The single volume
Encyclopedia of Medieval Dress and Textiles of the British Isles c. 450-1450 is a unique work that intends to bring together in 582 signed articles the latest research from across the range of disciplines which contribute to our knowledge of medieval dress and textiles. There has been a long-standing interest in the subject, which has recently manifested itself in a flowering of research and publications, including activities by the editors of the Encyclopedia: the foundation of DISTAFF (Discussion, Interpretation and Study of Textile Arts, Fabrics and Fashion) as an umbrella organization for the presentation of papers at the major medieval congresses in Kalamazoo and Leeds (Netherton and Owen-Crocker); the establishment of the annual journal
Medieval Clothing and Textiles (Netherton and Owen-Crocker); the Manchester Medieval Textiles Project (Coatsworth and Owen-Crocker); and the AHRC Lexis of Cloth and Clothing Project (Owen-Crocker and Sylvester). There is a clear need for an interdisciplinary reference work which will introduce readers to various sources of evidence, and give clear information about the most recent discoveries and interpretations and bibliographical guidance to readers. The
Encyclopedia of Medieval Dress and Textiles of the British Isles c. 450-1450 contains also over 100 plates and diagrams to illustrate the text. Free sample fascicle available. Also available online as part of
Brill's Medieval Reference Library Online.
Features • Covers materials, techniques and styles, and their changes. • Focuses on the British Isles, but considers comparative material from elsewhere and includes some illustrations taken from continental manuscripts. • Covers secular, ecclesiastical and military dress, its changes over time and the concept of fashion, surviving examples and the names of individual garments and their parts • Investigates techniques of manufacture, the people who produced the goods and the equipment they used. • Looks at weights and measures, trade, guilds, tools, spinning, weaving and stitches. • Examines the sources, archaeological, documentary and artistic. • Considers non-literary documentary sources in articles on wills and inventories, estate management and the Paston Letters, wardrobe accounts • Looks at the treatment of dress and textiles in poetry: riddles, heroic literature and Romance, and poets: Chaucer, Gower, Lydgate, The Pearl Poet, Charles d’Orleans (Fortune Stabilnes) and King James I of Scotland (The Kingis Quair). • Considers: manuscript illumination, stone and wood carving, brass engraving and stained glass as examples. • Includes alternative titles and spellings of medieval words and articles on the naming of cloths and garments, and on surnames and place names derived from cloth production. • Looks at subjects such as cross-dressing; the origin and significance of liturgical colours; the use and significance of gemstones, amber and pearls; the importance of textiles in funerals; horse equipment, tents, ships and the transport of goods; the role of patronage; civil and ecclesiastical prohibitions and rights; religious morality and political philosophy relating to dress; shopping; ingredients and practice for finishing and laundering cloth; and the use of medieval dress and textiles in the present day for Living History (re-enactment and reconstruction).
Gale R. Owen-Crocker is an Anglo-Saxon specialist who enjoys interdisciplinary research, which uses, for example, archaeological evidence to illuminate Old English literature; and art, archaeology, glosses and text (both Latin and English) to explore the issue of Anglo-Saxon dress. She is the co-founder and co-editor of the international journal
Medieval Clothing and Textiles. Her recent books include
King Harold II and the Bayeux Tapestry (2005);
Dress in Anglo-Saxon England: revised and enlarged edition (2004),
The Four Funerals in Beowulf: and the structure of the poem (2000),
Medieval Art: recent perspectives (1998) and
Anglo-Saxon Texts and Contexts (1998).
"...Recommendation: This is a serious, academic work that is fun to dip into. I have learnt so much by going from one entry to another and ending up in subjects I had not expected or even knew existed. This book should be in any academic library that has an interest in medieval European life (in all its aspects), medieval British history, as well as in the libraries of those working in the field of archaeological textiles. It will also appeal to those involved in medieval re-enactments (Living History groups), and film and theatre groups who wish to increase their knowledge and accuracy." Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood in
TRC Library, April 2016 (http://www.trc-leiden.nl/trc/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=452&Itemid=342&lang=en) “a superb reference work …. well-produced color and black-and-white illustrations …. an essential work for scholars of medieval British dress and textiles, as well as for students of dress and material culture in general. And, because costume, jewelry, tapestries, and other aspects of clothing, cloth, and textiles are so important in medieval British writing and culture, the Encyclopedia will be just as important for scholars of medieval British literature and history”, David Elton Gay, Indiana University, in
Journal of Folklore Research, online review posted on September 17, 2013, http://www.indiana.edu/~jofr/review.php?id=1392
Table of contents
Preface Introduction and Timeline List of Maps List of Figures Articles A-Z Index List of Contributors List of Articles Accessories Ælfric’s Colloquy and Glossary Aglet Ailette Aketon Alb Aldhelm Alnage Alnagers Altar Cloth Altar Frontal Amber Amice Animal Fibre Apparel Appliqué Archaeological Textiles Arming Doublets Armour Armour: coif and capados/helmet linings Arms and armour terminology in manuscripts Aventail Badges Bands Bast Baudekin Bayeux Tapestry Bayeux Tapestry: evidence of arms and armour Beads Beaver Fur Beds ante-1100 Beds post-1100 Bell Belt Bend Bequests Bezant Black Prince: achievements of The Black Prince at Canterbury Blackwell Hall London Blanket Bleaching Bliaut Body Garments ante-1100 Body Garments post-1100 Bokasin Bologna Cope Bolt Book of Rights (Lebor na Cert) Books Books: book markers Books: covers Books: curtains Books: embroidered parchment repairs Books: spine lining Boots Botcher Bourrelet Bracer, Archer Braie/Brael Brandea Bras Bras Maunche Brayer Brayette/Brayer Breuddwyd Rhonabwy Brigandine Broadcloth Brocading Brooches: England Buckle Buckram Budge Burel Burl Burnet Buskins Butler-Bowdon Cope Button Cadace Calabre Calendar Camaca Cambric Canterbury Cathedral Canterbury Tales Cappers Caps Cards and Carding of Wool Carpets and Rugs Cat Fur Cattle Tail Hair Caulking and Sealing Chain Mail Chainse Chalon Chapemakers Chaperon Charles d’Orleans ‘Fortune Stabilnes’ Chastity Belts Chasuble Chaucer: career Chaucer: dress Chaucer: soft furnishings Chausses Check Chemise Chichester-Constable Chasuble Church Furniture Cilicium: hair cloth Clare Chasuble Cloak ante-1100 Cloak post-1100 Cloth Cloth of Gold Cloth: dimensions and weights Clothiers Clothworkers Clove Coat Armour Coat of Plates Codpiece Cogware Coif: military and non-military Collections Colour and Weave Effects Colours of Liturgical Vestments and Hangings Coney Conservation of Archaeological Textiles Cope Coral Cordwainers Cornette Cote Cotehardie Cotton Cottons Covering Cowl Crakou Crannog Cross Dressing Crowfoot, Elisabeth Crowfoot, Grace Molly Crown Cuffia/Cuffie Cuir-bouilli Curriers Curtains Cyprus Cywyddau Gofyn a Dioloch Dagging Dalmatic Damask Decorative Techniques Donor Portraits Doublet Drapers Dream of Rhonabwy Dress Accessories Dress and Ethnicity Dress and Gender Dress Fasteners Dublin Duties on Wool and Cloth Dyeing Dyers Ecclesiastical Dress Ecclesiastical Dress post-1100 Effigies and Brasses Ell Emballage Emblems Embroiderers Embroideries ante-1100 Embroidery Enamel Ermine Exchequer Fashion Fasteners Feathers Felbrigge Psalter Embroidered Book Cover Felt Fibre Finger Loop Braiding Finishing Fitch Flax Floor Coverings Footwear Fox Fur Foynes Fraternity Frieze Fringes and Tassels Fripperers Frouncing Fullers Fuller’s Earth Fulling and Fulling Mills Funerals ante-1100 Funerals post-1100 Fur Fustian Gambeson Gamboising Garter ante-1100 Garter post-1100 Gauntlet Gawain Poet Gemstones Genette Gerefa Girdle ante-1100 Girdle post-1100 Girdlers Glosses and Glossaries Glovers Gloves Goat Hair Gold and Silver Metal Thread Gold and Silver Wire Drawing Gore Gorget Goscelin Gower, John Gown Great Wardrobe Gris Guilds: London Guilds: provincial towns Haberdashers Haberget Habit Hair Accessories post-1100 Hairnet Harlots Hat/Hatters Hatters Haubergeon Hauberk Headgear Hearse-cloth Heckle Hemming Hemp Heraldry Heroic Literature Hood Horse Hair Horse Trapper, Musée Cluny, Paris Horse Trappings Hose Houppelande Hourson Hubert Walter Hubert Walter Hurers Iconography and Symbolism on Textiles Inscriptions on Textiles Insignia Jack Jazerant Jewellery Johanna Beverlai Altar Frontlet John Lydgate John of Thanet Jupon Kendal Kermes Kerseys Knitting and Related Non-Woven Structures Laȝamon Lambskin/Sheepskin Lampas Last Latten Laundry Lawn Laws and Prohibitions: cloth regulations Laws and Prohibitions: ecclesiastical Laws and Prohibitions: sumptuary Leather Leathersellers Lebor na Cert Legwrap Leopard Lettice Liber Pontificalis Linen Liripipe Liturgical Textiles ante-1100 Liturgical Textiles post-1100 Livery: company Livery: uniform Llan-Gors Decorated Garment London: archaeology London: trade London: Victoria and Albert Museum Looms Loomweights Luttrell Psalter Lye Lynx Lyric Poetry Maaseik Textiles Mabinogion Mail Maniple Mantle Markets and Fairs Marten Maternity and Nursing Garments Mattress Mediterranean Trade Medlee Mercers Merchant Taylors Metaphor Military Dress Milliners Miniver Mi-parti Mirror Misericords Mistery and ‘Mystery Plays’ Mitre Mittens Monastic Dress Monks Monumental Brasses Mordant Nail Nålebinding Naming of Cloths Naming of Garments in Old English Narrow Wares Necklace Needle Nettle Norfolk Worsteds Northampton Fair Nuns, Convents and Monasteries: the monastic orders and their costumes Officers of the Royal Household Official Dress Opus Opus Anglicanum Order of the Garter Orkney Hood Orphrey Otter Padding Painted and Stamped Cloth Pall Paltok Pampillion Parade and Tournament Sporting Clothing Passementerie Paston Letters Patrons and Patronage Pavilion Pearls Pelican Pendant ante-1100 Pendant post-1100 Pers Personal Names Pew Ends Piece Pienza Cope Pilgrimage Pillow Pin Pinners Pisane Place Names Plate Armour Plume Plunket Point Pokes Political Thought Poots Popel Portraits Pouch post-1100 Pouchmakers Pourpoint Powdering Prayer Mats Purple Purse post-1100 Pursers Purses and Pouches ante-1100 Quilting and Padding Rath Ray Reconstruction Recycling Re-enactment Relic of St. Lebuin Relics of St. Cuthbert Riddles Rifeling Rings Rogart Shirt Romance Roof Bosses Rosary Rothwell Jack Royal Portraits Royal Regalia ante-1100 Royal Regalia post-1100 Russet Sabatons Sable Sack Sacks Saddles Sails Saints Samite Sarpler Sarsenet Satin Say Scabbard Scarlet Scissors Sculpture post-1100 Sculpture: evidence for dress ante-1100, Ireland, Isle of of Man and Scotland Sculpture: evidence for dress, ante-1100, England Sculpture: skeuomorphs of textile techniques, ante- 1100, England Seal Bag Seals (for cloth) and Merchants’ Marks Second Hand Clothing Secular Dress: Anglo-Saxon Secular Dress: Celtic Irish Secular Dress: Celtic Welsh Secular Dress: later Medieval Secular Dress: Viking Selvedge Sendal Sensuality and Sexuality Serges Sewing Sewing: cutting and construction Shearman’s Hook Shearmen Shears Sheet Ship Burial Shirt Shoes Shopping Shroud Shuttle Sign Language Silk in the British Isles Silk Road Silk: sericulture Silkwomen Skinners Sleeve Slickstone Slipper Smock Soap Soft Furnishings and Textiles ante-1100 Soft Furnishings and Textiles post-1100 Spindle Whorl Spinning Spinning Wheels Spinsters Sports Spurs Squirrel Fur Squirrel Robe of Queen Philippa St. Boniface St. Botolph’s Fair, Boston St. Giles Fair, Winchester St. Ives Fair St. Thomas Becket: life and textile relics Stamford Fair Stitches: embroidered seams and line stitches Stitches: filling stitches and other embroidery techniques Stole Stone Stourbridge Fair Straits/Dozens Stranling Stripes Surcote/Sucot(e) Surviving Medieval Textiles of the British Isles Syon Cope Table Linen Tablet-weave Taffeta Tailors Tapestry Tapicers Tartarin Tax Tent Maker/Pavilioner Tenter Tenterhook Tents ante-1100 Tents post-1100 Textile Armour Textile Production in York The English Wool Trade 1250–1330 The Kingis Quair The Pearl Poet The Scottish Wool Trade 1250–1450 Thong Tinsel Tippet Tiretaine Tissue Tod Tools post-1100 Tools: archaeological evidence ante-1100, England and Scotland Tools: archaeological evidence ante-1100, Ireland Torque Towns and their Products Trade and Craft Guilds, Scotland Trade in Irish Cloth Trade in Textiles, Arms and Armour, England 1250–1450 Trade in Welsh Cloth Tuckers Tunic Turnshoe Underwear: a historical overview Urine Vair Vambrace at British Museum London Vegetable Fibre Veil Velvet Verge Vestments Vestments: vestments of the Anglo-Saxon Church Voider Voluper Wadmal Wall Covering Wall Paintings Waterford Weapons as Items of Dress Weavers Weaving Weaving Batten Weights and Measures Welsh Begging Poems Wey Whitawyers Wiliam Langland: Piers Plowman Wills and Inventories ante-1100 Wills and Inventories post-1100 Wimple Winder Wire Drawing Wiredrawers Woad Wood Carving Wool Comb Wool Merchants Wool: processing Wool: sheep Wool: types Woolbroggers Woollens Woolsack Worsted Wrappings Yard
Students of medieval material culture, art, theater, design and economic history, metropolitan and industrial studies, politics, archaeology, medieval literature, arms and armour, women's history; museums, art, galleries, departments of archaeology, art history, art institutes.