drawing of the entresol of Meme Abdul Aziz’s house in 2004 75

33 Drawing of the first floor of D-Yak guesthouse in 2019 75

34 Drawing of the entresol of D-Yak guesthouse, 2019 76

35 Buddhist shop – main bazar, Padum. July 2017 80

36 Vegetable shop – main bazar, Padum. July 2017 81

37 A pir from Baltistan in the house of Iqbal and Zoubida, July 2009 83

38 Mosque in Padum, built in the 1990s. July 2015 85

39 Casual visit of Buddhist women to a Muslim household, Padum, July 2009 87

40 Making business – selling Muslim prayer carpet – in front of the Buddhist prayer-mill, August 2015 89

41 Young girls ready to celebrate Aïd Al Kebir 93

42 Iqbal and Zoubida with their three daughters and their daughter-in-law (left, in a black veil), July 2015 93

43 Buddhist women at the Karsha’s Gompa festival, July 2017 96

44 Young woman going along field path, Padum, July 2017 102

45 Girls attending Karsha monastery festival. July 2017 103

46 Girls in the main bazar. Padum. July 2017 104

47 Padum. July 2015 106

48 My daughter playing with Kapla in a Kargil tea shop with Kargili boy, Tibetan teacher, and Kashmiri girl, 2017 107

49 The Imam of Padum and Buddhist monks from the monastery in Padum conversing in Padum’s main street, August 2009 113

50 Canadian and American medical team, 16.07.2017 117

51 (1–2) New Men-Tsee-Khang of Padum, inaugural day, speech by the Councillor of Kargil, 16 July 2017 117

52 Visit of the Dalai Lama to the modern public school, Padum, 18 July 2017 118

53 Monk at the Karsha monastery festival in July 2017, Zanskar 121

54 Transmission from the elders to the younger generation, from Zanskarpa to foreigners, Padum, August 2009 126

Tables

1 Official census from the statistical handbook district Kargil 2019–20 8

2 Male–female population in Zanskar, July 2003 8

3 Statistical handbook of Kargil, giving the religious census for the whole district, including Zanskar 8

4 Buddhist and Muslim population census in Padum, January 2005 9

5 The seasonality of currency 64

Maps

1 Region of Ladakh and Zanskar, Federal State of Jammu and Kashmir, India 5