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Abstract
In 2016, several fashion houses decided to adopt the ‘see-now-buy-now’ scheme, by which the clothing items displayed on the catwalk are made immediately available for purchase. This has triggered an intense debate among operators and the general public on the nature and possible consequences of such a change in the fashion calendar. While the press has welcomed the formula as revolutionary, Kering Group has strongly opposed it, pointing out that temporal availability kills the luxury dream. In any case, this can be seen as the last phase of a longer process, that of the fashion industry gradually compressing its cycles of production and distribution.
With this backcloth, the chapter aims to provide an analytical overview of the relationship between time and fashion, with a focus on its recent development. Drawing from the extant scholarship on the socially constructed nature of time, the chapter profiles the different temporalities that are clustering in the fashion ‘timescape’. From the ‘neophilia’ linking fashion to ‘present-ness’, the chapter will move to consider the speeded-up reality of the current fashion system, with its dysfunctional approach to novelty. Within this scenario, three major temporal features emerge: a quest for deceleration; the appreciation of the (digital) moment; the multi-dimensional reclamation of the past. All these temporalities account for fashion as the space where cultural stances about time are shaped, negotiated, and practiced.