Tikim: Essays on Philippine Food and Culture


Tikim: Essays on Philippine Food and Culture by Doreen G. Fernandez is a groundbreaking work that introduces readers to the wondrous history of Filipino foodways. First published by Anvil in 1994, Tikim explores the local and global nuances of Philippine cuisine through its people, places, feasts, and flavors.

Doreen Gamboa Fernandez (1934–2002) was a cultural historian, professor, author, and columnist. Her food writing educated and inspired generations of chefs and food enthusiasts in the Philippines and throughout the world. This Brill volume honors and preserves Fernandez’s legacy with a reprinting of Tikim, a foreword by chef and educator Aileen Suzara, and an editor’s preface by historian Catherine Ceniza Choy.

E-Book List price

EUR €165.00USD $198.00

Biographical Note

Doreen Gamboa Fernandez (1934–2002) was a cultural historian, professor, writer, and columnist. She received her Ph.D. in Literature (1976) from Ateneo de Manila University. She is best known for her writing on Filipino food and the theater arts. Catherine Ceniza Choy, Ph.D. (1998), UCLA, is Professor of Ethnic Studies at UC Berkeley. She is the author of Empire of Care: Nursing and Migration in Filipino American History and co-editor of the Brill book series Gendering the Trans-Pacific World. Aileen Suzara, MPH (2015), UC Berkeley, is a chef and educator dedicated to creating healthy and sustainable food systems. Her work celebrates the intersections of social justice, farming, health and cultural revitalization, with an emphasis on the Filipino American diaspora.

Table of contents

Foreword to Reprint
Aileen Suzara
Editor’s Preface for Doreen G. Fernandez, Tikim: Essays on Philippine Food and Culture
Catherine Ceniza Choy

Introduction: Writing about Food: Savor the Word, Swallow the World

Balut to Barbeque: Philippine Street Food
Here’s to Spirited Holidays
Breaking the Fast
Sukang Paombong
Balut, Kamaru, Sawa: What Exotica Do You Eat?
The Lumpia of Silay
Si Sugpo: Prawns in Philippine Lore and Culture
Ang Mahiwagang Nilaga
The Noodles of our (Long) Lives
The Original Pancit Lucban
The Vanishing Scene
New Ways with Old Dishes
Sa Banwa sang Dulce: The Flavors of Negros
A Durian Experience
Mangoes and Maytime Salty and Sour, Bitter and Sweet: Philippine Flavorings

Inside Information: A Tribute to Mothers
On Unperceived Excellences Men in the Kitchen
Alta Cocina Filipina: Has it Arrived?
Kinilaw Artistry in Old Sagay
She Cuts Pastillas Wrappers
The Sweet Taste of Success
The Filipino Kitchen
Restaurants of Yesteryears
The Regional Food Adventure
What’s Cooking?

Food in Philippine Literature
A Cookbook and a Billiard Table
Pasteleria at Reposteria, 1919
Dream Food
Mother Cuisine
Contrary Thoughts of Valentine’s Day
My personal, Communal Christmas
Noche Buena
The Festive Table
Angono, San Clemente, Giants and Water Pistols
Silay, Zarzuelas, and Remembering the Revolution
A Town Bejewelled: Philippine Food Art

The Flavors of Mexico in Philippine: Food and Culture
A Conversation with Fray Juan de Oliver on Drinking and Drunkenness
Beyond Sans Rival: Exploring the French Influence on Philippine Gastronomy
Colonizing the Cuisine: The Politics of Philippine Foodways



All interested in food studies, Philippine Studies, Southeast Asian Studies, Asian American and Asian diaspora studies, cultural history, and gender and women’s studies.

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