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Index

‘Beautiful Stranger’ 177 , 186–187n22 , 187n23 , 189 , 189n26 , 194
‘Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body’ 177 , 179n9 , 180
‘bubble up’ 49
‘drunk’ materials 5 , 94
‘fairytale chair’ 104
‘Hard Chic’ 77
‘low profile’ cities 23
‘Renew Newcastle’ 30 , 30n104
‘second tier’ cities 23
‘Strike a Pose’ 177 , 183–186 , 193
‘Tailored Mosaic’ 9 , 228–234 , 234n19 , 235–236 , 238–240 , 240n37 , 241–244 , 246
‘The Exotic Body’ 77
‘The Surreal Body’ 77
‘The Valley’ 31
‘Ugly Chic’ 77 , 79n25 , 87
2Fik 9–10 , 203 , 243 , 247–249 , 251 , 252n17 , 253–254 , 254n24 , 254n25 , 255–258 , 258n26 , 259 , 259n29 , 260 , 261n33 , 262–265
a-list 143
Abano 232 , 232n15 , 244
abc 15n1 , 15n4 , 210
Abdel 254n24
abject 6 , 114–115 , 119–120 , 127
Abrahams, Sarah L. 16n11 , 26n73
abstract 77 , 178 , 185 , 188 , 234 , 250
Academic Mintel 53n47
Acne 160–161
Adam 100 , 100n58 , 100n59 , 140 , 145 , 149 , 234
Adam and Eve 234
aesthetic 32 , 35–37 , 42 , 46 , 48 , 51 , 80 , 102 , 109 , 116 , 119–120 , 132n3 , 145 , 148 , 152 , 156 , 158 , 160 , 162 , 164 , 165 , 169 , 208 , 240 , 243 , 249 , 277
aesthetics 6–7 , 16n11 , 20–21 , 26n73 , 35 , 47n16 , 63 , 68 , 86 , 89n3 , 102n66 , 102n67 , 102n69 , 109 , 155 , 158–159 , 170 , 179–180 , 210 , 210n57 , 226 , 230
Africa 9 , 17 , 217
agency 10 , 46n10 , 66 , 72 , 80n27 , 80n29 , 81 , 84–87 , 118 , 218n96 , 222 , 251 , 255–256 , 270 , 274 , 276 , 277n43 , 279–280 , 282–283
Ahmed, Sara 206n44
Aislinn 55 , 55n58 , 56
Akal, Shari 8–10 , 118 , 197 , 230 , 243
alchemist 94
Aldridge, Miles 114 , 119n27 , 120 , 120n29 , 122 , 126–127 , 129
Alice 10 , 33 , 254n24 , 255 , 256 , 257 , 258 , 279–281
Alice Nightingale 28 , 28n92 , 31n110 , 32n116 , 33n120 , 36 , 36n139 , 37 , 38
alienation 73–74 , 76 , 80 , 86
Allen, Clare 132n2 , 148 , 217 , 225
Allure 5 , 122
Amalfi 232n15 , 244
American 27n79 , 32n113 , 39–40 , 60n69 , 67 , 75n15 , 78 , 81n30 , 83 , 84n39 , 87 , 141n47 , 144n64 , 149 , 200n13 , 206n43 , 223 , 230n8 , 232 , 239 , 246 , 250 , 252 , 254
Amish 243
anachronistic 122
Andersen, Lisa 22n44
Anderson, Sherry Ruth 37 , 105n82 , 108
Anibundel 228n4 , 229n6 , 244
Anisiobi, John 218n96 , 222
anorexia 116
anthropology 4 , 42 , 72 , 86 , 151n1 , 158n13 , 173–174
Anthropology from a Pragmatic Point of View 158 , 158n13 , 174
anxieties 119 , 128
apparel 9–10 , 38 , 175 , 179 , 189 , 191 , 198n3 , 210 , 214n77 , 223 , 234 , 241 , 243 , 266–267 , 269 , 280 , 282
appearance 47 , 85 , 113 , 121 , 127 , 146 , 169 , 198n3 , 210 , 210n57 , 211 , 213 , 216 , 226 , 230 , 235 , 249 , 252 , 259 , 261 , 269
appetite 114 , 116–117 , 119n25 , 120–122 , 124–125 , 127–129
Arabic 235 , 257–258
archaeologist 85
archaeology 72 , 72n9 , 85n41 , 87
Archer, Michael 260 , 260n31 , 264
Archer, Newland 270
archive 4 , 43–44 , 53–54 , 55n58 , 56 , 56n59 , 60n70 , 63 , 65 , 69–70 , 82 , 84–85 , 97n51 , 151 , 166
Armstrong, Gary 90n10 , 108
Arnold, Rebecca 48n24 , 54n55 , 66 , 119n24 , 122 , 122n33 , 130
Arnould, Eric J. 26n77
Art of the Trench 135 , 145 , 145n68 , 146–148
artefact 20 , 35 , 71 , 78 , 85
Artforum 247 , 247n1 , 251 , 251n14 , 252 , 252n18 , 263 , 263n45 , 264
artification 152 , 152n3 , 174
artifice 253
artifying 152
artigiano 17 , 20
artire 17
artisan 4 , 17–19 , 27 , 35 , 88 , 92 , 99 , 106
artisanal 1 , 3–4 , 15–17 , 18 , 18n20 , 18n21 , 18n26 , 19 , 20 , 20n33 , 21 , 21n37 , 22–25 , 25n71 , 26 , 26n76 , 27–35 , 35n133 , 36 , 37 , 39–41 , 90 , 92–93 , 93n25 , 95 , 108
artisanal fashion practice 18 , 20 , 21n37 , 25n71 , 28
artist 1 , 9 , 19 , 25 , 30n100 , 33 , 35 , 40 , 69 , 71 , 73 , 88 , 119n27 , 125n41 , 128 , 131 , 152–153 , 161 , 166 , 176–177 , 199 , 203 , 212–213 , 216 , 218 , 220 , 230 , 243 , 248–249 , 251–254 , 259n29 , 260 , 261n63 , 262–265 , 275
artitus 17
Arvanitidou, Zoi 209n55 , 222
atelier 1 , 20 , 163–164
Auge, Marc 151n1 , 173
Austen, Jane 266
Australia 3 , 6 , 15n6 , 22n44 , 23n53 , 28 , 28n89 , 29n98 , 30n100 , 37–38 , 40 , 200n12
Australian Vogue 229
authenticity 18 , 197 , 235 , 237 , 240 , 243–244
authorial intention 73 , 81 , 83
authority 115 , 133–134 , 136–140 , 142–143 , 145–147
Baerveldt, Cor 223
Bahbah, Sarah 6 , 114 , 127 , 127n52 , 129 , 130
Bahn, Kenneth D. 159 , 159n16 , 173
Baker, Dorothy 10 , 276n41 , 277n44 , 283
Baker, Ted 145
Bakhtin, Mikhail 6 , 114–115 , 115n9 , 115n11 , 118 , 120 , 120n30 , 123 , 123n36 , 125 , 126 , 126n49 , 127n53 , 129–130 , 221 , 221n99 , 223
Bakshi, Sandeep 202n22 , 212n67 , 214n80 , 222
Bala, Divya 29n98 , 37
Balbi, Gabriele 105n77 , 106n85 , 107
Balenciaga 243 , 243n47 , 245 , 253
Ballard, Bettina 83n37 , 86
ballerina flats 57
Balzer, Carsten 199 , 199n9 , 222
Banks, Marcus 201n17 , 205n34 , 222
Banks, Mark 41
Bannister, Jenny 35n128 , 37
Barbie 209
Barbour 43
Barker, Lauren 31n108 , 33n118 , 37
Barnard, Malcolm 42n4 , 46n14 , 50n35 , 59n67 , 66 , 193
Barnes, Liz 33 , 33n121 , 37
Barnes, Sarah 126n46 , 130
Baroque 97 , 124
Barouch, Judy 38
Barthes, Roland 46n8 , 66 , 113 , 113n1 , 130 , 132n1 , 148
Baudelaire, Charles 48n25 , 66
Baudrillard, Jean 218 , 218n93 , 261 , 262 , 262n40 , 264
Baumann, Shyon 116 , 116n13 , 117n16 , 130–131
bawdy 123–124 , 127
bdsm 122
Beasley, Ron 193
Beaton, Cecil 69 , 82–84
Beckham, David 230
Beene, Geoffrey 243 , 243n46 , 246
Belk, Russell W. 159 , 159n16 , 173
belt 55 , 58–59
bendability 260
Bendiner, Kenneth 123 , 123n35 , 130
Benjamin 10 , 254n24 , 255 , 257 , 258 , 259
Benjamin, Walter 48n26 , 66 , 73 , 73n11 , 74 , 78 , 80 , 86 , 171 , 171n23 , 173
Bennett, Andy 53n48 , 54n51 , 66
bentwood 99 , 99n57 , 187
beret 56
Berger, John 120 , 120n28 , 130 , 193
Berlin, Bert 187n24
Berry, Jess 6 , 113 , 133n7 , 146 , 148
bespoke 15 , 15n1 , 15n4 , 21 , 28 , 163
Between Here & There 169–170
Bible 234
bicycle 53 , 104
bigender 198 , 198n4
binary 8 , 118 , 198 , 200 , 203 , 205 , 208 , 211 , 213 , 216 , 220 , 253 , 262 , 264
Bintang, Eko 84n39
BioCouture 103 , 103n72
biography 2 , 4 , 69 , 71 , 72 , 72n7 , 72n9 , 73 , 77–78 , 80–81 , 83 , 85 , 85n41 , 86 , 87 , 243 , 250
Black, Sandy 193
Blackberry 96
Blackmore, Cecile 31n110 , 38
Blanks, Tim 193
Bless Shop 154
bloggers 1 , 6 , 49–50 , 132–136 , 136n15 , 138–140 , 142–147 , 150 , 237
blogging 1 , 135n8 , 136 , 141 , 143–144 , 144n66 , 148
blogosphere 143–144
blogs 6 , 35 , 44 , 44n6 , 48n28 , 50n37 , 51 , 54 , 67 , 80 , 102n71 , 108 , 126n47 , 131 , 132 , 132n4 , 133 , 134 , 135 , 135n8 , 136 , 136n15 , 136n16 , 138 , 140 , 141 , 141n43 , 142–143 , 144 , 144n64 , 146–148 , 150 , 229 , 239n35 , 246
Blomberg, Sven 193
Bluetooth 101
Blum, Dilys E. 74n14 , 81 , 82 , 82n33 , 83n36 , 86
Boateng, Oswald 27
bohemian 275
Boje, Thomas 38
Boje, Andrew 77 , 86
Bond Street 164
bondage 49 , 122
boots 8 , 43 , 56–57 , 59 , 62 , 187 , 189–190 , 199n7 , 225 , 277
borders 250 , 263
Bordo, Susan 193
borgo 96
Bourdieu, Pierre 6 , 21 , 133–134 , 137 , 137n21 , 137n22 , 138–141 , 143 , 145–149
Bourdin, Guy 122
bourgeois 115
boutique 19 , 19n27 , 26n74 , 31 , 53 , 141n41 , 152 , 160 , 164
Bouvier 278
Bovone, Laura 46n7 , 47n20 , 47n21 , 48n22 , 66–67
Bowden, Ross 80n29 , 86
Brach, Ann Margaret 47n20 , 66
Bradford, Julie 139n34 , 148
Braithwaite, Naomi Joanna 3–4 , 42 , 146 , 276–277 , 277n43 , 283
Brand, Nicki 249
brand-building 172–173
brand/designer hierarchy 140
brandscaping 7 , 151 , 153–154 , 160 , 172–173
brandtelling 163
bras bas 182
Breakfast at Tiffany’s 166 , 166n20 , 173
Bremser, Martha 193
Breward, Christopher 5 , 5n6 , 11 , 54n52 , 67
bricks and mortar 28
bricolage 59
bricoleur 59 , 61
bridal 17n15 , 81 , 267–268 , 270 , 281
Brisbane 3 , 28 , 29n94 , 29n95 , 30n99 , 32 , 35n129 , 38–39
Britain 21 , 81 , 165
British Fashion Design 15n7 , 16n14 , 17n17 , 18 , 18n25 , 21n38 , 22n46 , 27n84 , 39 , 187
British Vogue 186 , 186n22 , 186n24 , 193 , 194 , 229n5
brogues 59
Bronca, Tristan 234n22 , 244
Brook, Heather 117 , 117n18 , 121 , 121n32 , 130
Brookey, Robert Alan 206n42 , 206n43 , 206n46 , 223
Brooklyn Academy of Music 177
Brooks, Sarah 232n14 , 244
Brown, J. Brian 202n19 , 212n67 , 223
Brozan, Nadine 235n25 , 244
Bruce, Margaret 156n8 , 173
Bruzzi, Stella 44n6 , 48n28 , 67 , 114n6 , 119n25 , 130 , 136n16 , 150
Buddha 235 , 235n25 , 246
Bugg, Jessica 193
Buick, Nadia 35n129 , 38
bulimia 116
Burberry 135 , 139 , 139n33 , 142n51 , 145 , 145n68 , 146 , 148 , 153 , 155 , 165
Burke, Tony 128
burlesque 114–115 , 123 , 125 , 129
Burley, Isabella 228n3 , 234n23 , 244
Burton, Sarah 228
Butler, Judith 201 , 201n18 , 202 , 202n23 , 203 , 204n29 , 208 , 212n67 , 216n90 , 220n98 , 223
Byzantine 231 , 232 , 232n12 , 232n14 , 233 , 234n20 , 235 , 237 , 239 , 245–246
Cairns, Katie 117 , 117n16 , 130
Calder, Jenni 269n9 , 283
Calefato, Patricia 119 , 119n26 , 130
campaign 100 , 125 , 135 , 145–147 , 179 , 179n8 , 200 , 200n13 , 227
Campi, Vincenzo 124 , 124n39 , 125 , 131
Canada 9 , 25n64 , 26n72 , 40 , 143n54 , 150 , 252
Cape Town 9 , 217 , 227
capital 6 , 10 , 30 , 37 , 133–134 , 137–138 , 139 , 139n35 , 139n36 , 140 , 141 , 141n46 , 142 , 142n49 , 143 , 143n59 , 144–148 , 162 , 194 , 275
Capucci 232
career 16–17 , 22 , 24 , 27 , 29 , 59 , 93 , 242
Carlson, Trevor 182 , 182n13 , 182n14 , 193
carnivalesque 6 , 114–115 , 118 , 122 , 129
Carpenter, Betsy 179n79 , 180n10 , 193
Carsley, Gary 213n73 , 223
Cassandra at the Wedding 10 , 276 , 276n41 , 277n44 , 283
Cassill, Nancy L. 38
Casti, John L. 101n65 , 107
cathedral 228 , 232–234 , 237 , 239
Cathedral of Cefalù 234
Cathedral of Monreale 232–233 , 241 , 283
Catholic Church 228
Catrin 56 , 56n59 , 57
catwalk 7–8 , 49 , 51 , 79n25 , 87 , 134 , 136–139 , 147 , 170 , 179 , 183–184 , 186
Cavallaro, Dani 46n13 , 66
Caves, Richard E. 22n43
celebratory 115 , 127
celebrity 44 , 52 , 78 , 82 , 90 , 113 , 133–134 , 139n35 , 139n36 , 140 , 141n46 , 142 , 142n49 , 143 , 143n59 , 144 , 146–148 , 200n14
celebrity capital 133–134 , 139 , 139n35 , 139n36 , 140 , 141n46 , 142 , 142n49 , 143 , 143n59 , 144–148
Celine 218 , 218n94 , 227
Chai 103
chain stores 25 , 162
Chait, Jennifer 103n73 , 107
Chan, Andrew 113 , 113n4 , 130
Chan, Ricky 39
chance 176 , 257
Chanel 34 , 75 , 175n1 , 193 , 218 , 273 , 278
Chanel, Coco 175 , 232 , 273
Chantilly 281
Chapple, Irene 32n115 , 38
characters 9–10 , 48 , 61–62 , 197 , 200 , 200n14 , 201 , 205–208 , 216 , 221–222 , 253 , 264
château 82–83
Château de Candé 82
Chaudhary, Nandita 223
Chianti 96
chic 29 , 31 , 36 , 77 , 79n25 , 80n26 , 87 , 117 , 118n22 , 119 , 131 , 165
chiffon 75–76
chocolate 18 , 18n21 , 114
Choi, Youngmi 19 , 19n27 , 19n28 , 26n74
choreography 7 , 175 , 177–178 , 181–184 , 189–193 , 259
Christian 15n3 , 162 , 174–175 , 228–229 , 231–232 , 232n12 , 234n20 , 242 , 245
Christianity 231 , 235 , 242
Church Gibson, Pamela 44n6 , 48n28 , 67 , 114n5 , 119n25 , 130 , 136n16 , 150 , 197n1 , 201n17 , 205n34 , 207n47 , 223–225
cinema 197n1 , 213 , 227
citizenship 24
classical 6 , 115–116 , 120–121 , 123 , 127 , 129
Clawson, Heather 80n26
clichéd 125
Cockburn, Alexander 113
Cocteau, Jean 184
Codeluppi, Vanni 90n11
Cohan, Steven 214n81 , 226
Cole, Shaun 141n43 , 214n77 , 223
Collier Frick, Carole 20n32
Collins, Glenn 34n126 , 38
Collins, Suzanne 281n61 , 282n65 , 283
Collis, Christy 30n101 , 30n103 , 38
colour 35–36 , 60 , 71 , 94n33 , 95 , 180 , 208–209 , 257
combat trousers 43
comfort 60 , 104 , 113 , 259 , 279
Comme des Garçons 161 , 177 , 179n8 , 179n9
commercial 19 , 30–31 , 35–36 , 43 , 45 , 47–48 , 57 , 73 , 106 , 172 , 213 , 218–219 , 251 , 269
commodity 73–74 , 78 , 155 , 169
comportment 9
Connie and Carla 8 , 199 , 199n7 , 223
conserver-culture 36
consumerism 25 , 27n79 , 39 , 91 , 172
content analysis 28
Converse 43 , 59
Cooper, Evan 214 , 214n78 , 222n100 , 223
Cope, Suzanne 18n20 , 18n21 , 276
Copeland, Huey 263 , 263n45 , 264
Copjec, Joan 223
copulation 114
Corner, Frances 16 , 16n12 , 42n5 , 66 , 190
corset 175 , 280
Cosplay 61
Coste-Maniére, Ivan 135n8
costume 4 , 9 , 69–70 , 70n2 , 77–78 , 81 , 180 , 181n11 , 182–183 , 197 , 197n1 , 198 , 205 , 207–208 , 211 , 213 , 223–224 , 227 , 241 , 243 , 249 , 252
cottage industry 16
Council of Fashion Design of America 133
Counsell, Colin 201n18 , 223
counter-culture 36
couture 3 , 17 , 17n15 , 21 , 69 , 71 , 73–74 , 75n16 , 76 , 78 , 81 , 83 , 87 , 160 , 175 , 175n1 , 179–180 , 193 , 237n30 , 241 , 246
couturier 69 , 73–74 , 77
Cover, Rob 201n17 , 205n34 , 207n49 , 207n51
Coward, Rosalind 116 , 116n14 , 130
craft 2 , 15 , 15n5 , 16 , 16n11 , 18 , 18n20 , 19 , 21 , 24n61 , 26 , 26n73 , 27n82 , 32 , 32n114 , 32n115 , 35 , 36 , 36n37 , 36n40 , 38–39 , 283
crafting renaissance 25
craftsman 24 , 24n57 , 40 , 97
craftsmanship 20 , 24 , 34 , 34n27 , 40 , 228 , 232–233 , 236
Craik, Jennifer 219n97 , 223
Crane, Diana 46n7 , 66
creativity 4 , 16–17 , 19 , 23 , 35 , 40 , 50 , 53 , 102n66 , 109 , 132n5 , 171 , 259
Creed, Barbara 81n31 , 86
Cresswell, James 223
Crewe, Louise 132n2 , 135 , 135n8 , 135n10 , 148
crinoline 175
crisis of category 201 , 204 , 220
Crisp, Quentin 215n86
Croatia 259
crocheting 24
Cross, Nigel 35 , 35n131 , 38
cross dressing 204n33 , 224
crown 228 , 234–235 , 237–239 , 282
Cudi, Kid 218
culinary 122
Cunningham, Merce 7–8 , 175–178 , 178n5 , 179 , 179n7 , 180n10 , 181 , 181n12 , 183 , 183n17 , 184 , 186 , 190–193
Cunningham Dance Foundation 182
cupid 125
curiosity 113 , 255
Dalí, Salvador 69 , 71 , 74–75 , 82–86 , 184
dance 7–8 , 75–76 , 76n20 , 78 , 176 , 176n3 , 177–178 , 178n5 , 179n7 , 180 , 180n10 , 181 , 181n11 , 182–187 , 191–194 , 257–258 , 280
dancer 177–178 , 181 , 181n11 , 182 , 184
dandy 48
Dandyism 48n27 , 67 , 136n16 , 150
Danesi, Marcel 193
da Udine, Giovanni 125
Davie, Grace 241 , 241n40 , 244
Davies, Hywel 211n63 , 217n91 , 218n95 , 224
Davis, Fred 5 , 5n5 , 11 , 224
Davis, Judy 77
de Certeau, Michel 138n30 , 148
De la Haye, Amy 175n1 , 193
De Paola, Juanita 94n27 , 94n30 , 95n36 , 95n37 , 96n43 , 96n45 , 97n50 , 98n52 , 99n54 , 107
Deacon, Giles 228
Deanesi, Andrea 94n28 , 96n44 , 107
death 74 , 80 , 103 , 115 , 119–121 , 126 , 143n53 , 150
Debord, Guy 259 , 259n27 , 264
decadence 119
décor 183
decoration 45 , 232 , 234–235
decorum 6 , 115
degradation 6 , 115 , 119–120 , 122 , 129 , 213
Della Valle, Diego 78
DeLong, Marilyn 210 , 210n57
democratisation 6 , 133–135 , 142 , 145–148
Demonia 187 , 189
Dennis, Abigail 113 , 113n3 , 130
designer hierarchies 141
deterritorialization 252–253
deviance 49 , 122
Dewey, John 2 , 2n1 , 11
Dianne B. 253
Dibb, Michael 193
dichotomous 198 , 204 , 206 , 208 , 213 , 216
Dickens, Charles 10 , 267n4 , 267 , 268n6 , 269 , 270n10 , 283
Dickerson, Chad 32 , 32n115 , 38
diet 175
Dietrich, Marlene 215
Dior 170 , 175 , 175n2 , 194
discipline 16n13 , 20n34 , 26n78 , 39 , 114 , 122 , 129 , 151 , 172 , 190 , 199
discourse 9 , 47 , 116 , 128–129 , 197 , 199 , 202 , 206n43 , 208 , 225 , 283
discourse analysis 9 , 199 , 199n8 , 225
disfiguration 180
disgust 102n66 , 109 , 122 , 127n51 , 131
Disney 209
disorder 2 , 8 , 126 , 195 , 248 , 264
Dittmar, Helga 158 , 158n12 , 174
diverse subject positions 251
dna 17 , 239–240
Dodd Parrish, Erin 38
Dolce, Domenico 9 , 184–186 , 192–194 , 228n1 , 231–246 , 283
Dolce and Gabbana 9 , 184–185 , 228n2 , 228n3 , 228n4 , 233 , 234n18 , 234n19 , 235 , 236n27 , 236n28 , 237n30 , 238n31 , 239n33 , 239n34 , 239n35 , 239n36 , 239n37 , 240 , 242n41 , 243–246 , 283
Dolce e Gabbana 236n29 , 239 , 246
dominance 9 , 122 , 126 , 134 , 148 , 231
dominatrix 122
Doré, Garance 132 , 133n6 , 149
Doty, Alexander 207n47 , 224
Dougherty, Dale 25n69 , 38
Dover Street Market 161 , 161n18 , 162 , 174
drag 118 , 199–200 , 201n17 , 201n18 , 202n19 , 202n22 , 203n27 , 206n38 , 208–209 , 210n61 , 212 , 212n67 , 213–217 , 220 , 222–227 , 230 , 243
drag queen 9 , 199 , 199n7 , 199n9 , 200 , 203–204 , 206n38 , 208–209 , 211–214 , 214n77 , 214n81 , 215–216 , 222 , 224
Dress Meets Body, Body Meets Dress 177 , 179 , 179n9 , 180
Driessens, Olivier 134 , 139 , 139n35 , 139n36 , 141 , 141n46 , 142 , 142n49 , 143 , 143n59 , 147–148
Duchess 81–82 , 84 , 87 , 278
Duchess of Windsor 81 , 81n3 , 84 , 87 , 278
Duggan, Ginger 194
Duke of Windsor 81
Dupré, Stanislas 89n9 , 107
Durst, André 75
e-commerce 27 , 27n80 , 40
eating 6 , 106 , 113–116 , 120 , 122–123 , 125–129 , 212 , 255
Eckert, Claudia 40 , 203n25 , 215n83 , 224
Eckert, Penelope 198n5
Eco, Umberto 2 , 2n2 , 11 , 94
ecommerce 154
economic capital 141 , 143 , 147
economic history 42
economics 1 , 93 , 266
editor 19 , 69 , 78 , 126 , 187 , 239 , 251
editorial 7 , 75 , 114 , 118 , 120 , 122 , 125–126 , 128–129 , 183–184 , 187 , 190
Edquist, Charles 89n2 , 107
Edward Suzuki Associates 92 , 92n23
Edwards, Blake 166n20 , 173
Edwards, Clive 99n57
eec (European Economic Community) 28
effeminate 204 , 211 , 211n63 , 216
Eicher, Joanne B. 198n3 , 217n92 , 226
Eiland, Howard 73n11 , 86 , 127n51 , 131
Eldred, Claire 4 , 69 , 250
elegance 277–278
Elle 84n39 , 138n29 , 149
Ellfeldt, Lois 194
Elliott, Richard 157 , 158n11 , 174
embodiment 73 , 81 , 85 , 223 , 277 , 280
Emporio Armani 186
England 55 , 113 , 271n18
English 16 , 17n19 , 18n22 , 20 , 99n55 , 100 , 100n59 , 204 , 248–249 , 258 , 261
English, Bonnie 16 , 20n36
English, Rose 214–215
entrepreneurship 3 , 16 , 22 , 24 , 32 , 37
Entwistle, Joanne 6 , 51n43 , 66 , 71n5 , 87 , 132n3 , 133 , 134 , 137 , 137n17 , 137n19 , 137n23 , 137n24 , 137n26 , 138–139 , 148 , 194 , 209n55 , 209n56 , 210n60 , 224 , 260 , 260n31 , 262 , 262n41 , 264
épaulement 186
epicentres 154 , 160
Epstein, Rob 215n84 , 215n86 , 227
erotic 6 , 114 , 117–119 , 122 , 124 , 124n38 , 131
eroticisation 113
eroticism 118 , 118n22 , 122 , 127 , 131
establishment 49 , 81
Estella 270 , 275
ethnicity 10 , 248 , 251 , 254
ethnographic 43 , 134
ethnography 47 , 52
Etsy 15 , 16n11 , 26n73 , 28 , 32 , 32n115 , 32n116 , 36n137 , 38
Euro-America 251
European Economic Community 28
Europeans 83
evangelism 232
Evans, Caroline 54n52 , 67 , 74 , 74n13 , 84 , 84n38 , 86 , 193–194
Evans, G. Blakemore 284
Evans, Martin 46n12 , 66
Evans, Nichola 203 , 203n27 , 206n42 , 212n66 , 212n67 , 213 , 213n70 , 224
Eve 69 , 200 , 224 , 234
exercise 71 , 80 , 84 , 175
exhibition 53 , 77–78 , 84n39 , 85 , 161 , 210 , 252 , 254n25
fabric 36 , 71 , 78–80 , 83 , 164 , 179 , 189 , 268
Fabris, Giampaolo 89n6 , 89n8 , 105n80 , 106n83 , 107
Facebook 28n93 , 32n112 , 40 , 52 , 128
Fairclough 199n8
fantasy 61–62 , 74 , 116 , 122 , 157 , 253 , 256
fashion blog 42n1 , 44n6 , 50n37 , 66 , 67 , 132 , 132n4 , 135n8 , 136 , 138 , 140–141 , 143 , 144n66 , 146 , 148 , 150
fashion capital 137–138
fashion show 29 , 29n98 , 37 , 50 , 99 , 133–134 , 136 , 143 , 146–147 , 153 , 189 , 234n18 , 234n19 , 236n28 , 244–245 , 266
fashion studies 1–2 , 7–8 , 18 , 74 , 118 , 230
fashion system 6 , 132 , 133–135 , 139–142 , 144–148 , 172 , 241
Fashion Week 6 , 23n53 , 51 , 98 , 133–134 , 136 , 137n17 , 137n24 , 138 , 148 , 184 , 185n21 , 187 , 228n4 , 229n6 , 239n33 , 244
Fashionmap 3 , 42–44 , 51–54 , 55n58 , 56 , 56n59 , 58 , 60n70 , 61 , 63 , 65–66
Fashionmap Project 43 , 51–52 , 56 , 58 , 65
fashionscapes 7 , 7n7 , 11
fast fashion 20 , 34 , 103n75 , 108 , 253
Fatima 10 , 254 , 254n24 , 255–258
Feeney, Katherine, Feeney 38
Felton, Emma 30n101 , 30n103 , 38
femme fatale 81
Ferragamo 34 , 34n127 , 40
fertility 125
fetish 187
fetishism 122 , 116–117 , 117n19 , 121n31 , 130
fetishize 139
figs 124–125
Financial Times 78 , 78n24 , 87
Finders Keepers 31n111 , 34 , 38
fine art 73 , 250–251 , 253 , 262
Finkelstein, Haim 86
Finkelstein, Joanne 261 , 261n34 , 262 , 264
Finnigan, Kate 50n41 , 66
flagship 7 , 154 , 156–157 , 160–164 , 172
flâneur 133n7 , 148
Fletcher, Kate 25 , 25n67 , 25n68 , 38 , 42n1 , 66
Flew, Terry 15n2 , 26n75 , 27 , 27n86 , 38
flood 234
Florence 20n32 , 93 , 95 , 123–124
Florida, Richard 30 , 30n102 , 31
Flugel, John 210n59 , 224
Folli Follie 145
food 2 , 6 , 17–18 , 18n20 , 18n21 , 74 , 103 , 113 , 113n2 , 114–116 , 116n13 , 117 , 117n16 , 118–119 , 119n25 , 120 , 120n29 , 123 , 123n35 , 124n37 , 124n39 , 126 , 126n46 , 127 , 128 , 129 , 130–131 , 146 , 212 , 230 , 240
foodie 116–117 , 117n16 , 130–131
foodporn 113
Fortitude Valley 31 , 39
Foster, Susan 176 , 176n3 , 176n4 , 194 , 221 , 240
Fox, Chris 193
Frackowiak, Magdalena 187 , 188 , 188n25 , 189
France 20 , 82 , 95n38 , 161 , 194 , 252 , 255
Francine 254n24
Franco, Montserrat 239n34 , 245
Françozo, Mariana 86
frayed denim 43 , 58
Frazier, Nancy 86
Freedberg, David 235 , 235n24 , 245
French 17 , 75 , 75n17 , 75n18 , 76 , 77 , 77n21 , 87 , 96 , 99n55 , 126n46 , 127 , 131 , 187 , 255
Friedman, Jeffrey 215n84 , 215n86 , 227
Friedman, May 250 , 250n13 , 251 , 263 , 263n43 , 264
Friedman, Vanessa 78n24 , 87
Friese, Susanne 266 , 267n3 , 283
Frotscher, Mirjam M. 206n42 , 206n45 , 207n48 , 224
fruit 120 , 122–124 , 124n37 , 124n40 , 125 , 125n42 , 126 , 272
Furåker, Bengt 38
Gabbana, Stefano 9 , 184 , 184n18 , 184n19 , 185 , 185n21 , 193–194 , 228n1 , 228n2 , 228n3 , 228n4 , 231–234 , 234n18 , 234n19 , 236n27 , 236n28 , 236n29 , 247 , 237n31 , 238 , 238–239 , 239n33 , 239n34 , 239n35 , 239n36 , 239n37 , 240 , 240n37 , 241–242 , 242n41 , 244–246
Gagne, Patricia 198n6 , 202n19 , 224
Gaines, Charles 252–253
Gaines, Jane 197n1 , 224
gallery 85n40 , 152 , 160–161 , 170 , 236n28 , 246 , 254n25
Galliano, John 239
gamine 6 , 114 , 121 , 127
Gamman, Lorraine 114n6 , 117 , 117n19 , 119 , 119n25 , 120 , 121n31 , 130
Garber, Marjorie 204n33 , 209n56 , 224
Gardner, Anthony 18n22 , 19 , 19n31
Gasouka, Maria 209n55 , 222
gastro-porn 6 , 113–114 , 116
gastronomic 18
Gastronomica 113n2 , 113n4 , 130–131
Gaultier, Jean Paul 230 , 243 , 243n46 , 245
gaze 5 , 48 , 118 , 122 , 155 , 208n53 , 225 , 280
Gell, Alfred 46 , 46n10 , 66 , 80 , 80n27 , 80n29 , 86–87
gender bending 217–220
gender identity 9 , 198 , 198n4 , 201 , 202 , 202n21 , 203–205 , 209–211 , 216–217 , 219–220 , 224 , 226
gender non-conforming 198 , 198n4
gender performance 201–202 , 202n19 , 203 , 208 , 213 , 223
Gender Trouble 202 , 202n22 , 204n29 , 212n67 , 216n90 , 223
genitalia 122 , 125
genre 35 , 124n39 , 131 , 142n52 , 143n55 , 149 , 160
Genz, Ryan 101
George, Kat 144n66 , 148
Germany 122 , 154 , 170 , 200n12 , 226
Getty Images 79 , 218
Gibson, Pamela Church 44n6 , 48n28 , 67 , 114n6 , 119n25 , 130 , 136n16 , 150 , 197n1 , 201n17 , 205n34 , 207n47 , 223–225
Gilmore, James H. 40 , 159 , 159n15 , 174
Giltrow, Janet 142n52 , 149
Ginsberg, Madeleine 266n1 , 266n2 , 284
Givenchy 218 , 228
glamour 6 , 32–33 , 36 , 74n14 , 87 , 113 , 115–117 , 119 , 121 , 123 , 125 , 127 , 129 , 131 , 146 , 169 , 185 , 279n55 , 284
Glicksman, Eve 200n15 , 224
Global Trends 105
globalisation 23n49 , 23n51 , 27n87 , 29n97 , 39 , 50 , 92 , 199n9 , 213n73 , 222 , 223
gluttonous 6 , 113–114 , 127 , 146
gluttony 121 , 124–126
Goffman, Erving 49n33 , 53n50 , 66
Golb, Joel 127n51 , 131
González, Ana Marta 46n7 , 47n20 , 47n21 , 48n22 , 66–67
Google 17 , 69 , 95n35 , 108
Gosden, Chris 72 , 72n9 , 87
Gothic Lolitas 61
Goths 49
gq 142 , 186
Graham, Dan 166 , 166n21 , 169 , 174
Graham, Phil 30n101 , 30n102 , 38 , 157
Granata, Francesca 115 , 115n9 , 130
grandeur 9 , 235 , 240
Grazia 7 , 177 , 183
Great Expectations 10 , 267 , 267n4 , 268n6 , 269 , 270n10 , 283
Green, Roy 28n89 , 38
Griffin, Susan M. 240n38 , 245
Gripsrud, Jostein 205n34 , 205n36 , 224
Grose, Lynda 25n68 , 38
Gross, Michael 243n46 , 245
grotesque 113–114 , 115n8 , 115n9 , 115n10 , 119n25 , 120 , 125–127 , 127n54 , 129–131 , 240
Grozdanic, Lidija 100n61 , 108
Gucci 34
Guidi 96 , 96n41
gusto 113 , 127
Guy, Kolleen M. 20 , 20n35
Gwilt, Alison 34n125 , 39
haircut 49 , 256
Hammond, Joyce 214n77 , 224
Hanson, Rebecca 210n61 , 212n68 , 224
Harajuku 61
Hark, Ina Rae 214n81 , 226
Harper’s Bazaar 253
Harrigan, Jinni A. 208n53 , 209n53 , 225
Harris, Geraldine 213 , 213n69 , 213n71 , 214 , 214n81 , 220n98 , 225
Harris, Miller 162
Harrison Martin, Richard 231 , 231n11 , 234n21 , 245
Harrods 164–165
Harry Potter 102
Hauge, Atle 19n30 , 34n124 , 39
Harvey Nicols 165
Hawes, Elizabeth 84n39
Hawken, Paul 25n68 , 38
Heathrow Airport 164
Heaton, Sarah 10 , 248 , 248n3 , 264 , 266 , 267
Hebdige, Dick 49n29 , 67
hegemonic 9 , 197 , 203 , 207–208 , 211 , 213 , 216 , 221
Heim, Hilde 3–4 , 17n15 , 19n29 , 21n37 , 25n71
Herbig, Paul 16n10
heritage 36 , 53 , 75 , 77 , 79 , 205n37 , 225 , 236–237 , 239 , 241 , 243 , 273
Hermawan, Kartajaya 89n7 , 92n19 , 105n81 , 108
heroin chic 119
Herrera, Carolina 280
Hersch, Jeanne 102n70 , 108
Hervieu-Leger, Danièle 91n16 , 108
Herzog, Charlotte 197n1 , 224
heteronormative 118 , 200 , 203 , 205 , 212 , 214 , 249
heterosexism 197 , 201 , 216
Heti, Sheila 47 , 47n18 , 67
hierarchies 6 , 89 , 132–134 , 138–141 , 147
hierarchy 134 , 140–143
Hilden & Diaz 91
Hill, Andrew 54 , 54n52 , 67
Hill, John 197n1 , 201n17 , 205n34 , 207n47 , 223–225
Hill, Kate 86
Hill, Tamara W. 243n46 , 245
Hiller Connell, Kim 16n12 , 20 , 20n34 , 26n77 , 39
Hindu 239 , 242
Hines, Tony 156n8 , 173
hipster 24 , 35–36 , 36n135 , 36n138 , 36n141 , 58
Hirschmiller, Stephanie 229n5 , 245
historiography 248 , 250 , 252
Hoffmann, Jonas 135n8
Hogg, Michael 157n10 , 174
Holgate, Mark 239n33 , 245
Holliday, Rachel 33n119 , 39
Hollis, Richard 193
Hollister, Virginia 30n100 , 40
Holmes, Samantha 228n1 , 245
holy figures 228 , 235
Holy Spirit 229 , 229n5 , 245
homogenisation 50
Hong Kong 23 , 164
Honoré, Carl 25 , 25n64
Hopkins, David 254 , 254n23 , 264
Horvat, Marian T. 229 , 229n7 , 229n7 , 244
hosiery 53
hospitality 34
hourglass 175 , 180 , 237
House of Ezis 28 , 28n91 , 29 , 29n95 , 29n96 , 30 , 30n99 , 31 , 31n107 , 33–34 , 39–40
House of Fraser 145
House of Schiaparelli 78
How, Jane 187 , 187n22 , 187n23 , 189
Hracs, Brian J. 19n30 , 34n124 , 39
Hubbard, Phil 201n17 , 205n34 , 206n40 , 225
Hudson, Katy 242
HugShirt 101 , 101n63
Hughes, Clair 266n1 , 266n2 , 284
Hugo Boss 186
Hume, David 262
Hungry 126
hungry 113 , 126n45 , 126n46 , 130
Hunt-Hurst, Patricia 277n43 , 283
hybrid 5 , 9 , 103 , 103n74 , 108 , 152 , 247 , 250–252 , 254 , 259 , 264
hygiene 115 , 200n13
hype 54 , 142 , 199 , 199n9 , 200 , 222
hyperimage 7
hypermateriality 240
Hyperstealth Biotechnology 102
iconographic 228 , 234
iconography 9–10 , 74 , 82 , 237 , 239
ict (Information and Communication Technologies) 19 , 26
illusion 105 , 182 , 185 , 188 , 203 , 216 , 253
indie culture 31n106 , 35 , 37
individualism 48 , 54
individuality 17 , 34–35 , 43 , 47–49 , 52–54 , 56 , 59 , 61–63 , 65 , 100 , 106
indulgence 119 , 121 , 123 , 126
Industrial Revolution 42
innovative 4–5 , 23 , 28n89 , 30 , 38 , 88–95 , 99–106 , 135n8
inspiration 36 , 49 , 59 , 83 , 88 , 97 , 126 , 132 , 156 , 228n1 , 231–233 , 236 , 238–241 , 243 , 245
installation 7 , 101 , 151 , 169–171 , 251
Instant Spray On Clothing 103 , 103n75 , 108
institution 69 , 218
institutionalised insiders 144
Intel International Science and Engineering Fair 103
interdisciplinary 2 , 206n42 , 224 , 259n29 , 261n33 , 265
International Biennale 30
internet 26 , 40 , 50 , 97 , 142n52 , 149 , 154 , 166 , 172
intersectional figures 10 , 251 , 258
interview 3 , 31n110 , 38 , 43–44 , 52 , 55 , 55n58 , 56 , 56n59 , 57n62 , 59 , 60n70 , 61 , 63 , 67 , 82 , 97 , 134–136 , 139n31 , 139n32 , 139n33 , 140 , 141n44 , 142n51 , 143 , 145 , 145n67 , 145n70 , 182n13 , 182n14 , 190n27 , 229n7 , 239 , 242 , 244 , 259 , 259n29 , 261n33 , 267
interviewees 56 , 61
Interview Germany 122
Interview Magazine 253
Introzzi, Ilaria 95n35 , 108
invention 5 , 85 , 88–89 , 92 , 102 , 104–105 , 261 , 261n34 , 264
iPad 96 , 172
iPhone 172
Isaac 237
Isaac Sellam Experience 95 , 95n38
Ismail, Lee 205n37 , 225
Italy 4 , 9 , 29 , 232–233 , 234n20 , 239–240 , 246 , 283
ivory-tower 21
jacket 43 , 56–58 , 60 , 63 , 79 , 83 , 96–97 , 279
Jacobs, Marc, Jacobs 253
Jakob, Doreen 19n30 , 34n124 , 39
Japan 61
Jarrold, Julian 199n7 , 225
jeans 43 , 48 , 55–61 , 63 , 217
Jenkins, Henry 89n3 , 109
jersey 108 , 175–176 , 230n9 , 245
Jesus 229 , 229n5 , 229n6 , 234–235 , 237–238 , 239n35 , 246
jewellery 10 , 18 , 59 , 79 , 166 , 266 , 269–271 , 273–275
Joan of Arc 242–243
Jobling, Paul 116 , 116n12 , 131
Johansson, Scarlett 229
Johnson, Björn 89n2 , 107
Johnston, Josée 116n13 , 117 , 117n16 , 130–131
Jordan, Andrew 181n11
Jorgenson, Marianne 199n8 , 225
Joslin, Katherine 266n1 , 266n2 , 272 , 272n19 , 273n28 , 284
journalist 25 , 78 , 113 , 133 , 138–139 , 141 , 236–237
joy 24
Joy, Annamma 39
Joy, Jody 85n41 , 87
Julavits, Jeidi 47 , 47n18 , 67
K11 Art Mall 155–157
Kahnovich, Ksenia 185n21 , 186
Kaiser, Susan B. 2 , 2n3 , 3 , 10 , 10n12 , 11 , 57 , 57n62 , 67 , 197 , 197n2 , 216n88 , 225 , 248 , 248n4 , 251 , 251n15 , 253 , 253n21 , 264
Kane, Kathryn 201n16 , 225
Kant, Immanuel 158n13 , 174
Karaminas, Vicki 7 , 7n7 , 7n8 , 11 , 140n38 , 149
Katholieke Universiteit Leuven 103
Kathryn 201n16 , 225 , 254n24
Kauffman, Isa 179n8
Kawakubo, Rei 161 , 177–178 , 178n5 , 179 , 179n7 , 179n9 , 180 , 180n10 , 181 , 181n11 , 181n12 , 182–183 , 183n15 , 191–193
Kawamura, Yuniya 137n18 , 148
Keegan, Cael M. 206n44 , 225
Kellner, Douglas 201n17 , 225
Kellock, Jo-Anne 16n10 , 20n36
Kenzo 186
khaki 58
Khamis, Susie 132n5 , 135n8 , 135n9 , 144n62 , 144n65 , 146n71 , 149
Khare, Eesha 103 , 103n76 , 109
Kidron, Beeban 199n7 , 227
Kimmel, Adam 145
kinaesthetically 180
kinesics 9 , 208 , 208n53 , 209 , 211–213 , 216–217 , 219–220 , 225 , 243
kinetic 177–178 , 181–183
King, Dorothy 237n30 , 245 , 279
King Edward viii 81
King of Sicily 237
King Rehoboam 237
King William ii 233
Kinky Boots 8 , 199 , 199n7 , 225
Kirk, Mary 201n17 , 206n38 , 225
Knezovic, Suzie 28n93 , 33n117
Knightsbridge 165
knitting 24
Knowles, Mark 76n20 , 87
Koda, Harold 77n23 , 86
Koestenbaum, Wayne 247 , 247n1 , 248 , 250–251 , 263–264
Kolakis, Demetra 7 , 151–153 , 155–157 , 160–165 , 167–168
kombucha 103
Komodo dragon 97
Kondo, Dorrine 194
Konig, Rene 217n92 , 225
Koolhaas, Rem 155 , 155n6 , 174
Koplos, Janet 39
Kopytoff, Igor 4 , 72 , 72n7 , 73 , 87
Kosugi, Takehisa 177
Kotler, Philip 89n7 , 90n10 , 92n19 , 105n81 , 108
Kourlas, Gia 194
Kozar, Joy 16n13 , 20n34 , 26n78 , 39
Kristeva, Julia 127 , 127n54
Kulesh, Alina 228n1 , 236n27 , 239n37 , 245
Kunsthaus Tacheles 170
Kuo, Michelle 251 , 251n14 , 264
Kwon, Annie 193
L’Officiel de la Mode 75 , 75n16 , 87
La Ferla, Ruth 133 , 149
La Martorana 237
lace 53 , 59 , 76 , 228 , 266–267 , 281
Lacroix, Celeste 201n17 , 205n34 , 206n46 , 227
Lagerfeld, Karl 228n1 , 232 , 235 , 245
Lagos 50
Lakshmi 239
Lambert, Kelly 39
Lange, Bastian 144n60 , 149
Langman, Lauren 117 , 117n21 , 118 , 118n23 , 131
Larner, Wendy 15n8 , 22 , 22n48 , 23 , 23n49 , 23n50 , 23n51 , 27 , 27n87 , 29 , 29n97 , 39
Le Yucca 96 , 96n39
Lea-Greenwood, Gaynor 33 , 33n122 , 37
learning-by-doing 25
leather 5 , 34 , 58 , 60 , 63 , 83 , 92–94 , 96 , 104 , 187 , 189 , 218n96 , 222
Lee, Suzan 103 , 103n72
Lembeck, Michael 199n7 , 223
Lennon, Sharron J. 210n57 , 226
Leppens, Maria 39
Les robes à danser 76 , 76n21 , 87
Leto, Jared 218
Lévi-Strauss, Claude 59 , 59n66 , 59n68 , 67
lfw (London Fashion Week) 6 , 133–134 , 136 , 137n17 , 137n24 , 138 , 140 , 146 , 148
lifestyle 3 , 21 , 24–25 , 29 , 38 , 49 , 52 , 89n9 , 92 , 100 , 106–107 , 117 , 119 , 119n26 , 121 , 130 , 156–157 , 159 , 175 , 253
Lindquist, Marissa 30
Lipovetsky, Gilles 152n3 , 174
Lisa Blue 239
livelihood 17 , 21
Lobster Dress 1 , 4 , 69 , 69n1 , 70–84 , 84n39 , 85n40 , 87 , 250
Locke, John 261
logo 49 , 153 , 158
Longboard Stroller 100 , 100n60 , 107
Lorber, Judith 202n19 , 202n20 , 203n26 , 211n62 , 225
Lord, Catherine 252
love 35 , 113 , 159 , 206n42 , 224 , 257–258 , 269 , 271
Lovegood, Ross 91
Lowden, John 231 , 232n12 , 234n20 , 245
Luckman, Susan 15n5 , 24 , 24n61 , 26–27 , 27n82 , 32n114 , 36n137 , 36n140
Ludmilla-Mary 254n24
Luhrmann, Baz 77
Lurie, Alison 46n9 , 67
lust 119
luxury 4 , 6 , 19 , 23 , 29 , 31 , 34–35 , 35n129 , 38–39 , 78 , 80n26 , 94 , 97n51 , 114 , 119 , 119n26 , 120–122 , 126 , 129–130 , 135n8 , 152n3 , 155 , 164 , 174 , 180 , 184 , 236
Lynch, Annette 118 , 118n22 , 131
MacClancy, Jeremy 114 , 114n5 , 131
Mackrell, Judith 178 , 178n6 , 183n15 , 183n17 , 194
Maclaran, Pauline 117n20 , 125 , 125n43 , 131
Madame Olenska 270
Madeira, Marcio 185n21
Mainbocher 81
make-up 49 , 189 , 281
maker 15 , 15n1 , 15n3 , 20 , 24 , 25n69 , 25n70 , 26 , 31 , 36 , 38–39
maker movement 15n3 , 25 , 25n70
Makinen, Merja 117 , 117n19 , 120 , 121n31 , 130
Malem, Wendy 16n9 , 17 , 17n18 , 22 , 22n41 , 22n45 , 22n47 , 24n36 , 25 , 27 , 27n83
Malewitz, Raymond 27n79 , 39
Manga 61 , 258
Manlow, Veronica 152n3 , 174
Manon 254n24 , 256–257
marc 5 , 93
Marc Jacobs 253
Marchetti, Luca 152n2 , 174
Marco 126 , 254n24 , 256
Marcus, Sharon 271 , 271n18 , 284
marginalisation 220–221
Marie Antoinette 97 , 119
Marie Claire 142
Marni 164–165
Marshall, Yvonne 72 , 72n9 , 87
Marx, Karl 194
Mary 235 , 237 , 238
masculine 175 , 198–199 , 203 , 204 , 204n30 , 205 , 208 , 210–212 , 212n67 , 214 , 214n76 , 215–216 , 219 , 226 , 259
masculinity 118 , 122 , 203–204 , 214 , 247 , 247n1 , 248 , 250 , 260 , 264
mass production 25 , 34 , 42 , 48 , 99
materiality 46–47 , 60 , 71 , 75 , 77 , 79 , 84 , 251
Matus, Morgana 103n74 , 108
Mayer, Robert N. 159 , 159n16 , 173
Mayfair 164
mbff (Mercedes Benz Fashion Festival) 33
McBride, Anne 113n2 , 131
McCartney, Stella 164 , 187
McConnell-Ginet, Sally 198n5 , 203n25 , 215n83 , 224
McDonah, Don 194
McKenna, Laura 144 , 144n64 , 149
McKinsey Global Institute 105
McLuhan, Marshall 172 , 172n25 , 174
McNeill, Laurie 142n52 , 14n553 , 149
McQueen, Alexander 55 , 228
McRobbie, Angela 15 , 15n7 , 16n14 , 17 , 17n17 , 18 , 18n25 , 21 , 21n38 , 22 , 22n46 , 27 , 27n84 , 30 , 39
McTighe, Sheila 124n39 , 131
McWilliam, Kelly 205n35 , 225
meat 122 , 125–126
Meazza, Michela 184–186 , 192
media hierarchies 140 , 147
mediation 1–2 , 5–7 , 111
Mediterranean 232
medium blogger 144
Meinhold, Bridgette 103n75 , 108
Melbourne Laneway 30
Mello, Patrizia 91n14 , 92n21 , 99n56 , 101n62 , 108
Menkes, Suzy 81n32 , 82 , 82n35 , 87 , 238 , 238n32 , 245
Menninghaus, Winifred 127n51 , 131
menswear 175 , 211n63 , 217 , 217n91 , 218n95 , 219 , 224
Merisi da Caravaggio, Michelangelo 123–124 , 124n38 , 131
Mertens, Hanneke 138 , 138n29 , 149
Met Ball 78–79
meta-language 8
metamorphosis 2–3 , 5 , 13 , 84–85
Metcalf, Bruce 39
methodology 51–52 , 134 , 151 , 169 , 250
metropolitan 77 , 77n23 , 86 , 171 , 171n23 , 173
Metropolitan Museum of Art 77n23 , 86 , 241
Mexico 17
Meyer, Stephanie 279n56 , 280n60 , 284
micro-business 28
Mikli, Alan 101
Mikunda, Christian 162 , 162n19 , 174
Milan Fashion Week 184 , 185n21 , 228n4 , 229n6 , 244
millennial 9 , 16 , 16n13 , 20 , 26n78 , 39 , 119
miniskirts 58 , 180
mise-en-scène 189 , 191–193
misogyny 118
Miss Havisham 267–270 , 275–276 , 283
mistress 81
Mitchell, W.J.T. 249 , 249n7 , 251 , 253 , 264
modernist 49 , 132
modernity 48n27 , 54n52 , 67–68 , 70 , 70n3 , 74 , 86 , 114n7 , 115n8 , 115n10 , 131 , 151 , 151n1 , 172 , 172n24 , 174 , 181
modes of disorder 2 , 8 , 195
modesty 118
Mods 49
Molasky, Mona 78
Mole, Sarah 6 , 49–50 , 132 , 136n15 , 138 , 139n31 , 139n32 , 139n33 , 141n42 , 141n44 , 142n48 , 142n51 , 143n58 , 144n61 , 145n67 , 145n69 , 145n70 , 149
Molloy, Maureen 15n8 , 22 , 22n48 , 23 , 23n49 , 23n50 , 23n51 , 27 , 27n87 , 29 , 29n97 , 39
monarch 81 , 88
Monllos, Kristina 200n13 , 225
Monsarrat, Ann 266n1 , 266n2 , 284
Montgomery, Maureen E. 268n5 , 284
Montréal 252 , 255–256 , 258
Morocco 215 , 215n85 , 226 , 252
Morrisey, Tanya 39
mosaic 9 , 143n54 , 150 , 228 , 228n1 , 231–232 , 233 , 233n16 , 234 , 234n19 , 235 , 236 , 236n28 , 237 , 237n30 , 237n31 , 239n37 , 241 , 243 , 245 , 246
Mower, Sarah 184 , 184n18 , 184n19 , 194
Mrs. Peniston 270
multinationals 25
Mumbai 50
Munt, Alex 132n5 , 135n8 , 135n9 , 144n62 , 144n65 , 146n71 , 149
Murray, Bernadine 40
Murry, Rheana 200n12 , 226
muse 9 , 239n37 , 240n37 , 246–247 , 264
Muse of Fire 88
museology 73
music 19n30 , 26 , 34n124 , 35 , 39 , 49 , 52 , 55 , 61 , 75 , 162 , 165 , 177 , 183 , 198n3 , 206 , 231 , 242 , 257
Muslim 244
muslin 76 , 266
Nana 24
Nash, Chris 190n27 , 194
nationality 10 , 248 , 250–251 , 254
Native American 239
Nead, Lynda 10 , 10n13 , 11
Neal, Lynn S. 9 , 228 , 283
Negrin, Llewellyn 209n54 , 217n92 , 226
Neo-Nordic 36
network 23n53 , 30 , 32n113 , 40 , 80 , 214n78 , 223
networking 26 , 28 , 32 , 37
New Adventures 184
New Look 78n24 , 84n38 , 86–87 , 170 , 175 , 175n2 , 194
New York Times 34n126 , 38 , 126n47 , 131 , 133n6 , 149 , 235n25 , 238 , 238n32 , 243n46 , 244 , 245 , 253n22 , 265
New Zealand 15n8 , 22–23 , 23n49 , 29 , 39
Newton, Esther 226
Newton, Helmut 122 , 126 , 212n64
Next 60
Nguyen, Thuy Linh 141n47
niche 15 , 18–21 , 23 , 27 , 33 , 37–38
Nichols, Mike 199n7 , 227
Niessen, Sandra 8 , 8n9 , 11
Nightingale, Alice 28 , 28n92 , 31 , 31 , 109 , 31n110 , 32 , 32n116 , 33 , 33n120 , 34 , 36 , 36n139 , 37–38
Nike 59
nineteenth century 102n68 , 175 , 240n38 , 245 , 266 , 270
Noah 234
non-place 151 , 151n1 , 166
normality 49
Norman, Donald A. 106 , 106n84 , 108
Normandy 275
normative 122 , 128 , 204–206 , 210–211 , 213–214 , 219–221 , 243 , 264
North Carolina 9 , 39
Norton, David W. 159 , 159n17 , 174
nostalgic 35 , 240
Nottingham 3 , 43 , 51–53 , 61
Nottingham Trent University 3 , 44–45 , 51 , 55 , 55n58 , 56n59 , 57–58 , 60 , 60n70 , 62–64
nourishment 113
novelty 43 , 45 , 88 , 90 , 231
Oakes, Kaya 31n106 , 35n134
obesity 116
object biography 4 , 69 , 71–74 , 83 , 85 , 85n41 , 86 , 87 , 250
oed (Oxford English Dictionary) 17 , 17n19 , 18n22
oeuvre 122 , 252
Old New York 271–272 , 275
old world powers 146
Oliver, Mary Beth 206n39 , 226
Olympics 165
Opel 100 , 100n58 , 100n59
organza 69 , 71 , 75–78
Ott, Robert 18 , 18n26 , 19 , 20 , 20n33 , 26 , 26n76 , 27 , 35n133 , 40
Oxenham, William 38
Paechter, Carrie 204n30 , 214n76 , 226
painting 74 , 120 , 123 , 123n35 , 124 , 124n39 , 130 , 131 , 257
Palatine Chapel 234
Palmer, Alexandra 175n2 , 194
paparazzi 78
Paris 23 , 29 , 48 , 69 , 73 , 75 , 75n15 , 80 , 85n40 , 87 , 95n38 , 96 , 98 , 125–126 , 126n45 , 131 , 132n1 , 137n18 , 140n49 , 148 , 160–161 , 164 , 170 , 187 , 256
Paris Fashion Week 98 , 187
parka 43 , 58
parody 76 , 199 , 212 , 214
passé 177
passion 52 , 113 , 257
pearls 270–271 , 273–276 , 281–282
Pederson, Julianne 136n12 , 149
Pelleevino 94 , 94n29 , 94n31 , 95 , 107
Perlmutter, David 143 , 143n56 , 149
Perry, Katy 229 , 231 , 241 , 242 , 242n41 , 242n42 , 242n43 , 243 , 245
persona 203 , 213 , 215–216 , 243 , 252 , 254
perspective 9 , 10 , 17 , 19 , 19n27 , 19n28 , 25–27 , 45 , 52 , 65 , 73–75 , 77 , 80 , 83 , 86–87 , 151 , 165 , 170 , 173 , 178 , 190–191 , 207 , 214n78 , 223 , 241 , 251 , 262 , 280
perversity 119
Pescia Fiorentina 94
Petican, Laura 1 , 203 , 208 , 243 , 247
Pfeiffer, Eric 102n71 , 108
Phelps, Nicole 228n2 , 246
Philadelphia Museum of Art 69–70 , 81 , 84 , 87
Phillips, Louise J. 199n8 , 225
Phillips, Patrick 207n50 , 207n52 , 213n74 , 226
philosophy 1 , 22–23 , 25 , 32 , 47n19 , 67 , 94 , 163 , 205n35 , 225 , 257
Phoenix 103
photograph 44 , 52 , 56 , 82 , 101 , 124 , 145–146 , 166 , 172 , 190–192 , 232
photography 1–2 , 6–7 , 113 , 116 , 116n12 , 118–120 , 122 , 124–125 , 129 , 131 , 135 , 146 , 167 , 169–170 , 172 , 190–191 , 194 , 248 , 253n22 , 254 , 265
Piel y Vino Srl 94 , 94n29 , 94n30
piercings 49 , 55
Pine, Joseph B. 40 , 159 , 159n15 , 174
Pistoia 95
platform 7 , 26–27 , 32 , 44 , 132 , 172 , 187 , 189–190 , 200
pleasure 102n66 , 109 , 113–114 , 116–117 , 120 , 122–123 , 126 , 152 , 240 , 270 , 273 , 279n55 , 284
plus-size 126–127
Pole, Antoinette 144 , 144n64 , 149 , 203
Poletti, Federico 93n25 , 108
Polhemus, Ted 49 , 49n31 , 50n36 , 50n41 , 54n57 , 63n72 , 67
politics 1 , 144n64 , 149 , 197 , 200–201 , 221 , 238 , 240 , 253 , 263
polka dots 43
Pope Benedict 230
porn chic 117–118 , 118n22 , 131
pornographic 114 , 116 , 122
port de bras 177–178
Posner, Donald 124n38 , 131
possession 155 , 158 , 158n12 , 247
postmodern 46 , 89n6 , 156 , 158 , 203 , 209n54 , 226 , 248–249 , 251–252 , 254n23 , 259–260
Postrel, Virginia 279n55 , 284
Potvin, John 174
Prada, Miuccia 69 , 77 -\, 77n23 , 78 , 79 , 79n25 , 80 , 85–87 , 152 , 155 , 155n6 , 164 , 174
prejudice 252
prestige 140–143
Pringle of Scotland 139n32
projection 7 , 113 , 119 , 169 , 170
psyche 125 , 159
psychology 42 , 49n33 , 66 , 102n66 , 109 , 157n10 , 158n12 , 174 , 200 , 210n57 , 210n59 , 223–224
Pugh, Gareth 187 , 187n24 , 188 , 188n25 , 192
punks 48–49
Pytel, Andrej 28 , 28n91 , 29 , 29n96 , 31n107 , 35 , 40
Quantum Stealth Technology 102
Quebecois 257
queer 197 , 201n16 , 201n17 , 205n34 , 206 , 206n42 , 206n43 , 203n46 , 207 , 207n47 , 213n43 , 223–225 , 227 , 259
Queer Zagreb 259
Quinny 100
Quinz, Emanuele 152n2 , 174
Qur’an 235
race 10 , 194 , 201n17 , 203n27 , 224–225 , 248 , 251
Rainforest 176 , 191
Rajadhyaksha, Madhavi 200n12 , 226
Raleigh 53
Ramsamy-Iranah, Sabrina 277n43 , 283
Ravenna 232 , 237
Rebekah 237
recognisability 6 , 139 , 143 , 145 , 147
reformulation 151
Regency period 266
regeneration 30 , 151 , 251
Reiter, Mark 17n16
relevé 177
religion 1 , 8–9 , 228–233 , 233–235 , 235n25 , 246 , 283
Religion as a Chain Memory 230n9 , 231n10
Religion et Memoria 91n16 , 108
Religion in Europe 241n40
Renaissance 18 , 20n32 , 25 , 43 , 114–115 , 123n35 , 124 , 124n37 , 124n40 , 125n42 , 130–131
Renn, Crystal 125 , 126n45 , 126n46 , 127 , 130–131
repositioning 151
representation 2 , 6 , 33 , 42 , 85 , 114–116 , 126 , 127–129 , 146 , 152 , 160 , 167 , 176 , 178 , 191 , 197 , 205–207 , 221–222 , 234 , 237 , 248–251 , 259
reproduction 7 , 77 , 151
resistance 10 , 48 , 50 , 117n21 , 118 , 118n23 , 131 , 198n6 , 224
retail 28 , 32–34 , 152 , 154 , 158–159 , 162 , 172
revulsion 116 , 122
rhetorical 124 , 267
Richardson, Terry 114 , 125 , 126 , 126n45 , 126n48 , 127 , 129 , 131
Roach-Higgins, Mary Ellen 198n3 , 217n92 , 226
Roberts, Gareth 123n36 , 131
Robertson, Pamela 214n81 , 226
Roc, Dana 259 , 259n29 , 261n33 , 265
Rocamora, Agnès 6 , 44n6 , 50n37 , 67 , 115n9 , 130 , 133–134 , 137 , 137n17 , 137n19 , 137n23 , 137n24 , 137n24 , 138–139 , 140 , 140n39 , 141n43 , 148–149
Rockers 49
Roger ii 237
Rogue Habits 258 , 258n26 , 265
Roitfeld, Carine 126 , 126n47 , 131
Roman Emperors 62
Romanticism 76
Rose, Gillian 177 , 194
Rosella, Francesca 101
Rosenthal, Robert 209n53 , 225
Ross, Frances 27 , 27n80 , 40
Rosser, Esther 50n40 , 67
Rossi, Elisa 94n32 , 109
Roversi, Paolo 179n8
Rowland Jr., Benjamin 232n14 , 246
Rowley, Jennifer 40
Rowling, J.K. 102
Royal College of Art 103
royalty 143 , 238
Rudd, Nancy A., Rudd 210n57 , 226
Russo, Maria Teresa 47n21 , 67
Russo, Mary 115n8 , 115n10 , 127n54 , 131
Russo, Vito 206n41 , 215 , 226
Ryan, Nicky 140n38 , 149
Safran, Linda 232 , 232n13 , 235 , 236n26 , 246
Sang-Young, Lee 100
Sanghani, Radhika 128n55 , 131
Sargent, Stephanie Lee 206n39 , 226
sartorial 54 , 198–199 , 202 , 206–208 , 212 , 216–220
sartorial expressiveness 54
satiation 6 , 121–122
scandal 81 , 83–84
scarf 55 , 58
Scenario 7 , 175 , 177 , 178n5 , 180 , 181n11 , 181n12 , 182 , 184 , 191–193 , 216
Schacht, Steven P. 202n24 , 212 , 212n65 , 212n67 , 214n75 , 226
Schaefer, Kayleen 211n63 , 218 , 218n94 , 227
Scherer, Klaus R. 209n53 , 225
Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations 77 , 77n23 , 84n39 , 86
Schiaparelli, Elsa 4 , 69–71 , 71n4 , 73 , 74 , 74n13 , 74n14 , 75 , 75n16 , 75n19 , 76–77 , 77n22 , 77n23 , 78 , 79n25 , 81–83 , 83n39 , 85 , 85n40 , 86–87 , 184–185 , 250
Schiermer, Bjørn 36 , 36n135 , 36n138 , 36n141 , 40
Schlesinger, Andrea B. 143n53
Schudson, Michael 144n63 , 149
Schultermandl, Silvia 250 , 250n13 , 251 , 263 , 263n43 , 264
Schulze, Gerhard 159 , 159n14 , 174
Schuman, Scott 50 , 132 , 144 , 144n60
Schwartz, David 139
Seawell, Brad 89n3 , 109
Second Skin Dress 96
seduction 6 , 83 , 114 , 116 , 119n25 , 122 , 130
segmentation 31n105 , 176
Segré Reinach, Simona 91n17 , 92 , 92n18 , 92n22 , 109
self-exploitation 21
self-portraits 9 , 254
self-portraiture 248
selfhood 9 , 46
selfie 44 , 52
Selfridges 164
semiotic 46 , 193 , 202 , 267
Sennett, Richard 24 , 24n57 , 25 , 40
Serie Numerica 96 , 96n40
servitude 117 , 127
sex 74 , 81 , 113–117 , 119–120 , 122 , 125 , 127 , 127n52 , 128–130 , 201–204 , 206n39 , 207–213 , 215 , 220 , 226 , 247n1 , 264 , 266
Sex in the City 266
Shakespeare, William 88 , 88n1 , 109 , 282n64 , 284
Shapton, Leanne 47 , 47n18 , 67
Sherman, Cindy 9 , 252 , 253 , 253n22 , 254 , 262–263 , 265
Sherry, John F. 39 , 105n82 , 108 , 153
Shire, Emily 200n13 , 227
shoes 10 , 60 , 96 , 230 , 232 , 232n15 , 244 , 266–267 , 269–270 , 276–277 , 280–281
shopping 26 , 34 , 35n128 , 37 , 53 , 104 , 154–155 , 158–159 , 162
shorts 43 , 180
Sicily 9 , 232–233 , 237 , 237n31 , 238–239 , 239n34 , 245 , 283
Siegle, Lucy 40
silhouette 175 , 177 , 179–181 , 183–185 , 187 , 190–191 , 209 , 241
silk 71 , 78 , 184 , 266–267 , 277–278 , 280–282
Silva, Paul J. 102n66 , 109
Simmel, Georg 60 , 60n69 , 67
Simpson, Wallis 69 , 77 , 81–85
Siobhan 39
Sisley 125
skater 56
skinny jeans 58 , 63
skirt 48 , 56 , 75–76 , 78 , 125 , 175 , 188–189 , 191 , 209 , 217–218 , 218n96 , 219 , 222 , 229 , 280
Skov, Lise 23 , 23n54 , 27 , 27n88 , 40
Sloan Square 164
slow 20 , 24–25 , 25n64 , 25n67 , 36–38 , 171 , 200 , 220 , 222
slow fashion 20 , 21 , 25 , 25n67 , 33 , 33n122 , 37–38
slow movement 25
Smart Baby Suit 103
Smith, Paul 163 , 187
Smith, Roberta 253 , 253n22 , 265
Smurfs 62
sneakers 43 , 55 , 59 , 277 , 279
social capital 137–138 , 141 , 143–144
Social Identity Theory 157
social media 27 , 27n80 , 28 , 32 , 40 , 44 , 52 , 149
socio-cultural 44 , 52 , 159 , 202 , 207
sociology 1 , 6 , 42 , 60n69 , 67 , 117n21 , 131 , 137n17 , 137n21 , 140n39 , 148–149 , 202n19 , 217n92 , 223 , 225
socks 58
Sofiane 254n24
Solar Car 91
Solomon, Michael R. 157n9 , 174 , 237
Sorrenti, Mario 186–187 , 187n24 , 189–192
Sorronda, Gail 28 , 28n90 , 29 , 29n98 , 31 , 31n108 , 33 , 33n118 , 34 , 37–39
South Africa 9 , 217
South Korea 100 , 100n61 , 108
spatio-temporal relations 176
speculation 155
Spetic, Karla 228
Spooner, Catharine 269 , 269n8 , 281 , 284
Stacey, Martin 40
Starck, Philippe 101
Stark, David 32n113 , 40
statelessness 254
status 6 , 18 , 20 , 33 , 42 , 48 , 78 , 127 , 133 , 144 , 159 , 230 , 242 , 242n42 , 243 , 245
Stefanic, Tiana 136 , 136n13 , 150
Stein, Dieter 126 , 131 , 142n52 , 149
stereotypes 128–129 , 146 , 200n13 , 213–214 , 252
Stevens, Lorna 117n20 , 125 , 125n43 , 131
Stevenson, Angus 17n19 , 18n23
Stewart, Jay 204n31 , 227
still-life 120
Stone, Alicia 97 , 124 , 141n44
Stoppard, Lou 236 , 236n29 , 239 , 2239n36 , 46
Stotler, Nina 239 , 239n35 , 239n36 , 239n37 , 246
street 31 , 45 , 48 , 48n28 , 49 , 51 , 53 , 54 , 55 , 56 , 60 , 78 , 132 , 134 , 135 , 136n15 , 136n16 , 140 , 141n41 , 141n42 , 142n48 , 143n58 , 144n61 , 145 , 145n69 , 149 , 150 , 161 , 161n18 , 162 , 164 , 171 , 174 , 234 , 247 , 279
Street, Sarah 197n1 , 227
street-style 3 , 6 , 43 , 45 , 48 , 48n28 , 49 , 49n31 , 50 , 50n31 , 50n36 , 50n41 , 51 , 51n44 , 53n45 , 53n49 , 54 , 54n54 , 54n57 , 56n60 , 57n62 , 57n63 , 67 , 68
strength 76 , 84
stripes 43 , 56 , 180 , 188–189
struggles of visibility 137
Strübel-Scheiner, Jessica 227
Stulberg, Lisa 200n11 , 200n14 , 227
Sturken, Marita 194
sub-culture 31
subculture 1 , 42 , 49 , 49n29 , 50 , 53–54 , 61 , 67 , 210 , 242
subjugation 10
submission 76 , 122 , 271 , 279
subversion 6 , 48–49 , 76 , 78 , 120 , 123 , 202n23 , 208 , 223 , 240
Sudden Infant Death 103
Suitcase Pleats Model 96
Sun, Darren D. 92
superficial 42 , 49 , 59 , 138–140 , 169
superheroes 62
supermarket of style 63 , 63n72 , 67
Surrealism 73 , 74n14 , 75 , 87
Surrealist 69 , 74–75 , 77–79 , 81 , 85–86 , 230
sustainability 25n68 , 38–39 , 90
sustainable 4 , 17 , 21 , 27 , 33n121 , 34 , 34n125 , 39 , 41 , 42n1 , 66 , 89n9 , 91 , 107
Suzii K 28 , 28n93 , 31 , 32 , 32n112 , 33 , 33n117 , 40
Svendsen, Lars 47n19 , 67
Swan, Noelle 15n3 , 25 , 25n70
Swarovski 91
Swarowski 91n15
Sweetman, Paul 71n5 , 87
Swide 234n19 , 236 , 236n28 , 244 , 246
swimwear 239
Sydney 30n100 , 33 , 38–40
symbolic 3 , 46 , 124 , 147 , 153 , 157–158 , 158n11 , 174 , 250 , 267 , 273 , 278 , 280
symbolic capital 10 , 133 , 137–139 , 141–143 , 145–147
t-shirt 49 , 60 , 217
Tain, John 252 , 252n18 , 253 , 264
Tajfel, Henri 157
Taras, David 143n54 , 150
taxonomies 7 , 175 , 177 , 192 , 193
Taylor, Phil 139n31
tcf (Textile Clothing and Footwear) 28 , 28n89 , 38
Tear Dress and Veil 69
Tel Aviv Contemporary Art Museum 99
tensions 6 , 125 , 128 , 146 , 276
terroir 5 , 20n35 , 99 , 99n55
tesserae 232
Teunissen, José 152n2 , 152n3 , 174
Tewksbury, Richard 198n6 , 202n19 , 224
Tharp, Twyla 17n16
The Age of Innocence 270 , 270n11 , 284
The Birdcage 8 , 199 , 199n7 , 201n17 , 203n27 , 224–225 , 227
The British Fashion Council 42 , 67
The Custom of the Country 271 , 273 , 284
The House of Mirth 270 , 270n14 , 273 , 273n30 , 284
The Hunger Games 267 , 281 , 281n61 , 282n65 , 283
The Lace Market 53
The Mother’s Recompense 10 , 271 , 272n20 , 273 , 273n29 , 273n31 , 284
The New Visibility 141n45
The New York Times 34n26 , 38 , 126n47 , 131 , 238n32 , 243n46 , 245 , 253n22 , 265
The Sartorialist 50 , 50n38 , 50n40 , 67
The Society of the Spectacle 259 , 259n27 , 264
Theodora 237 , 237n30 , 245
Thomas, Boje 38
Thomas, Julia 194
Thompson, Craig J. 26n77
Thompson, John B. 141n45 , 150
Thompson, Paul B. 18n20
Thonet Chair 99
Thorburn, David 89n3 , 109
Thornton, Minna 84 , 84n38 , 86
Throsby, David 30n100 , 40
Tiffany & Co. 166
Tiffany’s 166 , 166n20 , 173 , 273
tights 56 , 59 , 176 , 180
Time Magazine 132
Titton, Monica 48n28 , 67 , 136n16 , 150
To Wong Foo, Thanks for Everything! Julie Newmar! 8 , 199 , 199n7 , 201n17 , 214n77 , 224–225 , 227
Tod’s 78
Tokyo 61 , 92 , 101
Tommaso Cecchi De’ Rossi 4 , 88 , 92–93 , 93n34 , 94 , 94n27 , 94n29 , 94n30 , 94n31 , 94n33 , 94n34 , 95 , 95n35 , 95n36 , 95n37 , 96n42 , 96n43 , 96n45 , 97n50 , 97n51 , 98 , 98n52 , 99n54 , 107–108
Tondo, Marcus 188n25
top-down 144 , 146
Topshop 55–56 , 59
Torres, Manel 103
track-suit 62
tracksuit 55
trade 15n7 , 17–18 , 26 , 39 , 137 , 137n24 , 148 , 191–192
Tradition in Action 229 , 229n7 , 244 , 246
trainers 59
trans 204 , 207
transgender 9 , 118 , 197 , 198n6 , 199 , 200 , 200n11 , 200n12 , 200n14 , 200n15 , 201 , 202n21 , 204 , 204n31 , 205–207 , 210–212 , 216 , 220–222 , 224–225 , 227
transgressive 115 , 117–118 , 126 , 129 , 219 , 221
transience 151
transintelligibility 8 , 197
transvestite 204
trend 3 , 23 , 25 , 33–35 , 35n132 , 37 , 47–49 , 52–53 , 56–60 , 65 , 76 , 83 , 105 , 105n79 , 117 , 175 , 198n3 , 217–219 , 229 , 233
trickle-down 49
Trifari 232 , 233n16 , 246
tropes 8 , 183 , 208 , 243 , 248–249 , 254 , 258 , 262
trousers 43 , 49 , 56 , 217–218
trousseau 81
Tseëlon, Efrat 47 , 48n22 , 65 , 65n73 , 67
tulle 76 , 266 , 270 , 275–276
Tungate, Mark 136n14 , 142n50 , 150
Turner, Graeme 227
Turner, John 157
Tuscany 93–94
twentieth century 48 , 50 , 99 , 170 , 175 , 193 , 214n77 , 215 , 223 , 231 , 253 , 259
Twilight 279 , 279n56 , 280n60 , 284
Udale, Jenny 194
Ugg 43 , 57–59 , 62
Ulrich Gumbrecht, Hans 87 , 71n6
undergarments 175
Underwood, Lisa 202n24 , 212n65 , 214n75 , 226
unesco 26 , 26n72 , 40
United Kingdom 3 , 53 , 183 , 201 , 206n42 , 224
United Nations 89n9 , 107
Upshaw, Lynn B. 153n4 , 174
urban 3 , 30–31 , 31n105 , 49–50 , 57 , 100 , 145 , 155 , 157 , 160 , 257–258
Urban Garden 157
Urban Outfitters 145
Urbee 2 Hybrid 3-Wheel Car 103 , 103n74
us Navy 102
vagina dentata 81 , 81n31
Valade, Aymeline 187 , 187n24 , 190–191
Valentino 228 , 233–234
van Beijeren, Abraham 120–121
Van De Port, Mattijs 230n8 , 246
Van der Pol, Hendrick 26n72 , 27 , 27n85 , 40
van der Wal, Ernst 227
Van Riet, Peter 100
Vanity Fair 211n63 , 218 , 218n94 , 227 , 230
Varriano, John 123 , 124 , 124n37 , 124n40 , 125n42 , 131
Vatican 239
Vaughan, Graham 157n10 , 174
Veblen, Thorstein 42n3 , 67
vegetables 124 , 124n37 , 124n40 , 125n42 , 131
veil 69 , 208 , 255 , 266–268 , 278 , 281–282
Venkatesh, Alladi 39
Vent Vert Apartments 92
verisimilitude 235–238 , 240
Versace, Gianni 232
versatility 98
Victoria Pass 74n13 , 74n14
Victoria Shopping Centre 53
Victoria’s Secret 235 , 246
Victorian 15n6 , 41 , 175 , 268 , 269n9 , 271 , 271n18 , 283–284
video 34 , 77 , 103n75 , 108 , 166n21 , 174 , 193 , 199n8 , 230n8 , 234n19 , 245–246 , 248 , 259
Videodrome 249 , 251 , 253
Vigo, Julian 262–263 , 263n42 , 265
violence 122
Virani, Tarek E. 41
Virgin Mary 237
visibility 9 , 133 , 136–139 , 141 , 141n45 , 142 , 143 , 147 , 150 , 197 , 200 , 200n11 , 200n14 , 201 , 205–206 , 211n63 , 216 , 221–222 , 227 , 251
Vogue 7 , 29 , 37 , 69 , 75–79 , 81–85 , 87 , 93n25 , 94n28 , 97 , 107–108 , 120 , 120n29 , 135 , 142 , 177 , 186 , 232 , 232n15 , 233 , 233n16 , 233n17 , 239n33 , 243n46 , 244–246
Vogue Paris 125 , 126 , 126n45 , 126n46 , 131
von Unwerth, Ellen 114 , 122 , 124–125 , 125n41 , 129 , 131
voyeuristic 120
W Magazines 186
W2 145
Wall Street International Magazine 97 , 107
Walsh, Sylvia 15n6 , 41
waltz 75–76 , 76n20 , 87
Wang, Jeff 39
Warhol, Andy 176
Warwick, Alexandra 46n13 , 66
Wattanasuwan, Kritsadarat 157 , 158n11 , 174
Wave Code A-Z 177
weapon 10 , 279 , 281–282
weaponry 10 , 102 , 102n71 , 266 , 283
Weaver, James B. 206n39 , 226
Web 2.0 15 , 26 , 32
weblog 28 , 144n64 , 149
website 28 , 32 , 56 , 80 , 91n15 , 92n20 , 93n24 , 95n37 , 95n38 , 96n39 , 96n40 , 100 , 100n58 , 100n59 , 101 , 103n72 , 236 , 254n25
wedding 10 , 69 , 81–83 , 208 , 266n1 , 266n2 , 267 , 267n3 , 269–276 , 276n41 , 277 , 277n44 , 278–284
Weiss, Shari 218n94 , 227
Weller, Sally A. 23n53 , 31n105
West, Kanye 222 , 227
Westbury, Marcus 15 , 15n1 , 15n5 , 30n104
Westerfelhaus, Robert 206n42 , 206n43 , 206n46 , 223 , 227
Western 78 , 114 , 120 , 193 , 197–198 , 200n13 , 201 , 205–206 , 208–209 , 211 , 214–215 , 217 , 219–220 , 266
Westwood, Vivienne 145 , 187
Wharton, Edith 10 , 266n1 , 266n2 , 268n5 , 270 , 270n11 , 270n14 , 272n19 , 272n20 , 273 , 273n28 , 273n29 , 273n30 , 273n31 , 275 , 283–284
White Milano 98–99
Whitney Biennial 252
Wiley, Jennifer 38–40 , 153n4 , 174 , 205n34
Williams, Matthew 204n32 , 227
Williams, Pharrell 218
Williamson, Judith 194
Wilson, Elizabeth 48n27 , 68 , 70 , 70n3 , 71n5 , 87 , 114 , 114n7 , 126n47 , 172n24 , 174
Wilson, Eric 131
Windsor 69 , 81 , 81n30 , 81n32 , 82 , 84 , 87 , 278
Winterhalter, Cecilia 4–5 , 88
Wintour, Anna 69 , 78–79
Witt, Ulrich 33n121 , 41
Wolf, Lori 201n18 , 223
womanhood 117n20 , 125 , 125n43 , 131 , 268
Wongkaew, Manrutt 7–8 , 175 , 182 , 186 , 188 , 192 , 194
Woodward, Sophie 46n15 , 47 , 47n16 , 47n17 , 51n44 , 53n45 , 53n49 , 54 , 54n54 , 56 , 56n60 , 57 , 57n63 , 58n65 , 67–68
Wordspy 153n5 , 174
workmanship 169
World War ii 184
worm’s-eye-view 190
Wren, Max 249
Wuthnow, Robert 242 , 242n44 , 242n45 , 246
Wyma, Chloe 229 , 229n5 , 229n6 , 239n35 , 246
Yan, Ruoh-Han 33 , 37
Yando, Krystie 103n76 , 109
youth 42 , 48–50 , 54 , 272 , 275
Zarley Watson, Maegan 33n122 , 37
Zayan, Lucien 252n17 , 265
Zhang, Chi 132n4 , 150
Zonnani, Valentina 236n28 , 246
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Fashion and Contemporaneity

Realms of the Visible

Series:  At the Interface / Probing the Boundaries, Volume: 102
Cover Fashion and Contemporaneity
E-Book ISBN:
9789004392250
Publisher:
Brill
Print Publication Date:
27 Mar 2019

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