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Open Access

Index

Page numbers in bold refer to illustrations.

Although it is not customary, two interviewees are nevertheless included in the index, namely Asmae and Enes. As their interviews take up a complete chapter this seemed helpful to the user.

ʿAbd al-ʿAzīz ibn al-Saʿūd, King of Saudi Arabia 62–64, 183, 192, 196, 207
see also Saudi pilgrimage governance; Wahhābism/Wahhābīs
ʿAbd al-Mālik, Umayyad Caliph 46–47
al-ʿAbdarī 52, 53, 55, 56, 205
ʿAbdullah, Sharif and Emir of Mecca 167
Abou Anas, Nader 306, 310n9
Abū al-ʿAẓāʾim, Muḥammad Māḍī 196
Abū Bakr al-Ṣiddīq 81
Abū Ḥanīfa 97–98
Abū al-Ḥusayn b. Jahẓam 100–101
Abū Shuʿayb Mughannā Miṣrī 98n12
accommodation, and ṣabr 338–339, 341
ādāb (conventions) 54, 129
Adam 261, 308
Adham, Ibrahīm 98
adhān (call for prayer) 285
Afshār Orumi, Mirzā ʿAbd al-Ḥoseyn Khān 157, 172
agency
and communion 248–249, 268–269, 271
and coping strategies 248
definition of 248
and digital technology 365
of young Muslims 376, 396
air travel 8, 17, 230
airport screening 19, 354–355, 356, 359
ʿĀʾisha (Prophet’s wife) 233
Al-Ajarma, Kholoud 11–12, 13, 18, 19, 28, 277–296, 391–417, 423, 424
ajr (religious merit) 348
Akhmadullin, Viacheslav 222
Ākhundzāde, Fatḥ ʿAli 146
Alawi, Amir Ahmad 218–219
ʿAlī b. Muwaffaq al-Baghdādī 98n12
ʿAlī b. Shuʿayb al-Saqqā 98n12
ʿAlī ibn Ḥusayn, King of Hijaz and Sharif of Mecca (d. 1935) 192
ʿĀliye Khānom
hajj/ʿumra account of
anti-Arab statements in 171
anti-Sunni statements in 167, 168
fireworks on night of ʿāshūrāʾ 167–168
frankness in 162
guardian in 176–177
Ḥājja status in 178–179
men in 176
non-believers in 170
safety/unsafety in 171
sea voyage in 166
itinerary of 165
Aljamiado manuscripts 75–76, 82, 83–84, 86, 88
Alkhattab, Brother 410–411
ambivalence
and ṣabr 325–336, 345, 425
in smartphone use 397, 408, 411, 417
amīr al-ḥajj
in general 324
duties of 80–81, 87
Hüseyin Paşa 123, 131
Khwarazmī, Sharīf al-Dīn Ḥusayn 102
Amnesty International 354
al-ʿAmrānī, ʿAbd al-Salām ibn Muḥammad al-Muʿṭī 187, 189, 199
Anderson, Benedict 279
Anna Karenina (Tolstoy) 426
anthropology
and hajj/ʿumra/hajj/ʿumra accounts 12, 54–55, 66
senses in 278–279
see also moral registers
anti-Sunni statements, in Shiʿi hajj/ʿumra accounts 154, 163–164, 167
Appadurai, Arjun 398
apps/applications see hajj applications, for smartphones
ʿaqīq ring 362
Arabs, portrayal in hajj/ʿumra accounts 170–175
ʿArafa
in general 6, 48, 134
centrality to hajj of 124–126, 308–309
compared to ʿAraṣāt 125–126
donning of pilgrim garb at 126, 135
in hajj/ʿumra accounts 6, 124, 211–212
and Last Judgement 49
rituals performed at 120–121, 154, 308
ʿAraṣāt 125–126
Asad, Talal 333
ʿāshūrāʾ 167–168
ʿĀşık Çelebī 118
Asmae (interviewee)
approach to Islam 259, 268–269
belonging/not-belonging 258–259, 265–266
biographical information 258–259
free choice 270
God as nurturing power 262, 269
hajj/ʿumras of
first ʿumra
being in iḥrām 260–261
Kaʿba 261
male guardian 260
motivation 260–261
second ʿumra
connection to God 261–262
male guardian 261
hajj
belonging/not-belonging 265–266
difference between hajj and ʿumra 263
engaging with other pilgrims 264–265
following own path 265, 347
life lessons derived from 263, 265, 272
Minā 264
motivation 262
as direct sign of God 270
enjoyment 269
genderedness of experience 271–272
personal transformation 269
social context 267–268
spiritual ambiance 272
Moroccan gender roles 259
religious background 259–260
on Saudi Arabia 266
aspiring pilgrims
expectations of 13, 134, 186, 199, 329, 370
instructions for 53, 58, 65, 127, 133, 162
longing for hajj/ʿumra 119–121
mentoring of 384
preparations of 324–325, 326, 339, 395, 399–400
and souvenirs 22
and Zamzam water 116, 118
Association Entraide 306–307
ʿĀtiḳ Meḥmed Paşa 118
ʿAṭṭār, Farīd al-Dīn 92, 94
audiences
of ‘Coplas del peregrino de Puey Monçón’ 87
of Farhād Mirzā’s account 145, 157–158
intended 16–18, 26
of al-Miḍārī’s account 219
of Yaʿqub Mirzā’s account 140, 143, 157–158
auditory experiences 284–286
Australian pilgrims 344, 396
authentic self 270
automobiles/buses 212–213
autonomy see agency
ʿawāmm (common people) 95
awe (rahba)
in general 3, 31, 279
as religious feeling 20–21, 24, 186, 199
see also sensational forms
ʿAwn al-Rafīq, Sharif and Emir of Mecca 167
ʿAyn al-Quḍāt Hamadānī 95
al-ʿAyyāshī, Abdallāh 57
Azamiyya order 196
Bāb al-Salām (‘The Gate of Peace’) 121, 123, 129
Babakhanov, Ziyauddin-khan 221, 234
Bachtin, Piotr 13, 18, 27, 161–180, 425
backwards, retiring 124, 130
al-Badawī, Aḥmad 107
baile (Spanish official) 77–78, 79
Bajc, Vida 20
Bāḳī Maḥmūd ʿAbdülbāḳī 118
Baku 146
bank loans 314
al-Bannā, Ḥasan 319
al-Baqīʿ cemetery (Medina) 106, 155, 172, 194, 213, 362
Baqlī, Rūzbihān 92
baraka (blessing)
and camera/smartphone use 415
and Ḥājji/Ḥājja status 178–179
and Sufi networks 107, 108
and touching/rubbing 121, 256, 289, 290–291
transmissibility of 415n31
of Zamzam water 22, 292
and ziyāras 50, 105, 193
Bareither, Christoph 413
al-Batanūnī, Muḥammad Labīb
hajj/ʿumra account of
in general 184
on Hijaz under the sharifs 196–197
longing in 194–195
quarantine facilities in al-Ṭūr in 189–190, 191
on seeing the Kaʿba 198–199
Bayazīd (son of Sultan Sulaymān) 102
Bāyazīd Bisṭāmī 93
Bedouins, portrayal in hajj/ʿumra accounts 56, 87, 169, 197
belonging/not-belonging
in general 2, 19, 300–301
Asmae (interviewee) on 258–259, 262, 265–266
of Dutch Muslims 12
Ben Ayad, Mohamed 325
Bianchi, Robert 312
bidʿa (illegimate innovation) 64, 192, 354
birds 1, 3, 13–14, 232
Birka al-Ḥajj 80, 82
black (siyāh) 172
black people 172–174
Black Stone (al-Ḥajar al-Aswad)
and face rubbing 121
kissing of 49, 106, 211, 255–256
overcrowding around 133, 205
scenting of 287
blackness 172–173
bled (place of origin) 303, 318, 320
blessings see baraka
bloggers, female 314
see also hajj blogs/vlogs
Bobrovnikov, Vladimir 18, 221–237, 427
bodily piety 124, 129, 130, 131, 135
bodily sensations 3, 279, 281
Borshchagovskiy, Alexander 226
Bounemcha, Hassan 306
Bourdieu, Pierre 382
Bräuchler, Birgit 391
Breve compendio de la santa ley y sunna (Mancebo de Arévalo) 84
British-Pakistani pilgrims 334, 346, 405, 409n21
brotherhood oaths 154
al-Būdālī, Shaykh Ibrahīm 208, 209
Būdāliyya order 209, 214
Buitelaar, Marjo 1–33, 245–273, 280, 323–350, 391–417, 423, 424–425, 427, 428
bukhūr (incense) 287, 288
Bulūgh al-marām bi-al-riḥla ilā Bayt Allāh al-ḥarām (al-Zabādī al-Murādī) 92, 105–108
Burckhardt, John Lewis 66
al-Burnusī, Sīdī Aḥmad al-Zarrūq 105
Bursi, Adam 289
buses see automobiles/buses
al-Būṣīrī 106
Caidi, Nadia 13, 16, 18, 19, 30, 369–386, 412, 427
calendar, Sunni vs. Shiʿi 154
call for prayer (adhān) 285
camel rides 141
caravans
‘Flying Caravan’ 173n5
in Iranian accounts 156
leaders of see amīr al-ḥajj
multicultural composition 102–103
ships and trains replacing 187, 207
of Sufi masters 97, 102–103
cars see automobiles/buses
cartoons, in Dar on dunye (Muhammadiev) 232, 234
Cassasas Canals, Xavier 77–78
Caucasus, travelling through 149–150
Çelebī, ʿĀşık 118
Çelebī, Evliyā see Evliyā Çelebī
Celebrity Hajj 323–324, 325, 337, 339, 347
Chiffoleau, Sylvia 176–177, 185
children, hajj/ʿumra of 308
cholera 60, 180, 188
Christian pilgrims
first sighting of Jerusalem 26n34, 27n35
motivation of 273n24
use of song by 337n17
circumambulation of Kaʿba see ṭawāf
Cobbold, Evelyn 67
Coleman, Simon 22n23, 345, 422–429
colonialism
European see under Europe
and hajj/ʿumra 8, 11, 183
in Soviet travelogues 225
commercialization
of hajj/ʿumra 1, 2–3, 4, 5
of transportation 138, 156, 187
see also consumerism
common people (ʿawāmm) 95
communion
and agency 248–249, 268–269, 271
definition of 248
Communist Party 223, 224
consumerism 2, 4, 14, 267, 300, 327–328, 348–349, 382, 384, 409n21
contagion, emotional 20
Cook, Miriam 383
coping strategies 248
‘Coplas del peregrino de Puey Monçón’
in general 426
background of 76–79, 86–88
content of 79–81
dating of 76, 77–78
as idealized hajj account 87
identity of author 78
missing parts of 76
readership of 87
co-presence 31, 391, 413–415, 414
Corral, Muḥammad 82–83
Coşkun, Menderes 118
Costa, Elisabetta 392
COVID-19 pandemic 369
crying see weeping
Cyrillic script 229, 230
Dalāʾil al-khayrāt (al-Jazūlī) 50–51, 66, 107–108, 116
Dāmād Muṣṭafa Paşa 114
Daniel, Elton 158
Dar on dunye (Muhammadiev) 223
in general 222, 236, 237, 427
blasphemous stance in 231–233, 236–237
companions in 232
criticism on 235
cuts and changes to 235
hajj rituals in 229, 233, 236
language usage in 230–231
Orientalism in 227
and political issues 18
Qurbon Majidov in 225–226, 231, 232, 236
reception of 234–235, 236
Russian translation of
in general 233
cartoons in 232, 234
first full 235–236
as source for further translations 236
see also Muhammadiev, Fazliddin
Darqawiyya-Shādhiliyya order 208
dating, of ‘Coplas del peregrino de Puey Monçón’ 76, 77–78
Davidson, Joyce 280
Delaney, Carol 178n8, 344–345
delīls see hajj guides (persons)
Dervīş Meḥmed Ẓıllī Agha 113
Dervish Bahrām 104
desire see longing
destruction, of Islamic antiquities 63–64, 192–193, 208, 210
Dhū al-Nūn al-Miṣrī 94
diaries 161, 162, 374
didactic purposes see educational purposes
Digital Anthropology (Miller and Horst) 397
digital technology
in everyday life 377
and hajj/ʿumra
in general 19, 371, 416–417, 427–428
advantages 359–360, 363, 364–365, 366–367, 376
agency 365
choice of religious scholars 364–365
disadvantages 356, 360, 362–363
Janmohamed’s experiences 366–367
men vs. women 365–366
organizers perspectives 359–363
pilgrims perspectives 363–365
Saudi censorship rules 354–355
Shiʿi’s experiences 19, 354–355, 357, 359–367
specialized apps 377
women’s safety 362, 364
younger vs. older generation 365
and theory of attainment 396
see also smartphone use
Dinet, Étienne 67
diplomas (ijāzas) 55, 56, 106, 107, 108
discomforts, during hajj/ʿumra 288, 337, 339, 343, 348
see also negative experiences
discrimination
and knowledge of Islam 306
against Shiʿi pilgrims 56, 168, 357, 360–362
of women 175–176, 341–342, 347–348, 349
diseases see illnesses
Disneyland/Disney movies 1, 2–3, 4, 5, 364
disputes, settling of 401–402
distractions 307, 314, 360
divorce 309–310
Diyanet (Turkish mosque organization) 252
Dowlatshāh, Moḥammad ʿAli Mirzā 139
dressing, modesty in 381, 385
Druzhba narodov (journal) 235–236
duʿā (supplication prayers)
in general 30, 305
in hajj/ʿumra accounts
in general 286
al-ʿAmrānī 199
Asmae (interviewee) 261, 262, 263
Murād ibn Dervīş on 124
for Shiʿi pilgrims
digital technologies 19, 354–355, 357
Saudi censorship rules 19, 354–355, 356
dunyo, meaning of word 227
Dutch pilgrims
assertiveness of 344
hajj blogs 18
hajj/ʿumra accounts of
in general 272–273
emergent vs. maturing stories 329–330, 349–350
gender 14, 271–272, 328, 341–343, 349, 350
group dynamics 331
individualism 14, 328, 343, 347–348, 349, 350, 396
personal transformation 263, 265, 269–270, 272
ṣabr see ṣabr
hajj/ʿumra of
in general 12, 14–15, 246
employer’s permission 246n5
motivation for 246, 249, 251, 260–261, 262, 350
ṣabr see ṣabr
as self-disciplining act 350
smartphone use of see smartphone use
see also Asmae; Enes
Ecker, Thomas 18, 27, 138–158, 424
ecstasy (cezbe)
in general 134
in Nābī’s account 123
of Sufi pilgrims 17, 99, 104, 107, 108
educational purposes
of hajj/ʿumra accounts 141, 145
of Iranian travelogues 148, 162
De Efteling (theme park) 4
Egypt
hajj/ʿumra accounts from 66
see also under specific Egyptian pilgrims
Muslims in, and ṣabr 333–334, 344
quarantine camps in 188–191
el-Rūmī, Sinān 124, 131, 132
El-Sayed, Laila 32
el-Sincārī, Ebü’l-Fażl 118
Elsner, John 22n23, 345
el-Yemenī, Meḥmed 118
emotional affordance 413
emotions
of encounter 32
in hajj/ʿumra accounts
in general 24–27, 32, 49–50, 184–186
al-ʿAmrānī 199
al-Batanūnī 198–199
everyday life 29–30
Evliyā Çelebī see Evliyā Çelebī
gender differences 29
Nābī see Nābī, Yūsuf
negative experiences see negative experiences
virtues of non-display in 190
see also awe; longing; weeping
inclusion/exclusion and 29
as social constructs 115
see also under specific emotions
Enʿām-ı șerīf 116
Enes (interviewee)
in general 24
biographical information 250–251
engagement with Islam 257, 268
free choice 270
God as nurturing power 269
grandfather as role model 253, 268, 270, 428
hajj/ʿumra of
as direct sign of God 270
enjoyment in 269
food sharing among pilgrims 257
genderedness of experience 271–272
helalleşmek party 253, 267–268
Kaʿba
absence of tears 255
falling in love with 254–255
rubbing souvenirs against 256
motivation 251
preparations 252–253, 427–428
as salvation 252, 257–258
showing photographs of 257
social context of 267–268
spiritual ambiance 272
visit to Medina 253
Zamzam water 256–257
naughtiness phase 251–252
personal transformation 269
religious upbringing 251
English language 358
Ennasri, Nabil 306
Epalza Ferrer, Mikel de 82
erotic interests 142–143
Esmāʿil i, Safawid Shah 168
ʿEṣmat al-Salṭane, Mehrmāh Khānom 165, 168–169, 172, 173
ethical entrepreneurship 342
etiquettes, for Sufi pilgrims 97, 99
Europe
colonial rule in Middle East 11, 59–61, 206
pilgrims from see European pilgrims
supervising of hajj by 59–60, 183, 207
European pilgrims
hajj/ʿumra accounts of 66–67
see also Spain
hajj/ʿumra of 246, 267
see also under specific countries
European/Europeanized women 150–151
Eve 193, 210, 211, 213, 308
everyday life
forgetting 19, 123, 405–406, 407
and hajj/ʿumra experiences 4–5, 29–30, 327
post-hajj phase 265, 350
presence of Mecca in 22–23, 392
religiosity in 50
technology in 370–371, 377
Evliyā Çelebī
biographical information 113–114
hajj/ʿumra account of
in general 113, 114
emotions in
in general 115, 134
benefits of ʿArafa 125, 126
entering Mecca 122
entering Medina 127
entering the ḥujra 131
first sight of Kaʿba 123
in-person guides 123–124, 132
seeing dome of Prophet’s tomb 127–128
ziyāra as act of love 132
ziyāra to Prophet’s tomb 128–130
face rubbing in 121
as hajj guide 131–132
Ḥaramayn in 119
leaving calligraphy at Prophet’s grave 130–131
leaving crystal oil lamp at Prophet’s grave 131
longing for hajj 119–121
negative aspects of hajj 133
ritual at ʿArafa 120–121
expectations, of hajj/ʿumra 13, 134, 186, 199, 329, 370
Ezer, Ozlem 266n20
face rubbing (yüz sürmek) 121, 129
see also Black Stone
Facebook 18, 283, 304, 376, 411, 412, 413, 423
Farāhāni, Mirzā Mohammed Ḥoseyn 157, 158, 167–168, 173n5
farḍ (religious obligation) 303
see also ʿibādāt; religious obligations
farewell parties 267–268, 403–405, 416
Farhād Mirzā Moʿtamad al-Dowle (d. 1889)
biographical information 143–144
daughter of see ʿEṣmat al-Salṭane, Mehrmāh Khānom
dismissal from court 144, 147, 153
hajj/ʿumra account of
audience with Sultan 146, 151
compared to
Iranian travelogues 148–149
Yaʿqub Mirzā’s account 149–156
as compilation of texts 148–149
criticism on Ottoman Empire 155–156
educational purpose 145
European culture/food 151
European/Europeanized women 150–151
hajj/ʿumra rituals 153
interactions with political officials 146–147
as legitimization 153
modern technology 152
readership 145, 157–158
reciting poetry at Prophet’s tomb 152–153
reference to other works 145, 148
religious information 145
Sunni vs. Shiʿi calendar 154
itinerary of 144
poems of 147
Fatḥ ʿAli Shāh, Shah of Iran 139, 165
Fāṭima (Prophet’s daughter) 81, 211
fatwā collections 48
fayrūz ring 362
Feast of Immolation (Kurban Bayramı) 126
female pilgrims
from France
family logistics 313–314
financing of hajj 313, 315–316
guardians 311
Ḥājji/Ḥājja status 311
increase 299
younger vs. older generation 307–308, 312–313
hajj/ʿumra of
chanting the talbiya 28
guardians 4, 162, 246n5
iḥrām clothes 28
restrictive measures 29, 289–290, 341
saʿy rite 28–29
from Iran
hajj/ʿumra accounts of
in general 162–163, 425–426
ʿĀliye Khānom see ʿĀliye Khānom
anonymous women from Tabas 165, 169–170, 172, 174–175
anti-Arab statements 170–171, 172
anti-Sunni statements 163–164, 167, 168
black people 172–175
blackness of Arabs 172
change of status after hajj 178–179
discrimination of women 175–176
ʿEṣmat al-Salṭane 165, 168–169, 172, 173
frankness 162
husbands consenting to hajj 175
inferiority of Sunnis 169–170
men 176, 180
non-believers 170
Shahrbānu Beygom 164
Vaqār al-Dowle 166
and literary self-expression 163
‘thrice Othering’ of 163
percentage of 4
religious capital of 306, 385
safety/unsafety of 362, 364
Ferrer, Epalza 77
fertility 312
Fevrī 118
financing, of hajj/ʿumra 4, 8, 313–316, 359
Finke, Roger 383
fireworks 167–168
first sightings
by Christian pilgrims, of Jerusalem 26n34, 27n35
by Muslim pilgrims
of Kaʿba 3, 4, 24, 106, 123, 198–199, 254–255, 261, 281–283
of Prophet’s tomb 127–128, 152
‘flow-form’ of mobility 9, 428n6
‘Flying Caravan’ 173n5
food
in hajj/ʿumra accounts
Enes (interviewee) 257
al-Miḍārī 214–216
tasting and sharing 292–293
provisions for hajj/ʿumra 80, 208, 210, 216
and ṣabr 337–338
forgetting, everyday life 19, 123, 405–406, 407
forgiveness
asking for
from friends and relatives 267–268, 401–402, 403, 416
from God 6n12, 19, 103, 123, 125, 308
see also sins
France
Muslims in
break with religion of older generation 303, 320
divorce rate 309
loyalty to ‘home’ countries 300–301
and mahr 315–317
middle class 300, 313
tourism of 317–318
see also French pilgrims
study of Islam in 301
free choice, in religious development 270
French pilgrims
consumerism 300
hajj/ʿumra of
in general 14–15, 299–300
converts, motivation of 311
financing 313–316
increase 299
marriage or 307
migratory memories 319–320
motivation
in general 300, 301, 303–304, 319–320
knowledge of Islam 304–306
other forms of travel
in general 317–318, 320
to discover heritage 318–319, 320
religious teachers as guides 304–305, 320
young couples 309
in general 299, 301, 320
bringing children 308
ethnically mixed marriages 310–311
motivation 308–312
vs. older generation 307–308
as repetitive event 308
friendship/companionship, between Sufis 97–98
al-Fuḍayl ibn ʿIyāḍ 97–98
funding see financing
funerals 29
Futūḥ al-Ḥaramayn (al-Lārī) 57–58
al-Futūḥāt al-Makkiyya (Ibn al-ʿArabī) 92
future pilgrims see aspiring pilgrims
Fuyūḍ al-Ḥaramayn (Walīallāh) 92, 98
Gade, Anna 25
Gafurov, Bobojan 221–222, 233
Ganja 146
Gayangos, Pascual de 84
gender
of hajj guides 364–365, 400
in hajj/ʿumra accounts
in general 28
Dutch pilgrims 14, 271–272, 328, 341–343, 349, 350
Enes (interviewee) 271–272
Nomani, Asra 29
segregation 338, 339, 400
generational differences 307–308, 312–313, 365, 396
geography, in hajj/ʿumra accounts 54–55
George, Kenneth 115
Germanus, Gyula 66–67
Gershon, Ilana 398
Ghajduwānī, Maḥmūd 101
Ghannam, Farha 344
Ghasūlī, Abū Yūsuf 98n12
al-Ghazālī, Abū Ḥāmid 98n12, 134, 282n4, 333
ghāzīs (warriors) 94
al-Ghūrī mosque (Egypt) 77
globalization
and hajj/ʿumra 2, 59, 67, 149, 183
and national identity 300–301
and religious spheres 301, 302
God
99 attributes of 332–333
asking forgiveness from 6n12, 19, 103, 123, 125, 308
called by 270, 285
and hajj/ʿumra
as direct sign from 270
as invitation from 120, 384
in hajj/ʿumra accounts
connection to 261–262
as loving entity 262, 269
González Palencia, Ángel 78
good manners (ādāb) 54, 129
Goodley, Dan 266n20
Grand Mosque (Mecca) 287
see also Kaʿba
Grand Mosque (Medina) see Prophet’s Mosque
grand schemes 10, 32, 327, 347, 348–349, 350, 396, 410
see also moral registers; under specific grand schemes
gratefulness/thankfulness (şükür/shukr)
in general 134, 348
in Evliyā Çelebī’s account 123, 127
in Nābī’s account 120, 126
and ṣabr 333
graves see shrines/tombs/graves
Green, Nile 149, 185, 198
grooming conventions 381
group dynamics 331, 400
Ḥabīb, Ibrāhīm Muḥammad 184, 196
hadith
on Amīr 324
on ʿArafa 124
‘The believer’s heart is the throne of the Compassionate’ 93
on God sending blessing on the Kaʿba 282
on not refusing any invitation 102
on travellers of God 94
Hājar (biblical Hagar) 49
al-Ḥajar al-Aswad see Black Stone
‘Al Hajj’ (smartphone app) 395
hajj applications, for smartphones 377, 394–395, 394
hajj blogs/vlogs 18, 314, 372, 374, 377
Hajj Council of North America (hcna) 357–359, 365–366
ḥajj al-ghayba (‘hidden’ pilgrimage) 93, 95
‘Hajj Guide’ (smartphone apps) 394–395
hajj guides (persons)
in hajj/ʿumra accounts 123–124, 132, 210
religious scholars as 304–305, 320, 364–365, 427
Saudi trained 192
hajj guides (printed)
in general 192
of Egyptian/Saudi governments 65
hajj/ʿumra accounts as
in general 115–116, 199
Evliyā Çelebī’s account 131–132
Nābī’s account 133
in Turkish 113, 124
on use of in-person guides 124
ḥajj al-ḥuḍūr (‘visible’ pilgrimage) 93, 95
‘Hajj Salam’ (smartphone app) 395
‘hajj showers’ 404
hajj travel agents 342, 344
see also Celebrity Hajj; Hajj Council of North America
hajj travelogues see hajj/ʿumra accounts
hajj visas 28n38, 318
hajj/ʿumra
in general 6, 422
accounts of see hajj/ʿumra accounts
after completion see post-hajj phase
as conclusion to life’s trajectory (once in a life time) 9, 22n23, 267–268, 303, 307, 403
discomforts during 288, 337, 339, 343, 348
and everyday life see under everyday life
expectations of 13, 134, 199, 329, 370
financing of 4, 8, 313–316, 359
and globalization see under globalization
as God’s invitation 120, 384
growth of 8, 60
and ḥikma 49
historical dimensions of 47, 49
illegality of 83–86
inequitability of 364
itineraries see itineraries
and journey to heaven 94
legal underpinnings of 47–48
as living tradition 31
of Moriscos see under Moriscos
in Morocco see Morocco
motivation for see motivation
of Mudejars 76–78, 82–83, 86–88
see also ‘Coplas del peregrino de Puey Monçón’
as once in a lifetime event see as conclusion of life’s trajectory (above)
as physical journey 216
preparations for 383, 385, 401–402
as religious obligation 2–3, 46–47, 263, 303, 311, 318, 404, 405
as repetitive event 98n12, 267, 299, 363, 403
rites of see under rituals
ṣabr (patience) in see under ṣabr
safety/unsafety during see safety/unsafety
as sensational form 21, 32, 115, 278, 279, 397
spiritual vs. material aspects of 92–93
status change after see Ḥājjis/Ḥājjas
in Sufism see Sufism
supervising of see supervising of hajj/ʿumra
touristic elements of 409
types of 47–48
of Wahhābism see Wahhābism/Wahhābīs
by women see female pilgrims
hajj/ʿumra accounts
in general 1, 51–53, 56–57, 204, 422
and adab 54
audiences of see audiences
from different traditions 25–26, 57–59
digital technology see digital technology
from Egypt 66
European culture in 151–152
European/Europeanized women in 150–151
as hajj guides see hajj guides (printed)
illustration in 65–66
inserted references in 51–52, 53–54
and interactions see interactions
from Iran see Iran
in journal form 53
language use in 5
modern corpus of 64–66
and modernity 60–61, 226
narrators of 15–16
negative experiences in see negative experiences
from Netherlands see Netherlands
overlap between pre-modern and modern 45
and photography see photographs
poetry in 54
see also ‘Coplas del peregrino de Puey Monçón’
political issues/political activism in 18, 54–55, 61–62, 64
and printing technologies 65, 183
religious framework in 16–17, 50–51, 61, 64
from Russia 229
ṣabr (patience) in see under ṣabr
from Soviet Union see Soviet Union
from Spain see Spain
standardization of 330, 345, 426
travel/travelling in see travel/travelling
by women see under female pilgrims
written vs oral transmission 45
hajj/ʿumra experiences
in general 26–27
class-specific 27
emotions in see emotions
empowering effect of 271
everyday life and see everyday life
and gender see gender
idealization of 16–17, 57, 87, 204–205, 288, 330
ineffability of 277–278, 295
modernization of 2
moral lessons taken from 10–11, 32–33, 263, 265, 272, 350
pre-determined by expectations 186, 293, 294–295
reliving/reconnecting 373–374, 378–379, 391
as sensational see sensational forms
sensory see sensory experiences
sharing via social media 374, 376, 377–378, 383–384, 412–413, 416, 423
sight in 280–284, 399
see also first sightings
smell in 287–288
sound in 284–286
taste in 291–293
telling/retelling of 16, 247–248, 328, 344–348
touch in see touching/rubbing
vocal practices in 284–286
hajj/ʿumra pilgrims
aspiring/prospective see aspiring pilgrims
from Australia 344, 396
baraka of returning 290–291
bodies of, as informational 380–381
bodily sensations of 3, 279, 281
called by God 270
control of 28n38, 60
dangers faced by see safety/unsafety
different groups of 94–95
from Egypt see under specific Egyptian pilgrims
experiences of see hajj/ʿumra experiences
female see female pilgrims
from France see French pilgrims
honorific titles see Ḥājjis/Ḥājjas
image of ideal 410
from Indonesia 28n38
and information practices see information
male see male pilgrims
from Morocco see Moroccan pilgrims
motivation of see motivation
from Ottoman Empire see Ottoman Turkish pilgrims
from Pakistan see Pakistani Muslims/pilgrims
personal transformation 14, 269–270, 328, 378
portrayal of, in Dar on dunye (Muhammadiev) 231–232
quarantining see quarantine
religious capital of 16, 306, 382, 386
after return see post-hajj phase
self-presentation of 18, 219, 248
and social media see social media
socio-demographic changes among 371
from Turkey 344–345
from UK see British-Pakistani pilgrims
see also Shiʿi pilgrims; Sufi pilgrims
Ḥājjis/Ḥājjas
in general 9, 94, 267, 311
and baraka 178
of black servants 172
in hajj/ʿumra accounts 178–179
as knowledge-brokers 383
as religious capital 386
responsibilities of 16, 380–382
in Soviet Union 221, 236
see also ‘serial ḥājjīs’
Ḥakīm Ātā 102
al-Ḥallāj, Manṣūr 98n12
Ḥamadsha cult 414–415
Hamdy, Sherine 333–334
Hammoudi, Abdellah 2, 26
Ḥamza (uncle of Prophet) 63, 63, 106, 213, 305
Hanaway, William 147–148, 150, 161–162
hand of Fāṭima (khamsa) 303
happiness (sürūr)
during hajj/ʿumra and ziyāra
in general 134
in Evliyā Çelebī’s account 126
in Nābī’s account 120, 121, 124, 126, 129
Haq, Farooq 344, 396
Ḥaramayn 118, 119
see also Mecca; Medina
ḥarīra 212
Harvey, Leonard 83, 84n14
Havre de Savoir 319
Haykal, Muḥammad Ḥusayn 66
helalleşmek parties 253, 267
Hidāyat al-sabīl wa-kifāyat al-dalīl (Farhād Mirzā) see Farhād Mirzā Moʿtamad al-Dowle
hijabs, wearing of 381, 385
Hijaz region, travel within 186
see also Saudi pilgrimage governance
Hijra 318
ḥikma (specific wisdom) 49, 50, 68
Ḥirāʾ cave 194, 211, 213
holy sites, images of 22–23, 65–66, 116, 283
homeland
ambiguity of notion of 171
compared to foreign lands 226
dreaming of 228
Mecca as spiritual 12, 30
see also bled; migratory memories
homesickness 228, 262
see also longing
homosexuality 359
honeymoons 347
honorific titles see Ḥājjis/Ḥājjas
Horpushtak (‘Hedgehog’) (journal) 224, 231
Horst, Heather 397
Ḥosām al-Salṭane 147n13
ḥujra (Prophet’s burial chamber) 121, 131
al-Hujwīrī 92–93
humility (khuḍūʿ/khushūʿ) 106
Ḥusayn ibn ʿAlī al-Hāshimī, King of Hijaz and Sharif of Mecca 192, 207
Ḥusayniyya ṭarīqa 92, 101, 103–104
Hüseyin Paşa 123, 131
ḥużūr (tranquillity) 126, 135
hygiene 27, 167, 189, 205, 226, 235, 287, 288
ʿibādāt (religious obligations) 2–3, 46–47, 263, 405, 409
see also religious obligations
ʿIbāḍīs 56
Ibn Abī al-Dunyā 88
Ibn al-ʿArabī 92, 93
Ibn ʿĀshir 211
Ibn Baṭṭūṭa 52, 53
Ibn Fatḥ Ibn Abī al-Rabīʿ, Ahmad 82
Ibn Jubayr 52, 53
Ibn Kathīr 285n6
Ibn al-Ṣabāḥ 52, 53
Ibn Saʿūd see ʿAbd al-ʿAzīz ibn al-Saʿūd, King of Saudi Arabia
Ibn Taymiyya 50, 63
Ibrāhīm (biblical Abraham) 119, 232–233, 237, 285
Ibrāhīm Rifʿāt Pasha 190n7
idealization see negative experiences
idealization, of hajj/ʿumra experiences 16–17, 57, 87, 204–205, 288, 330
iḥrām (state of consecration)
in general 6n12, 48, 128, 130
in hajj/ʿumra accounts 171, 210, 229, 261
Sufi thought on 95
and ziyāra to Prophet’s tomb 128
iḥrām clothes
in general 28
compared to shrouds 49, 126
donning of 106, 126, 134, 210, 229, 233
of female pilgrims 28
Iḥyāʾ ʿulūm al-dīn (al-Ghazālī) 134, 333
ijāzas (diplomas) 55, 56, 106, 107, 108
al-Iʿlām bi-aʿlām balad Allāh al-ḥarām (al-Nahrawālī) 118
illegimate innovations (bidʿa) 64, 192, 354
illnesses 213, 217
see also cholera; plague; seasickness
images, of holy sites 22–23, 65–66, 116, 283
incense (bukhūr) 287, 288
India 99n15
individualism
in general 347, 427–428
in hajj/ʿumra accounts, of Dutch pilgrims 14, 328, 343, 347–348, 349, 350, 396
religious 302, 306, 320
Indonesian pilgrims 28n38
information
gathering 371–372, 394
sharing of
as community-maintenance rituals 16, 380–382
as form of capital building 383–386
in meaning-making process 373–379
inşā (prose style) 114
Instagram 423
Institut Européen des Sciences Humaines (iesh) 319
intention (niyya) 48, 106, 185n2, 210, 324, 409
interactions
between pilgrims
connectedness 380
older women 348
scholars/literati 55–56
smartphone use 397
Sufi and non-Sufi 96
writers 64–65
Iran
black people in 173
gender segregation in 161
hajj/ʿumra accounts from 156, 158
see also under female pilgrims; under specific pilgrims and accounts
Islam in 168
travelogues from
in general 138, 161
as compilation of texts 148
educational purpose of 148, 162
elements of 147–148
women in 175–176
see also Persian tradition
ʿIsāwa cult 414–415
Ishaev, Shakirzian 227
Islam
body of the believer in 88
in Iran 168
knowledge of 282–283, 304–306
and modern travel 187
obligations in see religious obligations
in Soviet Union 221, 237
in Spain 74–75, 83
study of, in France 301
and tourism 317–318
virtues in 333
see also ṣabr
weeping in 25
see also weeping
Islam and the devotional object (McGregor) 116
Islamic antiquities 63–64, 192–193, 195, 208, 210
Islamic art 374–375
itineraries
of ʿĀliye Khānom 165
of anonymous women from Tabas 165
of ʿEṣmat al-Salṭane 165
of Farhād Mirzā 144
of Vaqār al-Dowle 166
of Yaʿqub Mirzā 139
ziyāras as part of 98–99, 105–106, 107, 209, 211, 213
Jabala, Ahmad 319
Jackson, John 344, 396
Jādat al-ʿāshiqīn (Kamāl al-Dīn Ḥusayn) 91–92, 101–105
Jaʿfar Khān Mirzā 140
Jaʿfariyān, Raṣul 162, 165
al-Jāhiz 280
Jāmī, ʿAbd al-Raḥmān 92, 98n12, 100–101
janāza (funeral) prayer 285–286
Janmohamed, Zahir 19, 27, 354–367, 368, 427
al-Jazūlī, Muḥammad 51, 107–108, 116n5
Jedda airport 19, 354–355
Jerusalem 26n34, 27n35
Jibrīl 232–233
al-Jīlānī, ʿAbd al-Qādir 93
journalists 64–65
see also Muhammadiev, Fazliddin
journalling 374
Kaʿba
angels circling above 262
and birds 13–14, 232
fascination with 23–24
in hajj/ʿumra accounts
of al-ʿAmrānī 199
of al-Batanūnī 198–199
circumambulation of see ṭawāf
falling in love with 254–255
kiswa cloths see kiswa cloths
seeing
for the first time see first sightings
and God’s reciprocal gaze 282
keeping it in sight 124
preclusion from 283
weeping on see weeping
touching of 256, 289
of al-Zabādī 108
images of
daily life 22–23
prayer books 116
souvenirs 283, 284
tiles 116, 117
religious importance of
in general 283–284
prior knowledge of 282–283
as totemic object 282
Kadrouch-Outmany, Khadija 12, 14, 15, 28, 247, 323–350, 424–425
Kaell, Hillary 337n17
Kafshgar Sichāni, Ḥājiyeh Hamdam 164
karāmāt (miracles, favours from God) 197, 286
Karbala, Battle of 154
Kashf al-maḥjūb (al-Hujwīrī) 92–93
Kateman, Ammeke 11, 25, 27, 183–200, 424
al-Kattānī, Muḥammad ibn ʿAbd al-Kabīr 184
al-Kattānī, Muḥammad ibn Jaʿfar 184, 187, 188–189, 191, 197
al-Kattānī, Muḥammad al-Zamzamī 184, 187, 194, 197
Kenna, Margaret 287
Khadīja (wife of Prophet) 81, 194
Khalwatiyya order 107
khamsa (hand of Fāṭima) 303
Khān, ʿAbbāsqoli 165
Khan, Esam Ali 394
Khān Ẓohir al-Dowle, Ebrāhim 165
khānqāhs (Sufi lodges) 99–100, 102–104, 208–209
Khāqāni Shervāni 138n1, 145
Kharrāz, Abū Sa ʿīd 98n12
khawāṣṣ (elite) 95
Khedr, Tarek 76, 77
khidma (service) 100–101
Khismatullin, Zulfar 224
Khoja Shiʿi Ithna Asheri Muslims 355, 356, 357–358, 359, 365
khuḍūʿ/khushūʿ (humility) 106
Khwājagān order 103
Khwarazmī, Kamāl al-Dīn Ḥusayn 91–92, 101–105
Khwarazmī, Sharīf al-Dīn Ḥusayn 101–102
kissing, of Black Stone 49, 106, 211, 255–256
kiswa cloths 22n24, 81, 82, 287
Kitāb al-mawt (Ibn Abī al-Dunyā) 88
Klimovich, Lucian 233
Knudsen, Britta 24
Kubrāwiyya order 92
Lājawardī, Mīr 103
Lange, Christian 3, 280
language usage 5, 230–231
al-Lārī, Muḥy al-Dīn 57–58, 65
Last Judgement 49
Lawrence, Bruce 383
Leeuwen, Richard van 11, 13, 16–17, 26, 27, 45–68, 91–110, 204–219, 426
legal traditions, and hajj/ʿumra 47–48
lgbtq community 359
life-lines, in interviews 247, 249, 250, 258, 260
‘limit-form’ of mobility 9, 428n6
loneliness see belonging/not-belonging
longing (‘shawq’)
for hajj/ʿumra
in general 47, 49–50, 194, 295, 424
Asmae’s account 262
aspiring pilgrims 119–121
al-Rāʿī’s account 194, 200
in hajj/ʿumra accounts
in general 200
al-Batanūnī 194–195
to recreate hajj state 373–374
López-Baralt, Luce 75
lottery system, hajj visas 318
Lücking, Mirjam 28n38
al-Lumaʿ fī al-taṣawwuf (al-Sarrāj) 97
Macdonald, Duncan Black 191n9
madrasas (religious schools) 99–100, 210
al-Maghribī, Abū ʿUthmān 98n12
Mahmood, Saba 333, 348
mahr (dower) 315–317
maḥrams (male guardians)
in general 4, 246n5
in Asmae’s account 260, 261
cancelling of, for the ʿumra 311–312
husbands as 311
Majidov, Qurbon (fictional character) 225–226, 231, 232, 236
majlises (gatherings) 100, 104
Majmunah 193
Makkah Clock Tower, hotel in 339, 340, 341, 342
Makkah Live (tv-channel) 23
male pilgrims
assertiveness of 344
companions for 4
as guardians see maḥrams
iḥrām clothes of see iḥrām clothes
see also hajj/ʿumra pilgrims; under specific pilgrims
Mālik ibn Anas 213
Malkom Khān 152
Manāsik al-ḥajj (Riḍā) 65
manāsik al-ḥajj (rules for hajj rituals) 162, 209, 211
see also rituals
Mancebo de Arévalo 84, 86
Manṣur see Yaʿqub Mirzā-ye Tabrizi
Marjani, Shihab al-Din 229, 230
marriages
effect of hajj/ʿumra on 309–310, 347
ethnically mixed marriages 310–311
or hajj/ʿumra 307
al-Marwa 6n12, 28, 95, 294
materiality
of hajj/ʿumra see food
of mediating devices 397–398, 417
Mathnawī (Jalāl al-Dīn Rūmī) 92
matrimonial websites 306
Maury, Charlotte 120
mausoleums see shrines/tombs/graves
McAdams, Dan 248–249
McGregor, Richard 22n24, 116
McLoughlin, Seán 23, 405
meaning-making process, post-hajj phase 373–379
Mecca
bodily orientation to 21–22
building of khānqāh in 104
cholera epidemics in 60
and Disneyland 1, 4, 5
entering 122, 153, 280–281
images of 22–23
leaving 124
legendary history of 49
in Ottoman Turkish literature 118
as place of attachment 30–31
as place of intergenerational encounters 318
presence in everyday life 22–23, 283
ramaḍān in 292, 293
and returning to the bled 318
staying in, for longer period 98n12
in twentieth century 227–228
Westernization 382, 384
Westernization of 363–364, 384–385
see also first sightings; Ḥaramayn; Kaʿba
Medina 214
Enes’ account 253
entering 127, 129, 152
leaving 25n33, 130
Shiʿis in 174–175
see also Ḥaramayn; Prophet’s Mosque; Prophet’s tomb
Meḥmed iv, Ottoman Sultan 114
memories of the hajj/ʿumra
actively curating of 16
and photography 413, 417, 423
as poem 17
see also ‘Coplas del peregrino de Puey Monçón’
reliving/reconnecting to 373–374, 378–379, 391
and smell 288
see also information
Merchant, Stephanie 379
Metcalf, Barbara 185
Meyer, Birgit 5, 20–21, 186, 278, 279
al-Miḍārī, Sīdī al-Ḥājj Muḥammad
biographic information 206
hajj/ʿumra account of
in general 217–218
car travel to Medina in 212–213
donning of iḥrām clothes in 210
food concerns in 214–216
hajj guide in 210
hardships at ʿArafa and Minā 211
home coming in 217
Meccan episode in 211
Medinan episode in 213
personal perspective in 218
readership of 219
reference to other works in 211
regional tours before hajj in 208–210, 218
return journey in 217
role assignment in 209
Sufi religious component in 210–211
on Wahhābī reforms 211
travelling companions of 208
Middle East
European control of 11, 59–61, 206
see also specific countries
Miftāḥ al-ṭālibīn (Ghajduwānī) 101
migratory memories 319–320
Miller, Daniel 396, 397
Miller, Kathryn 86
Milli Görüş (Turkish state mosque organization) 252, 315
Milligan, Christine 280
Minā
in hajj/ʿumra accounts
of Asmae (interviewee) 264
Evliyā Çelebī 125
gender-segregation 338, 339, 400
al-Miḍārī 211–212
tent camp at 338
in general 17
and ṣabr 338–339, 345–346, 347
socializing of older women at 348
unhygienic conditions 235, 287
rainfall in 126
sacrality of 127
Shiʿi mourning rituals at 154
miracles (karāmāt) 197, 286
Mirzā, Abdolvāheb 178
Mirzā, Farhād 18, 27
Mirzā, Moḥammad Ṭāher 139
Mirzā, Yaʿqub 18
Mirzā ʿAbd al-Ghaffār Najm al-Molk 157
Mirzā ʿAbd al-Ḥoseyn Khān Afshār Orumi 157
Mirzā Khalil 164
Mirzai, Behnaz A. 172
Missing Persians: Discovering Voices in Iranian Cultural History (Rahimieh) 163
Moʾayyad al-Dowle, Ṭahmāsp Mirzā 139
mobile phones see smartphone use
mobility
‘flow-form’ 9, 428n6
increase in 8–9, 402–403
‘limit-form’ 9, 428n6
see also transportation
‘Modern Articulations of the Pilgrimage to Mecca’ (research project) 5–6, 11–13, 31, 246–247, 392
modernity 60–61, 226
modesty 334, 381, 385
Mohammed Escribano family 86
monitoring of hajj/ʿumra see supervising of hajj/ʿumra
Montaner Frutos, Alberto 77
moral lessons 10–11, 32–33, 263, 265, 272, 350
moral registers
in general 10–11, 327
Islamic 346, 348
mixing and merging of 32–33, 325, 327–328, 330–331, 342–343, 347, 349, 411
Morgan, David 20
Moriscos
in general 75, 76–77
and Aljamiado manuscripts 78–79
and the hajj
performing of 85–86, 88
preparations for 84
prohibition of 77, 83–84
supporting someone else’s 86
loss of knowledge of Arabic 87
see also Aljamiado manuscripts; ‘Coplas del peregrino de Puey Monçón’
Moroccan pilgrims
autonomy/self-reliance 396
hajj/ʿumra accounts of see under specific Moroccan pilgrims
Morocco
colonial rule in 206
gender roles 259
hajj blogs 18
hajj/ʿumra in
exemption from obligation of 187
regional tours before 209–210
socio-cultural embeddedness of 11–12, 105, 277–278
Muslims in, and ṣabr 334
smartphone use in 392–393
Sufism in 105
Moshir al-Dowle Sepahsālār 144, 152
Moʿtaṣem al-Molk 166, 175
motivation
in general 327, 372
of Christian pilgrims 273n24
of Dutch pilgrims
in general 246, 249, 350
Asmae (interviewee) 260–261, 262
Enes (interviewee) 251
of French pilgrims
in general 300, 301, 303–304
converts 311
knowledge of Islam 304–306
young couples 308–312
Mounir, Ismael 306, 313, 316
al-Mubashir (tv channel) 378–379
Mudejars 74, 76–78, 82–83, 86–88
see also ‘Coplas del peregrino de Puey Monçón’
Muhammad, Marwan 304
Muhammad, Prophet
in Dar on dunye (Muhammadiev) 232–233, 237
hajj and 46–47
Hijra of 318
as sultanic/kingly figure 130–131, 132
tomb of see Prophet’s tomb
Muḥammad b. al-Faẓl al-Balkhī 100
Muhammadiev, Fazliddin
in general 427
career of 223–224
death of 236
editing of Russian manuscript by 233
hajj companions of 224
novelised hajj account by see Dar on dunye
religious ideas of 232
Mukhtaṣar (al-Khalīl) 209
Mūlatānī, Bahāʾ al-Dīn Zakariyā 100
Murad, Abdul Hakim 259
Murād ibn Dervīş 124
Murād iii, Ottoman Sultan 118
Murād iv, Ottoman Sultan 113
al-Murādābādī, Rafīʿ al-Dīn 58
al-Muṣʿabī 205
musāmaḥa rituals 401–402, 403
Muslim Brotherhood 319
Muslim converts 66–67
Muslim Trotter 310, 314, 317
muṭawwifs see hajj guides (persons)
Muṭribī al-Samarqandī 101
Muzayrīb 123
Mystical Dimensions of Islam (Schimmel) 92
Nābī, Yūsuf
biographical information 114
connection with Ibrāhīm 119
hajj/ʿumra account of
in general 58, 114
ʿArafa 121
compared to Fevrī’s 118–119
emotions in
in general 115, 134
benefits of ʿArafa 125–126
entering Mecca 122
entering Medina 127, 129
entering the ḥujra 131
first sight of Kaʿba 123
forgetting everyday life 19, 123
seeing dome of Prophet’s tomb 127
sorrow of departure 124, 130
ziyāra to Prophet’s tomb 129–130
face rubbing in 122
as hajj guide 133
leaving calligraphy at Prophet’s grave 130–131
longing of other pilgrims 119–120
negative aspects of hajj 133
popularity of 114
Nabil Ennasri 318
al-Nābulusī, ʿAbd al-Ghanī 53, 54, 58
Nāder Shāh, Shah of Iran 165
al-Nadwī 65
Nafaḥāt al-uns (Jāmī) 92, 98n12
Naḥīfī 120
al-Nahrawālī, Quṭb al-Dīn 118
narrative, definition of 424
narrative identity construction 248
Narváez, María Teresa 84
Nāṣer al-Din Shāh, Shah of Iran 143, 161, 165
daughter of see Tāj al-Salṭane
Nāṣer-e Khosrow 57, 138n1
Nāṣirī order 106
Naṣr, Shaykh Aḥmad 98n12
nawāfil (supererogatory prayers) 305
al-Nawawī 211
Nāẓemi, Nāzilā 162
negative experiences
in hajj/ʿumra accounts
in general 204–205
Evliyā Çelebī 133
al-Kattānī 188–189, 191
Nābī 133
in poetic accounts 205
reasons for relating of 205–206
see also idealization; ṣabr
Netherlands
Muslims in, consumerist lifestyle of 327–328
smartphone use in 393
see also Dutch pilgrims
networks
hajj/ʿumra and
Sufi 91, 97–98, 104, 105, 108, 109–110
transnational scholarly 11, 56, 59, 64–65
Neyshabouri, Safaneh Mohaghegh 179
Nikolsky, Mikhail 227
niyya (intention) 48, 106, 185n2, 210, 324, 409
Nomani, Asra 2, 29
Nurgat, Yahya 13, 19, 27, 113–135, 424
Nusayba (female warrior) 305
Nuzayta Calderán 84
oaths, brotherhood 154
obligation (farḍ) 2–3, 46–47, 303
Orientalism 226–227
Other/othering 163, 179
Ottoman Empire 59, 118, 155–156
Ottoman Turkish language 58, 113, 114
Ottoman Turkish pilgrims
hajj/ʿumra accounts of
Evliyā Çelebī see Evliyā Çelebī
Fevrī 118–119
Nābī see Nābī, Yūsuf
painting 374
Pakistani Muslims/pilgrims 260, 334, 344, 346, 396, 405, 409n21
Pano y Ruata, Mariano de 77
PartirenOmra 314
passivity 325, 333, 425
patience see ṣabr
Paṭōn, Omar 82, 87
peer pressure 343
pelting ritual (ramy) 48, 264, 338, 339
Peregrinación del Mancebo de Arévalo 84
Persian language 227
Persian tradition 54, 57–58, 67
see also Iran
personal transformation, hajj/ʿumra’s role in 14, 269–270, 328, 378
photographs
in general 65–66, 374, 407–408
Alkhattab on 410–411
and co-presence 413–415, 414
inserted into hajj/ʿumra accounts 65–66
negative stances on 408–409
positive stances 408
reviving memories 413, 417, 423
selfie-taking 18–19, 356, 375, 376, 377, 408, 411–412, 413, 417
sharing of 412–413, 416, 423
see also images, of holy sites
Pilgrim of Puey Monçón 74, 78
see also ‘Coplas del peregrino de Puey Monçón’
pilgrimages see hajj/ʿumra
pilgrim’s guide see hajj guides (persons)
Pirosmani, Niko 226
Pitts, Joseph 116, 118
place of origin (bled) 303, 318, 320
plague (disease) 82, 87
poetry 54
see also ‘Coplas del peregrino de Puey Monçón’
Politics of Piety (Mahmood) 333
polytheism (shirk) 63–64, 192
postcards 66
post-colonialism 225, 237
post-hajj phase
in general 372–373, 386–387
capital building in 282–386
community-maintenance rituals in 380–382
meaning-making process in 373–379
Postill, John 391
prayer beads, string of (tasbīḥ) 397–399
preparations, for hajj/ʿumra 383, 385, 401–402
see also farewell parties; musāmaḥa rituals; ṣadaqa meals
primus stoves 215
printing technologies 61, 65, 183
privacy 341–342, 346
Prophet’s Mosque
Bāb al-Salām in 121, 123, 129
entering of 129
in hajj/ʿumra accounts 81, 211
images of 254
in daily life 22–23
in prayer books 116
as souvenirs 283
tiles 116, 117
Prophet’s tomb in see Prophet’s tomb
rawḍa in see rawḍa
Prophet’s tomb
entering the ḥujra 131
first sighting of 127–128, 152
images of 116
leaving hand-written plaques at 130
restrictive measure for women at 289
and Wahhābī reforms 213
ziyāra to
in general 48, 50
Evliyā Çelebī 128–131
Farhād Mirzā 152–153
and iḥrām 128
Nābī 129–131
Pilgrim of Puey Monçón 81
see also rawḍa
prospective pilgrims see aspiring pilgrims
Puey Monçón (Pueyo de Santa Cruz) 78, 86
Puteshestviia. Priklucheniia. Fantastika (‘Travels. Adventures. Science Fiction’) 225
qafṭāns (Moroccan dresses) 277
Qajar dynasty 138, 156–157, 161
quarantine
in general 60, 183, 188, 198
in hajj/ʿumra accounts
disparities in 191–192
facilities in al-Ṭūr in 188–191
others facilities mentioned in 188n5
unlawfulness of 188–189
Qurʾan app 377
Qurʾan verses
5:83 25
22:27 285n6
24:35 128
25:75 333
28:54 333
33:113 333
38:16 333
46:34 333
reading translations of 398
Qurbon Majidov (fictional character) 225–226, 231, 232, 236, 332–333
Qureshi, Kaveri 334–335
al-Qushayrī, ʿAbd al-Karīm 96
Rabadán, Muḥammad 78
Rabghūzī, Naṣr al-Dīn 232–233
rahba see awe
Rahimieh, Nasrin 163
al-Rāʿī, Muṣṭafā Muḥammad
hajj/ʿumra account of
in general 184
bragging about transportation in 187
longing in 194, 200
quarantine facilities in al-Ṭūr in 190–191
Wahhābī reforms in 193–196
railroads 8, 59, 138, 144, 152, 183, 207
see also train voyages
rain 126
ramaḍān, in Mecca 292, 293
ramy (pelting ritual) 48, 264, 338, 339
rawḍa (in Prophet’s Mosque)
importance 289
restrictive measure for women 29, 289–290, 341
weeping on visit 294
al-Zabādī praying 106
readership see audiences
Reckwitz, Andreas 372
religion/religiosity
in hajj/ʿumra accounts 16–17, 46–51
individualisation of 302, 320
and information practices 378
of young French Muslims 303, 320
religious capital 16, 306, 382–383, 385, 386
religious merit (thawāb) 177, 230
religious obligations 2–3, 46–47, 263, 303, 311, 318, 404, 405
religious scholars
as hajj guides 304–305, 320, 364–365
as marriage brokers and advisers 306–307
religious schools (madrasas) 99–100, 210
reliving/reconnecting, hajj/ʿumra experiences 373–374, 378–379, 391
research
design of interviews 247, 266
life-lines in interviews 247, 249, 250, 258, 260
methods 328, 355–358, 370–371, 392–393
‘Modern Articulations of the Pilgrimage to Mecca’ 5–6, 11–13, 31, 246–247, 392
restrictive measure, for women 29, 289–290, 341
retiring backwards 124, 130, 135
Reuters Concession (1872) 144, 152
Reynold, Dwight 185–186
Riḍā, Muḥy al-Dīn 184, 196
Riḍā, Rashīd 65
Rifāʿiyya order 107
riḥla see travelogues/travel literature
al-Riḥla al-Ḥjāziyya (al-Sanūsī) 62
al-Risāla al-Qushayriyya (al-Qushayrī) 96
Risālei Mekkiye (Fevrī) 118–119
rituals
of hajj/ʿumra
Dar on dunye (Muhammadiev) 229, 233, 235, 236
Evliyā Çelebī’s account 123–124
Farhād Mirzā’s account 145, 153–154
Ibn Taymiyya 50
overview 6n12, 47–48
in-person guides 123–124
Russian hajj/ʿumra accounts 229
Yaʿqub Mirzā’s account 153–154
performed at ʿArafa 120–121
see also manāsik al-ḥajj
robbery/thievery 155–156, 169, 173n5, 206
see also safety/unsafety
role models
in Islamic history 3, 208, 305
in life stories 248, 253, 268, 270
romantic love 347
Rosenwein, Barbara 115, 186
rosewater 287
Royal Air Maroc 21n21
Roza Candás, Pablo 78, 86
rubbing see face rubbing; touching/rubbing
Ruhā (Şanlıurfa) 114, 119
Rūmī, Jalāl al-Dīn 92, 93, 101
Rūmī/Mevlevi order 115
Russia 229
see also Soviet Union
al-Șabūr 332–333
ṣabr (patience)
active cultivation of 333–334
ambivalence surrounding 325–326, 345, 425
genderedness of 334–335, 343, 347–348
in hajj/ʿumra accounts
in general 288, 344–345
Dutch pilgrims
in general 348–349
ambivalence surrounding 345
and being spoiled 346
fortifying capacity for 345–346
individualism 347–348
al-Rāʿī 190, 200
al-Zabādī 105
during hajj/ʿumra of Dutch pilgrims
in general 324–325, 334
ambivalence surrounding 325–326
appropriateness of exercising
in general 326, 335–336, 348–349
accommodation 338–339, 341
food 337–338
gender and age 343–344, 346
gender discrimination 341–342
lack of privacy 342
mundane and religious dimensions 342–343, 349–350
transportation 336–337
as highly valued virtue 325, 332–333
as moral practice 326–327
and shukr 333
in social relations 335
and tawakkul 333–334
Ṣabrī, ʿAbd al-ʿAzīz 184, 197
ṣadaqa meals 403
sadness see sorrow
al-Ṣafā 6n12, 28, 95, 229, 294
Safar, Jihan 30, 299–321, 347, 425
safarnāme see travelogues/travel literature
Safarnāme (Nāṣer-e Khosrow) 138n1
Safavid dynasty 164, 168
safety/unsafety 55–56, 87, 171, 197, 362, 364
see also robbery/thievery
Saghaee, Neda 17, 26, 91–110, 426
Sakine Soltān Vaqār al-Dowle Esfahāni Kuchak 165
al-Salṭane, Ḥeshmat 178
Salvador, Emilia 78
Sami (tour guide) 318
Sánchez Cantón, Francisco Javier 77
Şanlıurfa (Ruhā) 114, 119
al-Sarrāj, Abū Naṣr 97
Saʿūd family 59, 62–64
Saudi Arabia 11, 62–64
see also Saudi pilgrimage governance
Saudi pilgrimage governance
in general 183, 184, 198
ban on photography 407–408
covid-19 pandemic 369
and male guardians 4, 246n5, 311–312
permits 28n38
quota system 246, 318
relaxing of rules 311–312, 367
and Shiʿi pilgrims 357, 360–362
and Wahhābī reforms 63, 192–197, 208
saʿy ritual
in general 48, 229
association with Hājar 49
male vs. female pilgrims 28–29
and in-person guides 123–124
Sayf al-Dīn Bākharzī 102
Sayyid Ātā 102
Sayyida Nafīsa 107
Schatzki, Theodore 372
Schielke, Samuli 10–11, 327, 334, 344, 349
scholars/literati 55–56
sea voyages
in hajj/ʿumra accounts
in general 187
ʿĀliye Khānom 166
compatibility with Islam 187
al-Miḍārī 210, 217
Puey Monçón 79–80, 87
Yaʿqub Mirzā 150
seasickness 150, 166, 210, 215, 217
segregation, of gender 338, 339, 400
self-enhancement see personal transformation
selfies 18–19, 356, 375, 376, 377, 408, 411–412, 413, 417
self-reliance see agency
sensational forms
hajj/ʿumra as 21, 32, 115, 278, 279, 397
see also sensory experiences
senses, in anthropology 278–279
sensory experiences
in general 293
of pilgrims
in general 3, 5, 278, 295–296
expectations 280, 293, 294–295
and ineffability 295
beyond the natural 286
sight 280–284, 399
smell 287–288
sound 284–286, 399
taste 291–293
touch 289–291, 399
‘serial ḥājjīs’ 98n12, 267, 299, 363, 403
Seurat, Leila 14, 30, 299–321, 347, 425
Seyāḥatnāme (Evliyā Çelebī) 114
al-Shādhilī, Aḥmad ʿAlī 184, 197
Shādhilī order 106
al-Shāfiʿī 107
Shahrbānu Beygom 164
Shambour, Mohd Khaled Yousef 394
Sharīf of Mecca 81
Sharīfian dynasty 81, 192
Sharīfian pilgrimage governance 197
Sharma, Parvez 354
al-Sharqī, Ibn Ṭayyib 206
shawq’ (longing) see longing
Shaykhīs 147
Sheehi, Stephen 190n7
Shiʿi pilgrims
duʿā of, and Saudi censorship rules 19, 354–355, 356
hajj/ʿumra accounts of
anti-Sunni statements 154, 163–164, 167, 168
female co-travellers glossed over 180
female pilgrims see female pilgrims, from Iran
Sunni-Shiʿi tensions 154–155, 168, 360–362
travel see travel/travelling
see also under specific Shiʿi pilgrims
hajj/ʿumra of
Sunni-Shiʿi tensions 27, 56, 168, 357
technology use 19, 354–355, 357, 359–367
manāsik of 48
visits to Najaf and Karbala 56
Shiʿism/Shiʿis
labeling someone 356
in Medina 174–175
and Safavid dynasty 168
vs. Sunnism 356–357
see also Shiʿi pilgrims
Shirinbaev, Sharif Kaiumovich 234–235, 362
shirk (polytheism) 63–64, 192
shivering see bodily sensations
shrines/tombs/graves
Abū Bakr 81
al-Burnusī 105
Eve 193, 210, 211, 213
Fāṭima 81
Ḥamza 63, 63, 106, 213
Majmunah 193
popularity in India 99n15
Sayyida Nafīsa 107
al-Shāfiʿī 107
as social centres 99
ʿUmar 81
of Yasaw, Ahmet 99n14
ziyāras to see ziyāras
see also Prophet’s tomb
shukr see gratefulness/thankfulness
sight
in hajj/ʿumra experiences 280–284, 399
see also first sightings
Sikandar Begum, Nawab of Bhopal 169
Sinanan, Jolynna 396
sins 10, 49, 126–127, 267, 308, 311, 315, 348
see also wuqūf
siyāh (black) 172
Skype 376
slaves/servants 172–174
Slight, John 185
smartphone use
in general 391–392
and emotional affordance 413
in everyday life 398, 410
by hajj/ʿumra pilgrims
in general 19, 391, 392, 416–417, 423, 427
advantages 395
ambivalence in 397, 408, 411, 417
for communication
with family/friends 19, 400–401, 406–407
and farewell parties 404–405
musāmaḥa rituals 401–402, 403
WhatsApp groups 399–400
disadvantages 396–397
hajj applications 377, 394–395, 394
live-streaming 411
vs. other media 398–399
photographs
in general 407–408
Alkhattab on 410–411
co-presence 413–415, 414
negative stances 408–409
positive stances 408
reviving memories 413, 417, 423
selfie-taking 18–19, 356, 375, 376, 377, 408, 411–412, 413, 417
sharing of 412–413, 416, 423
and spiritual dimension of hajj 396
younger vs. older generation 396
and mediation of baraka 415
in Morocco and Netherlands 392–393
see also digital technology; social media
smell, in hajj/ʿumra experiences 287–288
Smirnov, Iurii 233
Smith, Martyn 330
social centres 99–100
social control 331
social media
hajj of 2020 on 369
and hajj/ʿumra pilgrims
in general 372
live-streaming 411
religiosity 378
selfie-taking 18–19, 365, 375, 376, 377, 408, 411–412, 413, 417
sharing of experiences 374, 376, 377–378, 383–384, 412–413, 416, 423
Mecca on 23
power of 377
and religious spaces 414–415
and religious teachers 304–305
see also smartphone use
Sokolov, Dmitry 227
Solṭān Ḥoseyn, Safavid Shah 164
sorrow 25n33, 124, 130, 135, 334n13
see also weeping
sound, in hajj/ʿumra experiences 284–286
souvenirs/gifts
images of holy sites as 22–23, 283
rubbed against the Kaʿba 256
scents as 288
shopping for 327
see also Zamzam water
Soviet Union of Writers 224
Soviet Union (ussr)
hajj delegations from 224
hajj/ʿumra accounts from
in general 221–222
Muhammadiev, Fazliddin see Muhammadiev, Fazliddin
openness to the world of 224
and Orientalism 226–227
policies towards Islam 221, 237
religion in 222, 237
support for post-colonial states by 225, 237
Spain
hajj/ʿumra accounts from
‘Coplas del peregrino de Puey Monçón’ see ‘Coplas del peregrino de Puey Monçón’
before Morisco Period 82–83
during Morisco Period 83–86
illegality of hajj in 83–86
repression of Islam in 74–75, 83
spirituality, definition of 282n3
standardization, of hajj/ʿumra accounts 330, 345, 426
State Archive of the Russian Federation (garf) 221
state of consecration see iḥrām
Station of the Messenger (Maḳām Ḥażret-i Resūl) 121
steamships 8, 59, 138, 183
see also sea voyages
Strany i narody Vostoka’ (Countries and Peoples of the East) 225
Stratkötter, Rita 190n7
subaltern groups 266n20
Suez Canal 207
Sufi lodges 99–100, 102–104, 208–209
Sufi networks 91, 97–98, 104, 105, 108, 109–110, 209–210
Sufi pilgrims
hajj/ʿumra accounts of
in general 91–92, 426
ecstasy 17, 99, 104, 107, 108
khānqāhs and madrasas 104, 208–210, 218
Mecca 106
travel element 96, 102–104, 105–106, 107
ziyāras 105–106, 107, 209, 211, 213
see also under specific Sufi pilgrims
hajj/ʿumra of
in general 26
etiquettes for 97
repetitive performance of 98n12
social aspects of
practice of khidma 100–101
spiritual achievements 98
travel element 96–97, 102–104
visiting khānqāhs 99–100
visiting tombs of masters 98–99
Sufism
hajj/ʿumra in
in general 49, 92–95
social aspects of 95–101
interest in, after hajj 378
and legal scholarship 107–108
orders in 99–100, 102–104, 208–209
see also under specific orders
Sufyān al-Thawrī 98
Suhrawardī, Abū Najīb 94
Suhrawardī, Shihāb al-Dīn 100
şükür see gratefulness/thankfulness
Sulaymān i, Ottoman Sultan 102
Sunni pilgrims
portrayal of 167–170
see also Sunni-Shiʿi tensions; under specific pilgrims
Sunni-Shiʿi tensions
and hajj/ʿumra 27, 56, 168, 357
in hajj/ʿumra accounts 154–155, 168, 360–362
Sunnism 167–168, 356–357
supererogatory prayers (nawāfil) 305
supervising of hajj/ʿumra
by European colonial powers 59–60, 183, 207
by Sharīfian dynasty 197
see also Saudi pilgrimage governance
supplication prayers see duʿā
sürūr see happiness
Syrian Women Refugees (Ezer) 266n20
tactile experiences see touching/rubbing
Tadhkirat al-awliyāʾ (ʿAṭṭār) 92, 94
Tafsira (Mancebo de Arévalo) 84, 86
Tāj al-Salṭane 173
Tajik language 227, 233
talbiya prayer 6n12, 28, 229, 284–285, 337
ṭaqshiṭas (Moroccan dresses) 277
ṭarīqas (Sufi orders) 99–100, 102–104, 208–209
see also under specific orders
tasbīḥ (string of prayer beads) 397–399
tashwīq (literary genre) 47, 65–66
taste, in hajj/ʿumra experiences 291–293
ṭawāf (circumambulation of the Kaʿba)
in general 6n12, 48, 255
in Dar on dunye (Muhammadiev) 227, 229, 235
dedication to friend 154
in Evliyā Çelebī’s account 123–124
inexplicable experiences 286
in Nābī’s account 124
photographing during 409
physical responses 281
symbolizing umma 24
‘Tawaf’ (smartphone app) 395
tawakkul (reliance on God’s will) 333
Taysh ʿAyāl (tv-series) 23
tears see weeping
technology see digital technology
television 23, 378–379
telling/retelling, of hajj/ʿumra experiences 16, 247–248, 328, 344–348
thawāb (religious merit) 177, 230
al-Thawr caves 81
theory of attainment 396
tobacco, smoking of 107–108, 210
tombs see shrines/tombs/graves
Topkapı Palace 113, 116, 117
totemic object, Kaʿba as 282
touching/rubbing
in hajj/ʿumra experiences 289–291, 399, 415n31
the Kaʿba 256, 289
see also face rubbing; kissing
tourism 8, 317, 327, 409
train voyages 187
see also railroads
tranquillity (ḥużūr) 126, 135
transportation
by air 8, 17, 230
by automobiles/buses 212–213
by caravans see caravans
changes in 8, 11, 138, 156, 183, 187–188
and ṣabr 336–337
by ship see sea voyages
by train 187
see also railroads
travelogues/travel literature
hajj/ʿumra accounts as 51–57
from Iran
in general 138, 161
as compilation of texts 148
core elements of 147–148
educational purpose of 162
from Soviet Union 225, 236
see also hajj/ʿumra accounts
travel/travelling
etiquettes/rules for 51–52, 97, 105
and hajj/ʿumra
in general 317–318, 320
to discover heritage 318–319, 320
in hajj/ʿumra accounts
in general 17, 46, 51–57, 65
by sea see sea voyages
of Shiʿi pilgrims 139, 142, 144, 150
of Sufis 96, 102–104
by train see train voyages
see also transportation
trembling see bodily sensations
‘Tres riḥlas mudéjares’ (Cassasas Canals) 77–78
Tuḥfa al-ʿIrāqayn (Khāqāni Shervāni) 138n1, 145
Tuḥfetü’l-Ḥaremeyn (Nābī) 114, 119–120, 133, 134
see also Nābī, Yūsuf
al-Tujaybī 53
al-Ṭūr, quarantine facilities in 188–191
Turkish pilgrims 344–345
Tursunzade, Mirzo 224
Tweed, Thomas 33
Twitter 369, 411–412
ʿUbaydullāh Khān Ghāzī 102
ʿūd (wood soaked in fragrant oils) 288
Uḥud 128–129
Uḥud, Battle of 305, 425
ʿUmar 81
umma (global Muslim community) 10, 24, 265, 266, 327, 383, 408
ʿumra see hajj/ʿumra
unhygienic conditions see hygiene
Union des Organisations Islamiques de France 319
United Kingdom, Muslims in 334–335
see also British-Pakistani pilgrims
Urdu language 58, 358
Uzbek language 233
Vali Khān 163, 176
van Leeuwen, Richard see Leeuwen, Richard van
Vaqār al-Dowle Esfahāni Kuchak, Sakine Soltān
hajj/ʿumra account of
anti-Arab statements in 170–171
on black people 173–174
husband consenting to hajj 175
sarcastic comments about men in 176
subordination to men in 176
itinerary of 166
Vázquez, Miguel Ángel 13, 17, 74–88, 426
veiling 310, 381
Vernet, Julian 78
Verse of Light 128
videos 376, 414
Vishnepolsky, Sergei 232, 234
visual experiences see sight
vocal practices, in hajj/ʿumra experiences 284–286
Waade, Anne Marit 24
Wahhābism/Wahhābīs
and destruction of Islamic antiquities 63–64, 192–193, 208, 210
extremism of 63–64, 192–193
and hajj/ʿumra 63, 192–197, 198, 210
as legitimation of Saʿūd rule 62–63
Walīallāh, Shāh 58, 92, 98
walking backwards 124, 130, 135
waqfa see wuqūf
weeping
on departure from Prophet’s Mosque 130
in Islam 25
on seeing Kaʿba 4, 20, 24–25, 281, 294
absence of 255, 294
see also sorrow
WhatsApp 376, 399–400, 402, 403, 416, 423
Wiegers, Gerard 76
wife-sharing 226
Wi-Fi access 360, 365, 401, 427
William ii, King of Württemberg 146–147
windmills 152
women
discrimination of 175–176, 341–342, 347–348, 349
European/Europeanized 150–151
fertility of 312
and funerals 29
and knowledge of Islam 306
and modesty 334, 385
pilgrims see female pilgrims
and ṣabr 334–335
as writers of hajj/ʿumra accounts 67
would-be pilgrims see aspiring pilgrims
‘wow’ effect see awe
writers 64–65
wuqūf (‘standing’) 6n12, 48, 49, 207, 229, 308, 338
Yaḥyā Efendī, Zekerīyāzāde 120
Yaʿqub Mirzā-ye Tabrizi
biographical information 139
hajj/ʿumra account of
anti-Sunni statements 154
camel ride 141
compared to
Farhād Mirzā’s account 149–156
Iranian travelogues 148–149
crossing the dessert 142
educational purpose of 141
entering Mecca in 153
erotic interest in young men 142–143
European culture/food 151–152
European/Europeanized women 151
hajj/ʿumra rituals 153
introduction 149
manuscript
illustration in 141, 142
reader’s notes in 139–140
modern technology 152
opening and closing sentences 140
readership of 140, 143, 157–158
sea voyages 150
Suez transit ticket 141
traveling through Caucasus 149–150
itinerary of 139
Yasaw, Ahmet 99n14
yearning see longing
young couples see under Asmae; French pilgrims
al-Zabādī al-Murādī, ʿAbd al-Majīd (1745) 92, 105–108
Zamzam water
and aspiring pilgrims 116
and baraka 22, 292, 415n31
as cure 216
in Dar on dunye (Muhammadiev) 233, 235
and Hājar 49
in hajj/ʿumra accounts 81, 212, 256, 291–292
zāwiyas see Sufi lodges
Zaytūna madrasa 210
Zillinger, Martin 414
ziyāras (visits of shrines)
Abū Bakr’s tomb 81
and baraka 50, 105, 193
al-Burnusī’s tomb 105
Fāṭima’s tomb 81
as part of Sufi hajj itineraries 98–99, 105–106, 107, 209, 211, 213
to Prophet’s tomb see Prophet’s tomb
Sayyida Nafīsa’s tomb 107
al-Shāfiʿī’s tomb 107
as source of shirk 63, 99
ʿUmar’s tomb 81
al-Zujājī, Abū ʿAmr 98n12
Zvezda vostoka (journal) 234
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